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NORTON'S HAND-BOOK 



TO 



EUROPE; 



OR, 



HOW TO TRAVEL 



IN THE 



OLD W" ORLD 



BY J. H, SIDDONS. 




gUfo-gnrk: 

CHARLES B. NORTON, 

§ s t o n : 

CROSBY, NICHOLS, LEE & CO. 

117 Washington-Street. 

1860. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, 

BY CHARLES B. NORTON, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
• Southern District of New-York. 



PREFACE. 



Nothing is more true than that Travel is one 
of the purest and most profitable enjoyments of 
which an intelligent human being can partake, 
and no nation is more thoroughly imbued with 
the force of this truism than the American. Go 
into what part of the Old "World you will, you 
cannot fail to encounter the energetic, enterpris- 
ing adventurer from the New World. Discard- 
ing for a while the natural desire to accumulate 
wealth, you find him in most instances honestly 
intent upon the collection of knowledge. His 
eyes are everywhere ; his ears are open ; his note- 
book rapidly becomes the storehouse of facts ; his 
pencil is as active as his pen, and if he sometimes 
allows too much force to first impulses it is be- 
cause he either has not, or does not allow himself, 
time to correct them by later and more profound 
observation. In this, however, he only sins in 



PREFACE. 



common with the majority of European travellers 
who visit the " United States," and the cause is 
the same in both cases — they do not make the 
best use of the leisure and money at their com- 
mand. Anxious, as the vulgar phrase runs, to 
do everything, from a restaurant in a French 
provincial town to the source of the Rhine, the 
summit of Mont Blanc, and the Pyramids, or the 
" Heart of the Andes," they consume in profitless 
frivolities the hours that might be advantage- 
ously devoted to a careful examination of objects 
of interest and importance. In too many cases 
the tourist might safely follow the advice given 
by Sheridan to his son, and " say they had been" 
to such and such a place without the trouble of 
going there. It may be. taken as a rule that 
ponderous guide-books and hand-books are manu- 
factured on the razor vender's principle — " to sell" 
and of more than one half of the places to which 
the bewildered reader's attention is directed, it 
may be predicated that, as Vhomme blase says, 
" there is nothing in them." , 

It is to be lamented that the claims of business, 
the difficulties of travelling in the winter, and 



PREFACE. 5 

the desagremens of the Atlantic passage until the 
month of May sets in, should deprive the greater 
portion of American travellers of the opportunity 
of seeing the cities of London and Paris when 
they put on their best attire. In April, May, and 
June, " the season" of the court and fashion of 
these two great metropolitan towns is compre- 
hended. Then, all that Art and Science can 
produce, Luxury suggest, or Wealth command, 
may be found concentrated within a radius of 
six or seven miles. The various painting and 
sculpture galleries are open ; the British Houses 
of Parliament, and the Legislative Assembly of 
France are sitting ; the opera-houses, the thea- 
tres and concert-rooms, display all the available 
talent in the two empires. In London, the great 
religious gatherings at Exeter Hall then receive 
authentic reports of the progress of Missionary 
labor abroad ; popular orators and lecturers from 
all parts of the continent of Europe are heard on 
the mighty questions which seek the sympathy 
of free nations ; great military reviews in the 
Champ de Mars and at Aldershott and "Woolwich 
" come off," and occasionally a large fleet of men- 



6 PREFACE. 

of- war is assembled at Portsmouth or at Cher- 
bourg to gratify the national pride and give as- 
surance of the efficient state of " preparation" in 
which the states of France and England are re- 
spectively to be found. Finally, — perhaps, in the 
estimation of some readers, we should have said, 
primarily, — at that particular period of the year 
some of the sovereigns and the great political and 
literary celebrities of Europe may more easily 
and frequently be seen, and the best opportunity 
is afforded to the visiter of beholding the blaze of 
feminine beauty and elegance for which England 
and France are so celebrated. 

Apart, however, from these attractions, power- 
ful though they unquestionably be, there is very 
much to be seen and studied, and treasured in the 
memory, during the four or five months which 
business-like America allows herself for the trip 
to the Old World ; much, indeed, that would not 
be properly seen if the attention were engrossed 
by the brilliant sights which the two capitals 
offer in the spring of the year. But even for this 
portion of the attractions the time is correspond- 
ingly short, unless it be properly and rigidly 
economized. 



PREFACE. 7 

> 

It is with the view of enabling the tourist to 
make the most of his leisure — to render almost 
every momenta matter of delightful recreation 
and ultimate profit — that this Guide has been un- 
dertaken. The experience of years in travelling 
over the greater part of the Old World, and the 
results of diligent inquiry into the latest changes 
and improvements in all that concerns locomo- 
tion, hotel accommodations, and the peculiar 
" sights'' of the chief places of interest, have been 
brought to the task. It may be accepted as a 
rule that the very natural passion for imitating in 
the Union all that is good and applicable in 
Europe has detached from the civilized parts of 
the Old World much of the " individuality" which 
formerly belonged to them. There are hotels in 
New-York, Philadelphia, Boston, etc., which no 
hotels on the European continent can approach 
for comfort, elegance, and an abundant table. 
In America the sea-board cities have their restau- 
ants, stores, and theatres which, in point of splen- 
dor, wealth, accommodation and talent, are un- 
approachable in London, and not often exceeded 
elsewhere. There are some educational estab 



8 PREFACE. 

lishments in the United States which will safely 
bear a comparison with the best in Europe, and 
the military college at West Point has no rival 
except in France and Austria. There are not 
many private houses in the great cities of the 
Eastern hemisphere which exceed in the appli- 
ances of life, and even in its elegances, the abode? 
of the wealthier classes of the Western. These 
facts are confidently stated that the traveller may 
not waste his hours in fruitless investigations, or 
in taking that superficial view of things which 
fails to leave an impression even on the most 
sensitive minds. It is not meant to assert that 
certain objects are not worth seeing at all be- 
cause they cannot be diligently examined. There 
are many things in Europe which persons of 
quick apprehension can realize at a glance, 
and which, at all events, serve as pleasant sou- 
venirs when they have returned to their homes. 
Facts and objects photographed on the mental 
retina often form better illustrations of books 
than the most carefulengravings. 

In a word, the tourist must accept the follow- 
ing pages as an honest index to all that worthily 
invites attention in the accessible parts of the Old 



PREFACE. 9 

World, and it will be for him or her, according to 
the time and means at disposal, to linger over 
those scenes, institutions, galleries, and palaces, 
which present the greatest attractions, or demand 
the most patient investigation. The Crystal 
Palace at Sydenham, the British Museum, the 
Louvre, the palace of Versailles, the galleries of 
Florence, Rome, Naples, Madrid, Dresden, and 
Munich, may each be done (after a fashion) in a 
day. It is no exaggeration on the other hand 
to affirm that some of them may pleasantly en- 
gage the visiter for weeks together, and still con- 
tain some gem that vigilant curiosity and diligent 
research will have overlooked — so vast is the accu- 
mulation of works of art in a land whose history 
stretches back into centuries, and whose natives 

love to treasure the records of the past. 

1* 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



SEC TION THE FIRST. 

GENERAL HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS. 

Money — Passports — Letters of Introduction — Affability of 
Manner — Costume — How to 6ave Time in the Choice of 
Routes to London 



SECTION THE SECOND. 

ENGLAND AND TTALES. 

15/ Route. — Liverpool — Manchester — Chester — North 
"Wales — Shrewsbury — Birmingham — "Warwick — Strat- 
ford-on-Avon — Leamington — Kenilworth — Oxford — 
"Windsor — London 

2d Route. — Southampton — Netley Abbey — The Isle of 
"Wight — Portsmouth — Winchester — Brighton — London. 

ENGLAND AND IRELAND. 

Zd Route. — Gal way — Athlone — Mullingar — Dublin — Holy- 
head—Beaumaris — Liverpool, etc. (as above) 



CONTENTS. 1 1 

OR, 

By way of Gal way — Ennis — Limerick — Mallow — Killar- 

ney — Cork — Queenstown — Liverpool, etc., as above 

(The traveller coming by way of Liverpool or South- 
ampton, can return by way of Ireland, so as to include 
as much as possible in the trip.) 
4th Route. — Glasgow — (reversing the tour through Sect- 
land) — London 

LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

The Houses of Parliament — the Palaces — the Museums 
and Picture Galleries — the Theatres — the Public 
Buildings — the Courts of Law — the Clubs — the 
Churches — Hyde Park — Windsor Castle and Park — 
Virginia Water — Hampton Court — Richmond — the 
Crystal Palace at Sydenham — Woolwich Arsenal and 
Model Room — The Dockyard — Artillery Reviews — 
Greenwich Hospital and Park — A White Bait Dinner — 
Pic Nics — the Queen's Drawing-room 

SECTION THE THIRD. 

THE NORTH OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 

London — Cambridge —Peterborough — York — Newcastle 
— Edinburgh — Melrose and Abbotsford — Peebles — Ros- 
lin — Stirling — the Trosachs — Loch Katrine — Loch Lo- 
mond — Glasgow — Carlisle — the Lakes — Lancaster — 
Leeds — Sheffield — Derby — Chatsworth — Leicester — 
Northampton — London 

SECTION THE FOURTH. 
THE CONTINENTAL TOUR. 

FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 

1st Route. — London — Folkestone — Boulogne — Amiens — 
Paris 



12 CONTENTS. 

2d Route. — London — Dover — Calais — Lille — Douai — Ab- 
beville— Amiens — Paris 

3d Route. — London — New Haven — Dieppe — Rouen — 
Paris 

4th Route. — Dover — Ostend — Antwerp — Ghent — Brussels 

— "Waterloo — Paris 

(Persons arriving at Havre from America take the 3d 
Route, given above, from Rouen to Paris.) 

PARIS AND THE ENVIRONS. 

Hotels — Lodgings — Public Edifices — the Louvre — the 
Tuileries, Bois de Boulogne, and the Gardens — the Ho- 
tel des Invalides, the Madeleine, and Notre Dame — the 
Champs Elysees — the Operas and Theatres — the Artil- 
lery Museum — the Luxembourg — Versailles, St. Cloud, 
St. Germains, and Fontainebleau 

ITALY. 

1st Route. — Paris — Auxerre, Dijon, Neufchatel, Lausanne, 
Geneva, Martigny, the Alps, the Great St. Bernard, 
Lakes Magrgiore and Como, Milan, Parma, Modena, 
Florence, Rome, Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii, etc 

2d Route. — (returning) — Naples, Rome, Ancona, Rimini, 
Bologna, Mantua, Verona, Venice — thence to 

AUSTRIA. 

Laibach, Gratz, Glognitz, Vienna, Presburg, Vienna 
(again), Linz 

(Here the traveller may go N. E. to Russia, or West 
to) 

BAVARIA AND SWITZERLAND. 

Linz, Salsburg, Munich, Augsburg, Ulm, Lake Constance, 
Zurich, Bale, Mulhausen, Strasbourg 



CONTENTS. 13 

THE RHINE AND HOLLAND. 

Strasbourg — Manheim — Mayence — Coblent z — Bonn — 
Cologne — Arnheim — Utrecht — Rotterdam — the Hague 
— Amsterdam, crossing to London or any other port. . . 

SECTION THE FIFTH. 

THE MEDITERRANEAN TOUR. 

Paris — Dijon — Lyons — Marseilles — Malta — Alexandria, 
Cairo, the Nile, the Pyramids, Temples, and Ruins in 
Upper Egypt — Athens — Constantinople 

RUSSIA AND PRUSSIA. 

Constantinople, Odessa, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Konigs- 

berg, Berlin, Brunswick, Hanover, Bremen 

(Persons going from New- York to Bremen can re- 
verse the tour.) 

PORTUGAL AND SPAIN. 

1st Route. — By Steamer from Southampton — Oporto — 

Lisbon — Cadiz — Gibraltar — Algiers — Morocco 

(Thence return by reversing the following route.) 

2d Route, — By Land : — Paris — Bayonne — the Pyrenees — 
Vittoria — Burgos — Salamanca — Valladolid — Madrid- 
Cordova — Seville — Granada — Gibraltar — Algiers 

SECTION THE SIXTH. 
Ireland on the Return Route 



14 CONTENTS. 

SECTION THE SEVENTH. 
RANDOM TRAVEL, 

Comprising such points of general interest as are not in the 
beaten track, but are still worthy of a visit from those having 
time and means to spare. These trips' will include many of the 
retired towns and pleasant villages in England and Wales ; also, 
Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland ; together with points 
of interest in Poland, Bohemia, Italy, and the "East, which have 
not been referred to heretofore. 

The concluding chapter will comprise 

SECTION THE EIGHTH. 
TRAVELS OF A POOR YOUNG MAN, 

OR, 

A YEAR IN EUROPE FOR $500. 

This chapter is from actual experipnce and observation, and 
will be found of real value, proving, as it does, that with self- 
denial, and a good constitution, all Europe can be seen 
thoroughly, at a less expense than the cost of living in New- 
York for the same period. 

A COMPREHENSIVE INDEX 
Will be added, as a key to everything of interest in the work. 



$tttiw t\u JtriSt. 

GENERAL HINTS. 

Money— Passports- -Letters of Introduction— Affability of Manners— Costume 
How to save Time and Money in the Choice of Routes to London. 

IF money be necessary to an American travelling in 
his own country, it is more than necessary to him 
in Europe — it is indispensable. You cannot stir a mile 
in any part of the Old World unless you are prepared 
to pay your way. But, in respect to the quantity of 
the circulating medium essential to a traveller, opin- 
ions must very much differ. Persons accustomed to a 
high style of living at home interpret " luxuries" to 
mean " necessities," while he who has been used to a 
simplicity of habit can minimize his wants to suit his 
means. It may, however, be taken as a fact, that a 
stranger cannot exist at hotels in any part of Great 
Britain or the European continent on less than one 
pound (five dollars) per diem ; and if to this be added 
the general travelling expenses — the railroad, steam- 
boat, omnibus, fly, cab, or carriage, with all the inci- 
dental charges of porters, newspapers, " accidental" 
assurance, refreshments, fees to guides, and so forth 
— it will be found that ten dollars a day is not in ex- 
cess of necessity. It may be said that, when a person 
is stationary in a town he is not spending money on 
locomotion. This is true to a certain extent ; but, on 



16 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

the other hand, the cost of sight- seeing within a town 
absorbs as much money as the rail, the steamer, etc., 
away from it. You cannot be on your legs all day in 
going from museum to gallery, gallery to palace, and 
palace to theatre. A cab or a carriage thus becomes 
indispensable ; and to this must be added the price of 
the admissions to the various places of entertainment. 
Paris offers many gratis attractions to the stranger, on 
the simple exhibition of his passport. In London, on 
the contrary, the doors of public places are, with rare 
exceptions, closed against the visitor who is not pre- 
pared to open them with a silver key. Therefore, 
let every American, crossing the Atlantic, provide 
himself with as much money as will enable him to 
spend ten dollars a day for every day he purposes to 
pass in the Old World, and as much more as will pay 
his return passage, and enable him to make a few pur- 
chases. In round figures, we should say that from 
1,800 to 2,000 dollars would meet all the charges to 
which a single man could possibly be exposed during a 
four months' pleasure-trip to Europe and back, includ- 
ing therein the cost of his passage to and fro. With 
rigid economy and some self-denial, it may be accom- 
plished for 1,500 dollars.. If the traveller be accom- 
panied by his wife, nearly double the estimated sum 
will be required. In all this we refer to the most ex- 
pensive mode of travelling. A person who has but 
five hundred dollars, may go to Europe, see much, and 
return home ; but he must make up his mind to some 
privation and to the use of his legs where others of 
larger means would employ vehicles. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 17 

To guard against the possibility of the failure of the 
bankers, merchants, or agents, on whom bills of ex- 
change may be drawn — to protect himself from the 
risks attending informalities, the loss of a desk or 
pocket-book containing bills or circular letters of credit, 
or the omissions cf American friends to make timely 
remittances — it would be very advisable that the trav- 
eller should provide himself with English sovereigns, to 
the extent of five or six hundred dollars, before he quits 
the United States, even though he may lose a few cents 
in the operation. He will get back the difference of ex- 
change when he comes to vend his sovereigns on the 
continent. Those coins bear a premium out of England. 

Every intending traveller will take care to be pro- 
vided with a passport from his own government. It 
may be useful even in England ; it is imperative else- 
where. Having the continent of Europe in view, 
Americans must get the vise of the French consul at 
their port of departure, for which two dollars is paya- 
ble. Little store need be set by letters of introduction ; 
their value depends upon so many circumstances. If 
addressed by one eminent individual to another emi- 
nent individual, strongly recommending the bearer to 
attention, they may be serviceable in procuring for the 
latter admission into circles which might otherwise be 
found impenetrable. But, generally speaking, such 
credentials are hardly useful even as soup-tickets. If 
the recipient be not very intimate with the writer of 
the letter, he is likely to regard the introduction as a 
bore, imposing upon himself or his family the obliga- 
tion of showing courtesies to a stranger, at a time when 

2* 



18 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

it may be very inconvenient to him or them to do so. 
Moreover, the bearer of the letter may not unfre- 
quently find himself in the humiliating position of 
being tolerated less for his own sake than for that of 
the person who ventured upon the introduction. No 
— let the American trust more to the force of his own 
address, and the occasional contact incidental to travel, 
for the formation of pleasant acquaintances. An inti- 
macy will often be established in the course of a few 
hours' journey, or a few hours' passage, of a more 
substantial, and enduring, and profitable character, 
than may be achieved through the artificial medium of 
a " letter of introduction. " What Queen Elizabeth is 
alleged to have said of the recommendatory character 
of " a good face," is of great force among the impres- 
sible and amiable middle classes in Europe ; and 
better even than the " good face" is the pleasant man- 
ner, the unaffected disposition to be satisfied, the 
anxiety to obtain, and the readiness to communicate, 
information. Keserve and taciturnity must be scat- 
tered to the winds the moment a person leaves home 
to seek knowledge and agreeable intercourse abroad. 
Let not the apprehension of a rebuff deter the travel- 
ler from asking questions of any fellow-traveller — 
be that individual a gentleman or a lady — upon mat- 
ters of general interest. The cliances are that, in nine 
cases out often, he will receive courteous replies and 
ready information — the more promptly and cordially, 
perhaps, if he proclaims himself an American making 
a first tour in the gratification of a laudable curiosity. 
There is a natural desire, among people of all civilized 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. IV 

countries, to create favorable impressions on the minds 
of foreigners ; and many, on discovering lhat they are 
communicating with persons of education and good- 
breeding, will tender an invitation to their dwellings 
or volunteer to become the cicerones of the stranger. 
The exchange of friendly words, and the earnest and 
truthful expression of a desire for further acquaintance- 
ship, is an every-day occurrence in Great Britain and 
France. 

With the purpose of making the best possible ap 
pearance on his arrival in England, an American 
would be likely to give his tailor, his hatter and boot- 
maker, large orders for clothes, before his departure. 
This would be a costly mistake. There is a difference 
in the general exterior of foreigners and Englishmen. 
It is particularly observable in the hats and the cut of 
the coat and trowsers of gentlemen, and the colors of 
the dresses worn by the ladies. Honorable as it may 
be to the American character to desire to appear to be 
" American," and nothing else, it can be no object of 
ambition with a native of the United States to be 
mistaken for a native of France, Germany, Spain, or 
Italy. Yet this confusion of identity would perpetu- 
ally arise in Europe, and often to the detriment of the 
traveller. Hence it is very advisable that the slight- 
est singularity should, if possible, be avoided, and this 
is be«t accomplished by the adoption of the costume 
most in vogue at the time of the stranger's arrival at 
Liverpool or Southampton. Let, then, the tourist 
take no more than one or two suits of clothes with him 
on board the steamer leaving America — clothes that 



20 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

he has been in the habit of wearing for some time, so 
that on reaching his destination he can give them 
away to the steward or any one of the servants who 
has been attentive to him during the voyage. The 
same advice is offered to the ladies. For once in a 
way they would do well to abjure the competition 
which is said to be a feature of their shore life, and to 
wear but two or three serviceable dresses and a bon- 
net or hood. The broad straw hat, however agreeable 
as a protection from the sun's rays, is an awkward 
article of equipment on board ship, and stands a fair 
chance of being carried off the head of the wearer by 
sudden gusts of wind. One portmanteau and a carpet- 
bag will suffice for all the articles of clothing required 
during the trip, and a trunk or two, sent below, may 
contain everything that is needful in Europe. It 
should be borne in mind that much baggage is a se- 
rious inconvenience on a tour — liable to damage, liable 
to loss, and always a subject of anxiety and cost. 

It has become almost a general rule with American 
travellers, the moment they land at Liverpool or 
Southampton, to hurry up to London, stopping, per- 
haps, a day at Manchester or Birmingham, and estab- 
lishing themselves at one of those hotels to which 
their countrymen are most accustomed to resort. 
When the claims of business render this step impera- 
tive, it would be unwise to adopt any other course ; 
but if the time of the tourist is his own, and nothing 
but pleasure has wooed him across the Atlantic, the 
most prudent step he could take would be to make the 
port of arrival the starting point for one of those little 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 21 

trips which he will sooner or later feel it incumbent 
upon him to take, and which can be more satisfacto- 
rily effected in the summer than at any later period. 
If London is visited in the first instance, the railway 
trip from Liverpool, Southampton, or Gal way, will 
have to be repeated " back again," in order to reach 
the places which may be better grasped at once, or 
visited en route to the metropolis. For instance, when 
at Southampton, after an hour's journey to Netley 
Abbey, you can run over to the Isle of Wight, and 
return thence to Portsmouth, and see the arsenal, 
dockyards, and some -of the largest men-of-war, in- 
cluding the old " Victory," Nelson's last flag-ship. 
Should you arrive at Liverpool, you have the oppor- 
tunity (after a day or two passed in that flourishing 
city itself) of going to Chester, seeing part of beautiful 
North Wales ; thence returning through Warwick- 
shire, hallowed as the scene of Shakespeare's early 
days, memorable as the locality of Scott's "Kenil- 
worth," and renowned for the fine old castle of War- 
wick and the exquisite scenery by which it is sur- 
rounded. On the same principle of action, should 
circumstances induce the traveller to select the Galway 
line, he would do well to take advantage of his being 
in Ireland, to go first to the lakes of Killarney, thence 
to Dublin — a very agreeable and interesting city — 
cross over to Liverpool, and from that point make the 
trip suggested above. That u time is money," is an 
admitted doctrine among commercial men ; but, with 
the tourist w T hose leisure is limited, time is more than 
money, for money cannot purchase the time lost in 
fruitless journeys. 



22 Norton's uand-book to eueope ; 



gtctim t%t jfrronl 



let Route — Arrival at Liverpool — Custom-house Officers — Hotel Charges and 
Hotel life — Route to London by way of Chester, Bangor, North Wales, 
Manchester, Birmingham, Leamington, Kenil worth, Stratford upon Avon, 

Oxford, Windsor — London. 2d Route Arrival at Southampton — Netley 

Abbey — The Isle of Wight — Portsmouth and Spithead — Brighton — Lon- 
don. 3d Route. — Arrival at Galway — Dublin— Cork — Lakes of Killarney 
— Holyhead or Liverpool — Chester, etc. 4th Route. — Glasgow and Scot- 
land generally. — London Attractions fully described — London Life and 
Usages — Excursions to the Environs — the Crystal Palace — Hampton 

Court — Richmond — Woolwich — Greenwich Trip to Scotland, via the 

Eastern and Northern Counties — Cambridge — Peterborough — Newcastle — 
Edinburg — Peebles — Melrose — Abbotsford — Stirling Castle — Lochs Katrine 
and Lomond — Glasgow to Clyde. — Return to London via Carlisle and the 
Lakes — Leeds — Sheffield — Nottingham — Derby — Chatsworth— Northamp- 
ton — London. 

FIRST ROUTE TO LONDON 

LIVERPOOL. 

AS in nine cases out of ten Liverpool is the first 
port in England reached by vessels sailing or 
steaming from America, it claims primary notice. 
We suppose our vessel to be approaching the Mersey 
from the Irish channel. 

Be prepared for a minute and rather rough inspec- 
tion of the luggage by the gentlemen who have the in- 
terest of the British revenue in charge. They are no 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WORLD. 23 

respecters of other persons' property, and will derange 
the most costly and delicate articles of attire in their 
vigorous search after cigars, tobacco, reprints of 
English books, and other contraband wares. Let 
everything be packed before embarkation with special 
reference to the unwelcome visitation of the. custom- 
house officers. 

Arrived at Liverpool, land immediately, engage a 
cab or carriage, of which there is always a large num- 
ber plying for hire, and proceed to the Adelphi hotel, 
the Waterloo, or the Stork. The Adelphi is the most 
capacious, offers the greatest variety of accommoda- 
tion, and costs no more than the others. You pay 
two shillings (English) for a breakfast, of which the 
only elements are tea or coffee, with bread and butter : 
an additional sixpence insures two boiled eggs, or cold 
meat, fish, fried eggs and ham, or bacon. 

This is the breakfast rule all over England. If there 
be any difference in the cost, it is only to the extent of 
a sixpence. The smaller the inns — the less important 
tke towns — the slighter the charge, and the more 
abundant the fare. 

Dinner, consisting of fish or soup, a joint of meat, 
pudding, or bread and cheese, costs about two shillings 
and sixpence to three shillings, to which add the ex- 
pense of whatever beer, wine, or spirits you may take. 
Dinner is served at any hour after 1 p. M. in the coffee- 
room, unless the visitor prefers dining in his own pri- 
vate sitting-apartment, if he has one. 

Tea and coffee in the evening are upon the same scale 
as breakfast ; and the charge for supper is regulated 
bv what it may consist of. 



24 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

The charge for a bed-room for a single man is two 
shillings and sixpence. A room for two persons gen- 
erally costs from three and sixpence to four shillings ; 
and a private sitting-room is unavoidable, if there be a 
lady in the case, for scarcely anywhere in England are 
there tables d'hote, and ladies rarely find admission into 
coffee-rooms. Wax candles, if needed, and fires, are 
charged extra. 

As soon as the traveller is established at a hotel, and 
feels inclined to move about, let him send for a cab. 
Drive, first, to the Docks — the pride of Liverpool — 
unless he should have seen enough of them on his 
landing to satisfy curiosity. Huskisson's, Prince's, 
the Queen's, and the Brunswick, are the largest. 
Then go to the Exchange, and St. George's Hall — 
the former boasts a singular monument to the memory 
of Lord Nelson, the latter is one of the handsomest 
edifices in Europe, and, like other halls, is either 
adapted to grand musical fetes or oratorical displays. 
The organ is unrivalled. A drive through the streets, 
and a ferry over to Birkenhead — a rapidly rising town 
on the opposite side of the river Mersey — will suffice 
to convey a good and lasting impression of the main 
features of the principal seaport town in England. It 
is a sheer waste of time to go to the theatres, the Bo- 
tanical, and Zoological gardens. They are very poor 
imitations of those which London boasts, and which 
are yet in store for the traveller. 

When about to leave the hotel, it will be well to 
despatch to the care of some hotel keeper in London 
the bulk of the baggage. Place in a portmanteau a 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 25 

supply for four or five days ; call for the hotel bill, and 
give a small gratuity (sixpence) to the waiter or 
u boots'* who brings you a cab — and your lady may 
do as much by the chambermaid. u Attendance 1 ' is 
usually charged for in the hotel bills at the rate of 
threepence each meal — and it is a much more satis- 
factory mode of paying servants than the optional 
method in vogue in some few inns, where domestics are 
dissatisfied and insolent if paid too little, and syco- 
phantic and exacting (in future cases) if paid too 
much. 

MANCHESTER. 

Enter the cab, and drive to the Manchester rail- 
way terminus, if you desire to visit a town renowned 
for its manufactures, its bustle, and smoke. Man- 
chester is the Pittsburg of England. It is unsightly, 
and destitute of architectural beauty and antiquity. 
The proprietors of mills are very jealous of the ad- 
mission of strangers ; but a letter of introduction, or 
a call upon any one of the cotton spinners will insure, 
to an American, instant admission and courteous ex- 
planation. Opportunity is thus afforded of compari- 
son, the offspring of improvement. Manchester is 
reached in less than one hour, and the fare is, 1st class, 
five shillings ;* 2d class, four shillings ; 3d class, two 
shillings and sevenpence halfpenny. Should the 
weather be fine, the second class is as desirable as the 

* The reader will be good enough to bear in mind that when this coin 
is spoken of it refers to English shillings, which are double the value 
of the American coin. n 



26 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

first. The best hotels are the Albion and the Queen's. 
The charges correspond with those at Liverpool. 

A few hours will exhaust Manchester. Then pro- 
ceed to the Western Railway office and take a ticket 
for 

CHESTER, 

which is reached in about two hours at a cost of ten 
shillings, first class- 
There is no mistake now about your being in the 
Old World. Perhaps there is not a town in all 
Great Britain and Ireland which so decidedly pro- 
claims its antiquity as Chester. Venerable walls and 
crumbling towers, ancient streets and houses, rickety 
churches, moss-grown and mouldy, announce that in 
spite of the destroying hand of Time, the ruthless as- 
saults of Henry the Eighth and the Puritans, the inno- 
vations of modern taste, and the demands of the age 
for improvement in comfort, convenience, and archi- 
tecture, there is yet much left which belonged to the 
sixteenth — aye, and the fifteenth, fourteenth, and 
thirteenth centuries. The monks who flourished be- 
fore "bluff King Hal" melted their plate, chose pleas- 
ant places for their monasteries and abbeys ; but no- 
where did they find a more picturesque locality than 
Chester. * The city rises in the midst of a green vale, 
and all around it is mountain, woodland, and verdant 
plain. It is surrounded with walls, built for purposes 
of defence upward of two hundred years ago. The 
earnest loyalty of the inhabitants led to a stubborn re- 
sistance when the Parliamentarian army attacked the 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 27 

town garrisoned by the king's troops in 1643, and it 
was not until the beginning of 1646 that the place 
surrendered to Cromwell's soldiers. 

A walk along a portion of the ramparts reveals a 
beautiful prospect. Immediately beneath the walls is 
the race-course. The Chester races take place in the 
summer time, and being patronized by the nobility 
and gentry of Cheshire, and the neighboring counties, 
will afford a delightful recreation and an interesting 
sight to the tourist. The race for the " Chester Cup" 
is one of the great sporting events in England. 

The objects of interest within the town, are, — next 
to the ancient houses — the remnant of the old East 
gate, the Quaker's Meeting-house, where William 
Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was once heard 
holding forth in the presence of King James II, the 
Cathedral, St. Mary's church, the Roman Hypocaust, 
or sweating bath, close to the Feathers hotel, and— if 
it is intended to remain to dine, or sleep — the King's 
Head Inn. This latter is recommended because it is 
old-fashioned and peculiarly comfortable. Differing 
from the modern hotels in everything but the excel- 
lence of the fare, it offers novelty to the traveller in 
its antiquity. 

The attention which Chester Cathedral claims, 
must depend upon rne taste of the tourist. It is but 
360 years old — that is to say, 360 years have elapsed 
since it was completed, for no one can say when it 
was begun — and it possesses all the features of the 
other cathedrals in England. If antiquities of this 



28 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

kind are -the passion of the visiter, he will do well to 
purchase a guide to the Cathedral and city, the best 
of which is Catherall's, of Eastgate Row, and examine 
the structure and the memorials of the dead with 
care ; but if he intends to be satisfied with a glimpse 
at cathedral architecture generally, an hour's visit 
to Chester Cathedral will render unnecessary the 
consumption of time in similar edifices elsewhere, for 
it is a- type of the rest. Here are windows of deli- 
cate tracery, filled with scriptural designs in rich 
stained glass ; a massive stone screen, Gothic arches of 
ancient oak, stalls canopied by curious carvings of the 
same material, a stone pulpit, a throne, and images 
of saints in stone, side chapels, tombs, and novel 
tablets, dedicated to comparatively modern celebrities. 
Neither more nor less thaa these objects is to be seen 
at York, Eiy, Gloucester, Salisbury, Peterborough, or 
Canterbury ; Westminster and St, Paul's, in London, 
form exceptions of which we shall speak hereafter. 

After a glance at Chester, it will be advisable to 
engage a boat, and run up the river Dee (the bank? 
of which are singularly picturesque ) to Eaton Hall, 
the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Westminster, 
four miles from Chester. There is no country man- 
sion in Great Britain to vie in size and splendor with 
this gorgeous palace, the property of the richest of 
the wealthy families of the British aristocracy. Ar- 
riving at Baton Lodge, quit the barge, and go up to 
the mansion through the Park, admiring, as you can- 
not fail to do, the glorious avenue of ancestral trees. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 29 

Previous to the trip, it will be indispensable to pro- 
cure tickets of admission at Catherali's, for the Mar- 
quis exacts payment from visiters, and the proceeds 
are applied to a charitable fund. The prices of the 
tickets are, to the house only, 2 shillings for one per- 
son, 5s. for three persons, 7s. Cd. for five persons. 
Admission to the gardens is, for the same number of 
persons. Is. 6d., 3s., and 5s. Thus a saving is 
effected by clubbing to visit the place. Eaton Hall 
may be visited by foreigners on Mondays, Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays, and Thursdays, of June, July, and 
August. 

The attractions of the Hall are manifold. It is a 
modern edifice, having been begun in 1804, and only 
completed, after numerous alterations, in 1850. The 
architect has contrived to combine the light with the 
massive in its architectural details. The entire 
building is nearly 700 feet in length, of which 450 
are occupied by the hall alone. An enthusiastic 
tourist describes the exterior, with its sculptured 
niches, its crocheted pinnacles, and embattled para- 
pets, its windows filled with gorgeous tracery, every 
available surface bristling with shields charged with 
the heraldic crests and quarterings of the Grosvenor 
family, as presenting a sight savoring more of a 
palace of fairy land than of the house and home of a 
retiring English nobleman. 

The internal grandeur of this incomparable man- 
sion far exceeds its exterior beauty. Here are to be 
seen a lofty Entrance Hall, decorated with marble 



30 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

statues, vases, figures of men in armor, of all ages, a 
grand corridor enriched with family portraits, a do- 
mestic chapel, with a beautifully stained window ; a 
dining-room of capacious dimensions, adorned with 
richly-carved ceiling, sideboards, pictures (one of 
which is by Rubens), and statues; a saloon, with a 
marble floor, and marble base supporting a lofty fret- 
work of painted mosaic of Alhambra pattern, walls 
covered with paintings of landscapes by the best Eng- 
lish artists, bassi-relievi, windows containing figures 
of great warriors of bygone times ; a drawing-room, the 
walls of which are hung with rich crimson silk dam- 
ask, lighted by enormous chandeliers, chimney- 
pieces of marble, original pictures by Rubens and 
West ; a library of corresponding magnificence, sixty- 
two feet by fifty, containing numerous shelves of 
books, and enriched with chaste and beautiful marble 
groups; and, finally, a grand staircase, embellished 
with Egyptian statues, and modern pictures, illustra- 
tive of English country life. 

Emerging from the Hall, the visitor enters the 
gardens, and finds, in the exquisite groves, the lake, 
the crystal conservatory, the Roman altar, the mas- 
sive statuary, the rose, the shrub, and flower-beds, 
the lawns and walks, &c, &c, ample material for 
the highest amount of human enjoyment. 

NORTH WALES. 

Quitting Chester, there are two journeys open to 
the tourist, the performance of which must depend on 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 3] 

time and taste. A couple of days may be most 
agreeably passed in a trip to Bangor, and an inspec- 
tion of the wonderful Britannia tubular bridge, which, 
spanning the Menai Straits, connects the Isle of 
Anglesey with Wales ; thence backward to Shrews- 
bury, through North Wales, unrivalled in England 
for the grandeur of its scenery. From Shrewsbury 
the railway runs to 

BIRMINGHAM. 

The specialty of this w r ell-known manufacturing 
town lies in the comparative smallness of the build- 
ings in which the work is carried on. Unlike Man- 
chester, Preston, Blackburn, Bolton, &c, where tall 
chimneys, vomiting dense columns of black smoke, 
announce the operations of hundreds of steam-engines, 
Birmingham is composed, in great part, of unpretend- 
ing houses, where the manufactory of steel pens, 
pins, buttons, papier-mache screens, cases, boxes, &c, 
is conducted. Thousands of young persons obtain 
employment in these factories. The streets of the 
city are neither wide nor level, the town being built 
on a hill, but the facades of the public offices and 
those of many companies are Grecian and handsome. 
There is a Town Hall of ample dimensions, suited to 
lectures and concerts on a grand scale, as well as to 
the operations of justice, and the railway terminus is 
grand. The visiter, however, will do well to be con- 
tented with a visit to two or three factories of the 
kind we have named, and taking refreshment at the 



32 Norton's ha^td-book to europe ; 

Hen and Chickens, or the Queen's Hotel (a fine 
edifice, well conducted, at the railway station), to 
move onward to 

LEAMINGTON, 

A small but elegant town, which is reached in one 
hour by the direct route. 

Leamington is simply a place of genteel resort for 
persons in easy circumstances, and invalids who 
require the spa water. Many persons of these classes 
reside there continually, while others spend a few 
weeks of a " season" in the town. Seeing Leaming- 
ton saves the tourist the trouble of going to kindred 
idle towns, Cheltenham, Bath, Harrowgate, &c. Its 
chief features are its handsome streets and churches, 
its circulating libraries, assembly rooms, and walks. 
The hotels are comfortable, and not very expensive. 
Vehicles are here obtained to convey passengers, who 
do not care to go by rail lest they should lose any of 
the scenery, to Kenilworth, five miles off. 

KENILWORTH. 

Fifty years since, few persons, except idlers fond of 
ruins and given to speculations on the mutability of 
human affairs, would have cared to visit Kenilworth. 
The genius of Walter Scott vms required to cast a 
halo over the venerable pile. And it certainly has 
had the effect in a very remarkable degree. The 
moss-grown debris of the once famous castle of the 
Earl of Leicester, Queen Elizabeth's favorite, and the 



33 

husband of Amy Robsart, has now become a place of 
universal resort, greatly to the advantage of the 
cicerone and the poor people who reside in the vicinity. 
It requires, however, a very powerful imagination to 
reproduce the scenes and events so forcibly described 
by the great Magician of the North. There is not a 
trace of the chamber in which Leicester trifled the 
time with his unfortunate wife, nor of the remarkable 
pit into which Sir Richard Varney caused poor Amy 
to precipitate herself. The tourist must be contented 
to fatigue himself with rambling up and down the 
ruins, listening to the gabble of the guides, founded 
upon conjecture, and the archaeological research of 
others, and looking at the country from the summit 
of the highest accessible tower. Eighteen pence laid 
out upon " Heck's Guide" to the castle, finds its com- 
pensation in the historical facts accumulated by the 
author for the benefit of strangers. Eleven minutes 
of railway travelling carry us to 

WARWICK CASTLE, 

and the little old-fashioned town of Warwick. There 
are few objects in England more pioturesque than the 
castle, and the bridge which crosses the Avon. A 
view of the approach repays the visit. The castle 
itself, the residence of the Earl of Warwick, owes its 
celebrity partly to its own grandeur, but chiefly to its 
association with the names of Guy, and Richard 
Neville, two of the earls of by-gone times, the former 
of whom achieved more deeds than " Turk Gregory," 
while the latter contented himself with treating kings 
2* 



34 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

as if they were packs of cards, made onlj to be shuf- 
fled, knocked down, and set up again, at pleasure. The 
approach to the grand front of the castle, reveals three 
stupendous towers, and the entrance is flanked with 
embattled walls, covered with ivy. A few apartments 
are shown to strangers, but they are more remarkable 
for pictures by the great Flemish masters, and some 
antique curiosities, than anything else. At the en- 
trance — the porter's lodge — there are to be seen por- 
tions of the armor and weapons of the renowned 
" G-uy," who, if he could wear the one and wield the 
other, must have been a person of gigantic proportions 
and herculean power. In a green-house of the 
gardens attached to the castle, is a superb vase, known 
as the Warwick vase, because it was purchased by one 
of the earls, after it had been discovered at Tivoli, near 
Rome. It is so large that it would contain one hun- 
dred and sixty-eight gallons of liquid. 

As to the town of "Warwick, there is positively 
nothing attractive, excepting the Beauchamp Chapel, a 
beautiful specimen of the Gothic style, containing one 
or two old and curious monuments. 

From Warwick, we make our pilgrimage to 

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON. 

A railway to the hallowed spot is open, but, if pre- 
ferred, a ftage or a post chaise may continue the mode 
of conveyance. 

Almost everybody reads Shakespeare, and, conse- 
quently, almost everybody is seized with a certain de- 



OR, HOAV TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 35 

gree of enthusiasm respecting his birth-place and his 
early haunts. There is undeniable evidence extant, 
that the mighty master of the human heart was born 
and baptized at Stratford ; that he obtained a license 
to marry a woman much older than himself (Anne 
Hathaway), and that three years before his death he 
retired to Stratford, upon the fortune he had acquired 
by his talents and exertions, and died there, aged 52. 
The records of the church attest the first facts, and the 
affecting monumental inscription, beginning, " Good 
friend, for Jesus' sake, forbear," &c, and covering the 
ashes of the poet, confirm the last. The house in 
which Shakespeare was born, and the church, are thus 
the chief objects of interest in the town. The travel- 
lers' associations will help to an enjoyment of these 
sacred scenes. If he is an honest enthusiast, and ardent 
admirer of the works of the " Swan of Avon," he will 
linger about the church and the house — the latter a little 
bit of a place, that would hardly satisfy the ambition 
of a modern journeyman in these days — and, perhaps, 
commit the folly of inscribing his autograph on the 
well-covered walls ; and he will gaze till his eyes ache 
at the clumsy bust in the chancel, and purchase one 
of the small models thereof as a souvenir. Unless, 
however, he really does appreciate Shakespeare, he had 
better not waste his time in going to Stratford at all. 
There is a tradition that William Shakespeare was 
once prosecuted by Sir Thomas Lucy, of Charlecote, 
for stealing deer ; and it is supposed that Lucy is rid- 
iculed in the character of Justice Shallow. Be this 
as it may, there can be little doubt that all the country 



36 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

around Stratford was trodden at some time or other 
by the poet's feet, and supplied him with much of that 
extraordinary acquaintance with the animal and ve- 
getable kingdom, which is perpetually made manifest 
in his pastoral scenes and poetical allusions. A walk 
to Charlecote, therefore, adds to the attractions of the 
visit to Stratford. The park is filled with fine trees 
and deer ; and a reflective man may imagine himself 
u for the nonce" the melancholy Jaques, and moralize 
accordingly. 

Back to Leamington, and thence by the train to 

oxford. 

There is nothing in the New World, and very little 
in the Old World, which partakes of the character of 
this seat of classical learning. There i3 enough here 
to supply the most skilful hand at " doing" a, place ra- 
pidly with material for two days' entertainment and 
inquiry. In other towns, excepting Cambridge, a 
university is comprehended in a single college or acad- 
emy. In Oxford there are nineteen distinct colleges, 
the first of which, called " University College," par 
excellence, was built or commenced in a. d. 872 ; and 
the last (Worcester) in 1714. They are all built upon 
the same plan, a quadrangle, but the style of architec- 
ture depends upon the age in which each was erected. 
The students or graduates have small rooms to them- 
selves, and there is a common hall where all dine 
at a given hour. To some of the colleges superb 
churches and halls are attached, with gardens, grounds, 
and meadows, through which the Isis flows. See two 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 37 

or three of the colleges, say Christ Church, Merton, 
New College, and Baliol. But the interest attaching 
to Oxford is not confined to the colleges. The stranger 
should make a point of seeing the grand Bodleian 
Library, the theatre, where the public acts of the 
university are celebrated, and the founders and bene- 
factors annually commemorated ; the Clarendon 
Printing Press, so called from its having been 
partly founded from the proceeds of the sale of Lord 
Clarendon's " History of the Rebellion." The Clar- 
endon contains the geological collections of the learned 
Dr. Buckland. Then there is the Ashmolean Mu- 
seum, replete with genera in every department of 
zoology, medals, coins, paintings, manuscripts, and the 
library of Lilly, the once-famous astrologer ; the 
Taylor Institution, rich in the possession of a superb 
library ; the original casts of Chantrey, one of England's 
greatest sculptors, many of the Pomfret statues, and 
nearly two hundred original drawings by Michael An- 
gelo and Raffaelle ; and lastly, the Radcliffe Library, 
well stored with works on natural history, philosophy, 
and medicine, and from the summit of which a fine 
panoramic view of all Oxford is obtained. 

There are some very good hotels at Oxford. The 
best are the Star, the Angel, and the Mitre. The 
charges correspond with those we have already given. 

The Great Western railway offers us the means of 
soon going to London, but, in completion of our plan 
and to avoid the necessity of again coming west, we 
stop, within twenty-one miles of the metropolis, at 



38 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

WINDSOR, 

that a view may be obtained of all of the exterior, and 
as much of the interior as is shown to the public gen- 
erally, of the palace of Queen Victoria. 

For strength, grandeur, and antiquity combined, no 
castle in the world approaches this majestic structure. 
Begun by William the Conqueror, enlarged and im- 
proved by successive monarchs, it has received a touch 
of the architectural taste of eight centuries, but a not 
unsuccessful attempt has been made by later sovereigns 
to preserve a harmony of style. Erected upon a knoll 
or mound of earth, and raised to a considerable eleva- 
tion, the prospect which Windsor Castle offers from 
the ramparts of the Round Tower is one of the most 
magnificent in the United Kingdom. An extent of 
twenty miles in circumference is offered to the view ; 
plain and valley, intersected by the serpentine course 
of the silver Thames, and varied by forest, park, and 
garden, dotted with venerable piles and antique towers* 
and the elegant residences of the aristocracy, combine 
to present a landscape which, for softness and pictur- 
esque beauty, has no parallel. 

The apartments of the castle, when her Majesty and 
family are not residing at Windsor, may be seen by 
the stranger. They are of vast size and splendor, 
owing much of the latter quality to the numerous val- 
uable pictures by the finest masters, ancient tapestries, 
and other works of art with which the walls and 
niches are decorated. The Queen's Audience Cham- 
ber, the Presence Chamber, the Guard Chamber, St. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 39 

George's Banqueting Hall, the Waterloo Chamber, 
the King's Drawing or Rubens' room, the King's 
Council Chamber, the King's and Queen's Closets, 
and the Vandyck room, are the principal apartments 
shown on any days except Fridays — or Tuesdays and 
Fridays when the Queen is at the castle. When her 
Majesty is absent a view of the private apartments of 
the Queen may be had, but to this end it is necessary 
to obtain an order from the Lord Chamberlain. As 
the titles indicate, the Rubens and Vandyck rooms 
contain some of the chefs cVouvres of those great artists, 
while the other chambers and closets are adorned 
with the paintings of the most illustrious men of the 
Italian, Flemish, and English schools. 

The Royal Mews or Stables, with accommodation 
for one hundred and twenty horses, thirty-six carriages 
of different kinds, and a considerable number of 
grooms and coachmen, will, next to the garden and 
terrace, claim the attention of the visiter. Every- 
thing there bespeaks excellent management and strict 
order — a characteristic of each part of the household 
of Queen Victoria. Of more interest, however, than 
the Mews are Henry VII. 's Chapel and St. George's, 
where royalty is buried. The cenotaph to the mem- 
ory of the Princess Charlotte of Wales is of singnLar 
beauty and originality. 

After a gratuity of^half a crown to the guide, if the 
party be not very large, the castle is quitted and the 
tourist proceeds to Eton College — one of the most 
striking objects seen from the Round Tower, a vener- 
able edifice founded by Henry VI., where many of 



40 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

the most enlightened of the English aristocracy have 
received their education — and thence to the parks 
and Virginia Water. The parks are very extensive, 
and, in some parts, laid out with an excellent eye to 
picturesque effect. They abound with noble trees, 
one of which is said to be the identical oak celebrated 
by Shakespeare in the Merry Wives of Windsor. It is 
known as Heme's Oak ; Heme, as the tradition goes, 
having been a gamekeeper who committed suicide, and 
has since visited the locality " in the spirit' ' on mis- 
chievous purposes intent. Virginia Water is the 
name given to an extensive lake, on which all the re- 
sources of art have been lavished to impart a romantic 
appearance. Fringed with thick plantation shrubs, 
trees, and exotics, this beautiful piece of water en- 
chants all who visit its banks on a warm summer day. 
Crossed by bridges of broad span, conducting to roads 
intersecting the plantations, and decorated here and 
there with gracefully constructed lodges, a boat-house, 
a cascade, and a stone cave, the eye is greeted with a 
perpetual variety of sylvan scenes. Of course it will 
be necessary to hire a fly — as the hired one-horse car- 
riages are called in England — as the walk over the 
castle and grounds in the immediate vicinity is 
fatiguing. The fly should be engaged at Windsor by 
the hour. Two hours will suffice for a drive through 
the parks and Virginia Water, and for a luncheon or 
light dinner at the Wheat Sheaf Inn, contiguous to the 
laka. 

Trains run from Slough (near Windsor) every hour, 
until ten o'clock at night, the journey lasting one hour. 



41 



The finest carriages in England are on this line, those 
of the first class having no rivals in the world for ease 
and comfort. The expense for a single individual by 
this class is about three shillings. 

At the terminus in London (or Paddington as that 
part of the huge Babylon is called) there is a superb, 
well-conducted and economical hotel, the charges at 
which vary with the story on which the room of the 
occupant may be situated. But as the luggage of the 
passengers is soon removed from the trains, and there 
are innumerable cabs and omnibuses always in waiting 
to convey persons with speed to any part of London, 
there will be no occasion to remain at the Great West- 
ern hotel, should the newly arrived visiter determine 
to reside in a more central part of the town. 

In the foregoing tour we have consumed nine or ten 
days' time, and have probably spent seventy dollars 
a head, inclusive of everything. 

SECOND ROUTE TO LONDON. 
SOUTHAMPTON. 

The approach to Southampton from the western 
extremity of the Isle of Wight, via the Solent, and 
then up Southampton Water, impresses the traveller 
very favorably with the beauty of the British coast, 
and not the less so that it announces the approaching 
close of a voyage across the Atlantic. The caution 
recommended in respect to the preparation for the re- 
ception of the revenue officers at Liverpool, is equally 
imperative on the voyager to Southampton. Expect a 



42 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

rude handling of the contents of trunks and carpet- 
bags, and be assured that the possession of contraband 
goods will be a source of inconvenience to their un- 
lucky owner. 

Southampton abounds with hotels, some of which 
are situated on the High street. Radley's, however, 
is nearest to the docks, and is in all respects very su- 
perior to the rest. Spacious, airy, and very well 
conducted — with the additional advantage of being 
vis a vis the railway terminus — it distances all ri- 
valry. 

Having forwarded the bulk of the baggage to Lon- 
don, take a walk into the town of Southampton. It 
is a small town, with one good street, full of bustle and 
well-furnished shops. On a fine day a great many of 
the families residing in the vicinity come into town to 
make their purchases. The High street (the street in 
question) is divided by an old arched gateway, which 
goes by the name of a " Bar." This Bar-gate formerly 
constituted one of the defences of the town. The two 
figures on its north front represent Sir Bevois of 
Hampton and the giant Ascapart whom he slew in 
single combat ; so, at least, says the tradition. 

An hour's walk from Southampton, in an easterly 
direction, through a country of enchanting beauty, 
will take the tourist to Netley Abbey, or, rather, to the 
ivy-clad ruins of that very ancient structure. The 
same time and distance, in a southwesterly course, 
lead to the New Forest, which William, the Norman 
conqueror, laid out for his own especial gratification. 
To a free people the sight of the locality of an extinct 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 43 

feudal tyranny will always suggest reflections of a 
gratalatory kind. 

Embarking on board one of the little steamers 
which run every hour, taking care to be accompanied 
by his baggage, the traveller is rapidly conveyed to the 
picturesque Isle of Wight, decidedly one of the loveli- 
est spots in England. It is a perfect garden. Coaches 
leave Ryde, the landing point, continually, for the 
interior. The ride is through an undulating country, 
the road flanked by lofty trees or sweet-smelling 
hedge-rows, redolent of wild rose and honeysuckle. 
The land is highly cultivated. Cornfields and barley- 
fields, acres of oats and clover meadows, gardens and 
little woods, interspersed with cottages and gentlemen's 
seats, diversify the aspect. The points to which the 
ride should be directed are the villages of Bonchurch, 
Shanklin, and Yentnor, all quiet, sylvan, and roman- 
tic, commanding views of the sea on one side and 
charming landscapes on the other. Returning, the 
course should be to Newport, in the neighborhood of 
which is Carisbrook Castle, where the unfortunate 
Charles the First was taken prisoner. Going from 
Newport to East Cowes, still passing through a lovely 
bit of country, we pass " Osborne House," the favorite 
mansion of the Queen of England. Arrived at East 
Cowes, numerous yachts are seen at anchor or scud- 
ding about in the vicinity, and row-boats are also 
available. The visit to the isle cannot have a better 
climax than a trip on one of the boats (if the weather 
be fine) to one of the ships-of-war lying at Spithead. 
The 6mcers take pride in showing their ships to stran- 



44 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

gers, and in offering them hospitality in the shape of 
luncheon. The boat remains alongside of the ship, and 
is used to convey the tourist to Portsmouth harbor, 
where lie the Britannia man-of-war, used for the in- 
struction of midshipmen, and the Victory, on board 
which Nelson fell at Trafalgar — an incident com- 
memorated by an inscription in brass on the deck. 
From these vessels" the distance ashore is very short. 
The Naval Arsenal and Victualing Yard are the other . 
" lions" of Portsmouth — the " elephants," as we should 
say in America ; having seen which, we get into a 
train that takes us in two hours to Brighton. Ports- 
mouth hotels should, if possible, be avoided. They 
are costly, and by no means comfortable. The George, 
in the High street, is the principal hotel, but the Que- 
bec is much better situated. From its bow windows 
a complete view of the harbor, and the activity of 
which it is the central scene, is afforded. 

BRIGHTON. 

This is emphatically " London out of town." Situ- 
ated on the Sussex coast, within an hour and a quar- 
ter's journey by rail from the metropolis, this sea-side 
agglomeration of houses of all forms and dimensions, 
is the great autumnal resort of thousands of the upper 
and middle classes, who are glad to fly from the sti- 
fling heat, smoke, and dreariness of desolate London. 
The town consists of one continual series of terraces 
and squares of lofty houses facing the sea, for about 
two miles east and west, with numerous streets running 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 45 

at right angles, north of the principal line, up a gentle 
acclivity. One long road runs parallel to the terraces, 
and at the eastern end of the town is a complete nest 
of shops, many of them equalling, in riches and ele- 
gance, the fine establishments of London. There is 
little of architectural elegance in Brighton, almost all 
the houses having convex fronts, which command 
views of the sea ; but there is a piece of architectural 
singularity which cannot be overlooked ; this is the 
Pavilion par excellence, erected for the residence of 
King George the Fourth. It is a hybrid affair, par- 
taking of the very opposite qualities of a Mahomedan 
mosque and a Chinese pagoda. The interior is espe- 
cially Chinese in its decorations. As Queen Victoria 
did not feel disposed to occupy the " Pavilion," which 
only exhibited the execrable taste of the " finest gen- 
tleman in Europe,'' it feas been appropriated by the 
inhabitants of Brighton to the purposes of balls, con- 
certs, lectures, exhibitions of pictures, fancy fairs, and 
similar entertainments. 

Of the hotels in Brighton, it is difficult to say more 
than that they are all well-conducted, airily situated, 
and afford capital accommodation at prices scarcely 
varying from any other. The Bedford is the most 
fashionable, and between the comfort of the Old Ship 
and the convenience of the Albion there is not a pin 
to choose. There are numerous bathing machines on 
the sea-shore, and baths in the town , for the accommo- 
dation of those who go to Brighton for " a dip" — the 
expense of the former being a shilling, and of the lat- 
ter two shillings. A well-conducted theatre offers 



46 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

entertainment in the evening, but it is difficult to woo 
the residents and the strangers from the promenades 
on the cliff and parade in front of the terraces, enliv- 
ened as they are by the presence of Wandering Min- 
strels, Italian Troubadours, Ethiopian banjo-and-bones 
concerts, and indefatigable organ-grinders. A few 
hours at Brighton, and we are off to London, having 
passed three days very pleasantly, and spent about 
twenty dollars each person. 

THIRD ROUTE TO LONDON. 

It may be that circumstances suggest the adoption 
of the Irish line, conducted by the Galway Packet 
Company. This will afford an opportunity of seeing 
the " green isle," which necessarily forms part of the 
tour, and can be adopted either going from, or return- 
ing to America. There is not much in the town of 
Galway itself to detain the passenger who should land 
there, but he will pass through a charming country 
en route to Dublin, and find much to admire in the 
handsome and hospitable metropolis of Ireland. 
Dublin will demand at least two days' attention. 
The town, the bay, the castle, Phoenix Park, and the 
law courts, are much too interesting to be dismissed 
at a glance, especially if the visiter enter the courts 
to listen to the eloquence of the Irish bar, or desire to 
see a military review upon a grand scale. 

Should there be time to devote to an inspection of 
some oPthc picturesque beauties of Ireland, it will be 
as well to go from Galway to the south, and see the 
Lakes of Killarney ; thence to Dublin, crossing to 
Holyhead or Liverpool. At the close of this volume 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 47 

a few pages have been devoted to a more minute ac- 
count of the most interesting features of Ireland. 

FOURTH ROUTE TO LONDON. 

Arrive at Glasgow, after a short trip up the river 
Clyde, and make the tour of Scotland (described in a 
later part of this Hand-Book), reversing the order of 
the route completely. 

LONDON. 

There are so many excellent hotels in London that 
it is difficult to express a decided preference, especially 
as the objects of interest in and around this mighty 
Babylon lie in every direction, and are about equi- 
distant from the centre. Morley's, in Trafalgar 
Square, has acquired a certain name among Ameri- 
cans, but it is expensive, and in a noisy locality. 
Families desiring quiet, after the bustle of a day's 
round of sights, will do better to establish themselves 
at the St. George's, or Everett's, in Albemarle street ; 
or the Queen's, in Cork street, Burlington Gardens ; 
or the Burlington Hotel, in its immediate vicinity. 
Men of business will find the Exeter Hotel, near Exeter 
Hall, Exeter street, in the Strand, a commodious and 
suitable house. Excellent lodgings may be obtained, 
if they are considered preferable to a hotel, in the vi- 
cinity of Hyde Park, on the Bayswater road; but as, 
unlike the American hotels, only those meals are 
charged for which are actually eaten, it is perhaps as 
well to go to one of the public hostelries, for attend- 
ance is to be had at all hours of the day and night, 
and dinner and supper dressed within a very short 



48 Norton's hand-book to eu^ope ; 

time of their being ordered. Young men, with slen- 
der purses, must eschew the hotels under any circum- 
stances — taking a room, of which hundreds are an- 
nounced at the windows to be let, within a circle oi a 
quarter of a mile, of which Morley's hotel is the 
centre. 

The way to engage lodgings is to contract to pay 
so much per week for the bed-room and servants' 
attendance. The prices vary from 8s. ($2) to 12s., 
according to the locality and the floor. Two rooms, 
one a parlor or drawing-room, will cost from 15s. to 
25s. or 30s. The bed-room will perhaps suffice, and 
the landlady will serve the breakfast there, either by 
contract, or charging for the tea, coffee, bread, butter, 
&c, actually purchased. Dinner can be procured at 
any one of the five thousand coffee-rooms, chop- 
houses and restaurants, which abound in London. 
The most economical is a chop house, where, literally, 
chops, steaks, and kidneys, are dressed after a manner 
to satisfy the most fastidious epicure. The best of these 
are to be found in Cheapside, Cornhill, and the alleys 
and lanes running out of them. Hot potatoes and a 
pint of ale added to the chop, broiled before your 
very eyes, will cost about ninepence — say, including 
a gratuity to the waiter, one shilling (twenty cents). 
The restaurants are more chargeable. Verry's, in 
Regent street, Epitaux's, in the Opera Colonnade, the 
Westminster, in St. James' street, and the Cafe de 
1' Europe, in the Haymarket, are the best. Everything 
is served up in elegant style, at a cost of two shillings 
to three shillings and sixpence each person. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WOULD. 49 

There is but one way of "doing" London life 
stylishly ; and that consists in going to an expensive 
hotel, such as Mivart's, in Brook street, or the Claren- 
don in Bond street, engaging a Brougham c*r carriage 
and pair by the week, which costs about £15 (875), 
including gratuities to coachmen and lacqueys, and 
entertaining friends at the private room of the hotel — 
a very expensive proceeding, but indispensable to the 
highest and richest order of travellers. The carriage, be 
it remembered, is available all day and all night long. 
It can be used in the morning to visit places of attrac- 
tion, in the afternoon to call upon the great folks of 
London, and in the evening to convey parlies to the 
opera or theatre, and afterward to a ball or "at 
home," which seldom commences before 10, p. M. 
But the general run of visiters will not find it neces- 
sary to indulge in this extravagance. Cabs are 
always to be had to go any distance ; flys, Brough- 
ams, Clarences, &c, all of the carriage style, and 
wearing an air of private property, can be hired by 
the day or hour, for visits or evening parties, or 
wherever dress is indispensable. The cab here is six- 
pence per mile, or two shillings per hour, for one or 
two persons, an extra sixpence for every third or 
fourth person, and sixpence for each quarter of an 
hour of detention. Care should be taken, on alight- 
ing from a cab at a place where there is a possibility 
of your being detained, to look at your watch, and 
show it to the cab-driver, that there may be no subse- 
quent disputes arising out of a conjectural computa- 
tion of the time spent. A cabman's mile is a very 

3 



SO Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

short one, and his quarter of an hour very much 
resembles five or ten minutes. Nothing is paid for 
baggage if carried within a cab, for every package 
outside the charge is three pence. 

Where shall the round of London sights be com- 
menced? Naturally with the places of the most im- 
portance — the Houses of Lords and Commons. The 
imitation of the antique grandeur of Gothic buildings 
on the exterior fixes attention, and the luxurious 
splendor and comfort of the interior rivet the spec- 
tator, curious in observing how lavish a rich and 
powerful people can be upon the accommodation of 
their legislators. Nothing can be more opposed to 
the serene dignity of the Roman Capitol than the 
affluent embellishment of the British Houses of Par- 
liament. The carved roofs, pillars, and benches of 
polished oak, the grand glass sky-lights, above which 
burns the gas, shedding a soft light upon the spacious 
senate halls, the rich and soft cushions, the statues of 
a long line of sovereigns and eminent statesmen, the 
fresco paintings, illustrative of the history of the 
British Constitution, the encaustic pavements, the 
grand glass windows, the lofty arched roofing of 
staircases and entrance hall, the throne of the 
Sovereign, the robing-room, the libraries, the com- 
mittee rooms, &c, &c, furnish matter of examination 
for two or three hours. If Parliament be sitting, ad- 
mission should be obtained to the strangers' or speaker's 
gallery. This is effected by a member's order only, 
not a very difficult matter to achieve on a night when 
no very important question is likely to be agitated. A 



OK, HOW TO TRAVEL IN TOE OLD WORLD. 51 

note from an American gentleman, addressed to any 
member who is not very conspicuous (and the omis- 
sion of his name in the debates settles his true status), 
will, in all likelihood, insure a card for a special night, 
not available on any other, or a gratuity to one of the 
porters hanging about the entrance to the Houses, 
will procure the desideratum. The formula of a de- 
bate, and the perfect order which reigns throughout, 
except when some very absurd member of the House 
of Commons makes preposterously ridiculous obser- 
vations, and disturbs the serenity of the assembly — a 
rare occurrence, however — will strike the visiter. 
The seat obtained must not be quitted during the 
evening with any prospect of recovering it, nor must 
a single remark or demonstration of any kind proceed 
from the stranger. He is not even permitted to take 
notes. The accommodation for ladies is very limited. 
They are only allowed to observe the proceedings 
and hear the debates from a latticed gallery, which 
conceals them from observation, behind the reporters 
for the newspapers. Admission to the House of 
Lords is obtained by a peer's order. 

The American minister in London has the privilege 
of writing admissions to the Houses of Parliament 
during the sittings ; but the applications which he re- 
ceives from Americans are so much in excess of his 
means of compliance, that it will be advisable to seek 
the channels to which reference has been made. 

Emerging from the Houses of Legislation, we step 
into Westminster Abbey ; not to go over the same in- 
dividual inspection as had been bestowed upon Chester 



52 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

Cathedral, but to view the monuments of the illustrious 
departed — kings, statesmen, poets, warriors. The 
" corner" allotted to the literary men is of peculiar in- 
terest. Divine service is held in the abbey at 10 a. m. 
and 3 p. m. The singing and music are of the highest 
character. 

If the army and navy offices, respectively called the 
Horse Guards and the Admiralty, and the building 
which contains the Home and Foreign offices, have es- 
caped notice on the walk or ride to the Houses of Par- 
liament, they may be looked at on the way back. The 
architecture of the civil establishment is modern and 
very handsome. The Horse Guards and Admiralty 
are unsightly edifices, and there is nothing within but 
a series of little rooms for the accommodation of 
secretaries and clerks. The eye of the stranger will, 
however, be arrested by the two cavalry soldiers of 
the Life Guards or Oxford Blues, who do sentry duty 
at the sides of the military office. There are no finer 
men or horses in the world than those which form the 
three royal regiments of cavalry, and their costume is 
rich, soldier-like, and massive. It was in the terrible 
charge at Waterloo, that the weight and stature of 
these Herculean troops told with such fearful effect 
upon the French cuirassiers. 

Nearly opposite the Horse Guards, is Whitehall, 
the locale of the "judicial murder" of Charles L, 
which has been justly called a blunder, because it 
made a martyr of a bad king ; and by the side of the 
hall is a small square, called, " Whitehall Place," in 
which stands the United Service Inst'tute and Museum. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 53 

Members have the privilege of issuing an indefinite num- 
ber of admissions to the museum, which is, without an 
exception, one of the most curious in Europe. It con- 
tains several rooms, staircases and passages, a library, 
and lecture theatre. In one of the rooms is an im- 
mense and marvellously-executed model of the Battle 
of Waterloo, in which every field, and the peculiar 
character of the grain which grew thereon, is repre- 
sented by colored mosses. The rival armies, with 
their hordes of cavalry, artillery, and infantry, are de- 
pict ed by thousands of tiny figures in lead, arrayed in 
line or column, exactly as they stood or moved at the 
last critical moment of the battle of giants. The 
firing of the riflemen and the artillery is very happily 
imitated ; and the villages and farm-houses upon the 
field, are all carefully represented. Contiguous to this 
model is one upon an equally large scale, representing 
the siege of Sebastopol, and smaller models of the va- 
rious sections of fortification. In another apartment 
may be seen a large collection of the fire-arms, the 
swords, lances, bows, arrows, shields, armor, and cos- 
tumes of all nations, and of different ages ; relics 
of British heroes, naval and military ; and a singular 
collection of articles recovered from Arctic expedi- 
tions ; models of impromptu bridges used in the Penin- 
sular war ; flags captured from the enemy ; the saddle 
of Blucher ; and the skeleton of Napoleon's favorite 
barb, Marengo. Then there are excellent models, on a 
large scale, of ships of all kinds, from the clumsy Royal 
Harry, down to the taper steam-frigate ; barges, 



54 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

prahoes, canoes, yachts, and a hundred of the futile 
inventions emanating from the brains of theorists ; bat- 
teries, cannon, shells, shot of all kinds ; absolute il- 
lustrations of the progress of a rifle, stock, barrel, and 
lock, &c, &c. ; in a word, there is everything in this 
museum, not excluding a thousand fine specimens of 
zoology, icthyology, mineralogy, and osteology. If 
there is any trouble in finding a member of the Insti- 
tute, in view to getting an order, go into the Horse 
Guards, and ask one of the messengers to oblige, an 
American, by asking for one. These good and civil 
men, generally old soldiers, will attend to the request 
with alacrity, and it will secure a similar attention to 
all other Americans if a shilling be dropped into the 
hand of the messenger. Ring at the bell of " The 
Commander-in-Chief 'S Office ;" there is no mistaking 
it, as an inscribed brass plate indicates the door. 

After leaving the museum, walk (en route to the 
hotel) to the exhibition of Water-Color Artists, and the 
Society of British Artists, in Suffolk street, Pall Mali, 
Dine at the hotel, and take your choice of a theatre. 
They are all within half a mile of you, some much 
less. The admission to theatres is pretty much the 
same ; boxes, four or five shillings ; pit (parquet), two 
shillings ; gallery, one shilling. The Italian Opera, 
an exotic, is much more expensive ; the stalls cost 
about one guinea (five dollars) each ; the pit from eight 
to ten shillings ; private boxes from two guineas to six 
guineas, according to their situation ; the amphitheatre, 
at the top of the house, three shillings. 

Exactitude of evening costume is indispensable at 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 55 

the opera. Neither to the pit or boxes is any one 
admitted who departs from the conventional black 
dress coat, black waistcoat and pantaloons, with 
white, lavender, or straw-colored kid gloves. The 
neckcloth may be black or white. At the theatres 
the same rigor is not observed ; but no lady is ad- 
mitted to the dress circle of any theatre in her bonnet. 
If for convenience she should happen to go in one, it 
must be committed to the care of one of the females 
in the lobby, who will expect a fee for the custody of 
the article. 

Another day may be advantageously spent in view- 
ing the contents of the British Museum in Great Rus- 
sell street, Bloomsbury. It is too vast an affair to be 
minutely inspected, but the stupendous remains of 
Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, and Roman architecture 
and sculpture, and the superb reading-room, should not 
be overlooked. Hie away to the city proper, and 
plant yourself at the base of the statue of the Duke of 
Wellington, in front of the Royal Exchange. You 
will then have at one view the Bank of England, the 
Royal Exchange, " where merchants most do congre- 
gate,'* and the Mansion House, where the Lord Mayor 
resides and holds his court of justice. If you should 
happen to be in London on the 9th of November, it 
maybe worth while to view the procession of the 
new Lord Mayor from the city to Westminster Hall, 
whither he goes to be sworn into office by the Lord 
Chancellor, after going through some ancient ceremo- 
nies. A dinner is given at the Mansion House on the 
evening of the 9th of November, to attend which a 



56 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

card of invitation is necessary, and procurable by the 
American Minister, or the landlord of a superior hotel, 
without much difficulty. The dinner is what Mr. 
Buchanan facetiously called " one of the British insti- 
tutions." It is worth attending because it exhibits 
the civic dignitaries in all their fussy glory, and en- 
ables the visiter to hear the Prime Minister, and other 
great officers of the state, ambassadors, etc., make 
speeches. 

It may be observed in passing, that an American 
should assist at least at one public dinner during his 
stay in London. Their object is charitable — that is 
to say, as the way to an Englishman's heart has been 
found to be through his stomach, it is thought that, 
after he has dined to his satisfaction, he listens with 
more patience, and generous inclinings, to the appeals 
made by post-prandial orators to his sympathy* than 
he would be likely to do before the cravings of hunger 
had been appeased. These public dinners are contin- 
ually coming off either at Willis' Rooms, King street, 
St. James's ; the St. James' Hall, or the London 
Tavern, in the city. The price of a ticket, which in- 
cludes wine, port or sherry (such as they are), is from 
fifteen shillings to one guinea. The attraction — let it 
be said in all truth — depends less upon the nature of 
the benevolent institution on whose behalf it is held, 
than upon the character, station, and oratorical pow- 
ers of the chairman and stewards. Perhaps the most 
popular and amusing of these meetings are the Theat- 
rical Fund dinners — for, then, a distinguished author, 
lecturer, or M. P., remarkable for his wit and literary 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 57 

attainments, presides, and he is sure to be supported by 
some of the lei espnts of the day. Vocal music, of a 
high order, enlivens the entertainment between the 
speeches and toasts ; and that ladies may partake of 
the fete without dining at the table (whence they are 
religiously excluded), seats are arranged for them in a 
gallery at the end of each dining-hall, and refresh- 
ments suited to them are served out during the even- 
ing. It is optional with the gentlemen guests to con- 
tribute anything to the charitable object of the dinner 
beyond their company and the price they have paid 
for the ticket. The smallest donation is acceptable, 
but when from one to five guineas is given, the name 
of the beneficent donor is called aloud by the secretary 
and treasurer when the stewards have completed their 
begging-rounds. 

Having glanced at the Bank, Exchange, etc., it is 
but a step to the Coal Exchange, a remarkably taste- 
ful piece of architecture, handsomely embellished 
within. The view of the interior from the highest 
gallery is very fine. From the Coal Exchange It is 
only a stone's throw to the Custom House, the Long 
Room of which superb commercial hall may be seen 
free) at any time during business hours. We are 
now, also, in the vicinity of the ancient Tower of Lon- 
don, the chief attractions of which consist of an extra- 
ordinary collection of arms of all ages, and defensive 
armor, very fantastically arranged ; curious imple- 
ments of torture and punishment used in the olden 
time; the crown jewels of England (including dia- 
dems, sceptres, sword of state, etc.), and the dungeon 

3* 



58 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

in which Sir Walter Raleigh was imprisoned, and 
where he wrote his History of the World ; two-and- 
sixpence. 

If there be time, advantage should be taken of the 
contiguity to the Mint to pay that remarkable estab- 
lishment a visit. The whole process of coining by 
steam machinery merits attention. 

The third day (or any day), may be well spent in 
driving to the South Kensington Museum, replete with 
articles of vertu, and a marvellous collection of pic- 
tures, by the most famous modern English artists, all 
given or bequeathed by opulent citizens. The admis- 
sion to the museum is sixpence (twelve cents), on three 
days in the week, and free on the other three. And 
having inspected the museum, the School of Design, 
and (very soon) the National Gallery, in North Ken- 
sington, the Gardens, and Old Palace, may invife at- 
tention. There will be time,- after seeing these, to 
take the omnibus to Kew, six miles off, where a de- 
licious botanic garden, extensive and most tastefully 
laid out in flower-beds, umbrageous trees, numerous 
hot-houses, replete with exotics from India, China, 
Australia, America, and the Islands of the Pacific ; 
large pieces of water, whence jets cteau play, a curious 
pagoda, and an old royal villa, will gladden the eye of 
the spectator, turn which way it may. At Kew 
Bridge, close to the Garden, hire a wherry or, if the tide 
serves, take the steamer (it is very much cheaper than the 
wherry), and return to London down the Thames, 
viewing the villas which skirt the banks, the gay gar- 
dens of Cremorne, Vauxhall Bridge, the Royal Mili- 



OK, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 59 

tarjr Hospital at Chelsea, Lambeth Palace, the New 
Pimlico Bridge, and various factories. Alight at 
Vauxhall, and take a cab to your hotel, whence, 
after dining well, if you do not find yourself too much 
fatigued, go to another theatre. 

The fourth day, if very fine, should be consecrated 
to a trip to the incomparable Crystal Palace, at Syd- 
enham, the most perfect mundane paradise in 
Europe, if the traveller be of cultivated taste, and has 
a pure sense of the beautiful. Here art and nature 
combine to intoxicate the senses, and carry captive 
the judgment. Leaving at about half-past nine, pro- 
ceed to Hungerford Market, and at the pier which 
projects therefrom, embark on one of the two-penny 
steamers which run to London Bridge. Thus, a view is 
obtained of the whole of the business part of the 
river. Thames. The iron suspension bridge at Hunger- 
ford Pier ; the immense factories and wharves ; the g^eat 
stone bridges, called severally Westminster, Waterloo, 
and Blackfriars ; the iron bridge connecting South wark 
with London ; Somerset House, a gorgeous stone pile, 
once belonging to a Duke of Somerset, but now 
appropriated to government offices ; the Temple and 
its Gardens, now a collection of lawyers' chambers and 
offices ; are all seen in the fifteen minutes' trip, be- 
sides showing the river itself instinct with busy life. 

Ascending the steps at London Bridge, and then 
crossing the road, we reach the Crystal Palace termi- 
nus. Should the weather be very fine and warm, take 
third-class tickets, and ride in an open car. The charge 
is but one shilling and sixpence for a return ticket, 
which admits to the palace. 



60 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

The objects of attraction within the Crystal Palace 
are so numerous, that it would be vain to attempt in 
this place anything beyond the most general descrip- 
tion. Not one guide book, but a series of guide books 
— not one visit, but a number of visits — are requisite 
to a thorough understanding of the riches deposited 
within and without this enchanting building. A fair 
degree of enjoyment may, notwithstanding, be secured 
in a single day, if the stroll through the palace be sys- 
tematically conducted. Let the Courts, illustrative of 
the history and progress of architecture, be first ex- 
amined. To this end, the Transept should be resolutely 
reached, to the utter disregard, for the time being, of the 
statues, fountains, and flowers, which woo the stran- 
ger on either side of the long aisle. Arrived at the 
Transept, examine the Egyptian Court on the left 
hand, and pass from that through the Greek and Ro- 
man Courts, severe in their classical simplicity, and 
grand from the noble imitations which they contain 
of the finest pieces of antique sculpture. From these 
pass into the gorgeous Alhambra Court, all gold, crim- 
son, and blue, so tasefully blended as to impart a soft 
cream-colored hue to the entire edifice. The Assy- 
rian Court comes next. The reproduction of the 
massive figures and bassi relievi, exhumed from the 
ruins of Nineveh, all colored to convey an idea of what 
the palaces of Sennacherib, Nebuchadnezzar, and Sem- 
iramis, may probably have been five thousand years 
ago, afford abundant field for study and speculation. 

The portion of the building allotted to the culture 
and preservation of tropical plants and trees, adjoins 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 61 

the Assyrian Court. View it by all means. The 
climate and the sylvan scenery of India and Austra- 
lia are here cleverly imitated. Crossing over, the 
modern courts are reached, beginning at the Byzantine, 
or early Christian. From the rude and clumsy attempts 
of the subjects of Constantine to erect temples worthy of 
Christianity, a chronological arrangement of the courts 
carries us through the early German and Italian styles, 
the renaissance, the Elizabethan, and the modern 
Italian, where are to be found, admirably executed, 
copies of the great works of the mighty Michael 
Angelo, Benvenuto Cellini, Ghiberti, and others. 

Having inspected the courts, the extraordinary ar- 
ray of busts of great men, and accomplished women 
of all nations, arrests notice, and while they are in- 
spected, the ear is gratified by the music of an excel- 
lent band of stringed instruments, or the peals of an im- 
mense and tuneful organ. Bodily refreshment is now 
at hand, and not before it is needed. Coffee, cakes, 
ices, ale, wine, sandwiches, are procurable at mode- 
rate cost. A rest of half an hour fits us for a glance 
at the other parts of the building. We enter the 
Courts of Birmingham and Sheffield, the Ceramic Court, 
the Pompeian House — a very ingenious and graceful 
" restoration" of the " house of the poet" — we see the 
shrubberies of Africa, Asia, and America, abounding 
with the specimens of savage life, human and animal ; 
then, ascending the staircase to our left, as we face 
the south end of the building, w r e find ourselves in the 
Picture Gallery, and move on from that to the East 
India Court, just taking a passing glimpse at the little 



62 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

stalls for the sale of nick-nacks, the models of ships, 
&c, &c 

The survey completed, descent by an opposite stair- 
case, leads to the western dining-room, its walls 
of crystal commanding an extensive view of the lovely 
county of Surrey. For one shilling and sixpence 
a-head, a dinner of cold meats, cold pie, bread, cheese, 
and salad, may be had. Lobster salads, ice puddings, 
blanc mange, &c, are charged extra, as are wines and 
ales. 

The sun is now declining, and the gardens have yet 
to be seen. Combining the plain Italian style, decorated 
with statues and fountains with the luscious English 
landscape style, with curved walks, lawn, and fragant 
shrubs, a serpentining stream at its extremity, this 
charming resort presents irresistible temptations for a 
stroll to the locale of the marvellous of the hideous 
antediluvian animals. From this point, it is not above 
two or three hundred yards to the railway station, 
where, until sunset, carriages are continually arriving 
to conduct the visiters back to London. 

It is unnecessary to say that all who have once 
been to Sydenham will endeavor to go again, and 
will probably select a day (though the cost of admis- 
sion will be greater) when the finest opera and oratorio 
singers are engaged, to add to the eclat of the concert, 
or a magnificent flower show adds to the brilliancy of, 
and imparts fragrance to the unrivalled Crystal Palace. 
The entire expense of the day's enjoyment, includ- 
ing the refreshments, may be set down at about five 
shillings. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 63 

For the remainder of the sights of London and its 
vicinity, it is not easy to allot particular days, be- 
cause circumstances will continually arise to disturb 
the arrangement. For instance, the exhibition of the 
pictures of the Royal Academy may either consume 
an entire day, or only two or three hours, according 
to the taste of the party ; a " morning" concert may, 
from the same influence, engross an entire afternoon. 
The Coloseum in Regent's Park, and the Zoological 
Gardens in the neighborhood, with their incomparable 
collection of animals of every description, and from 
every part of the known world, occupy some hours ; 
and then there are such objects as the Thames Tun- 
nel (one of Brunei's conceits), the wine-vaults in the 
London Docks, a review of the Guards in Hyde 
Park, or of the Artillery at Woolwich, which naturally 
excite curiosity and interest. The latter spectacle, by 
the way, may be viewed in connection with another 
sight, and another event which should not be omitted 
on any account. We have seen a part of the river 
above the bridge. Proceed to Woolwich by the North 
Kent Railway, near London Bridge (the same terminus 
as the Crystal Palace), rather early in the day, say 
10 o'clock. View the arsenal and the model room ; 
then walk to the parade and review ground and see 
the practice of the artillery. From Woolwich take a 
penny or two penny boat to Greenwich, and visit the 
noble Hospital for aged and invalid seamen. The 
painted gallery contains some finely executed pictures 
of naval victories, and other striking nautical inci- 
dents, and a few souvenirs of Captain Cook, the cir- 



64 nortox's hand-book to eurdpe ; 

cumnavigator of the globe, Lord Nelson, &c. Con- 
tiguous to the Royal Hospital are the Crown and 
Sceptre, and Trafalgar, two good hotels, facing the 
river, where a " white bait" dinner is served up in 
capital style. This is an English, or rather a London, 
" Institution ;*' it is nowhere else procurable. There 
are two ways of enjoying it. One way consists in 
allowing the landlord to send up an abundance of 
superfluities in the shape of salmon, flounders, and 
eels, before he introduces the white bait and brown 
bread, which in their turn are succeeded by roast 
lamb, ducks, peas, asparagus, tarts, &c, for all of 
which a heavy price is paid ; and the other, and more 
rational plan, consists in the landlord, or his caterer, 
being allowed no voice or discretion in the matter. 
The latter is by far the best plan. Contract for a 
dinner (exclusive of liquors) at three shillings and six- 
pence (eighty-seven cents) a head, and desire that it 
shall consist exclusively of white bait, one dish of 
which should be red-peppered, slices of brown bread 
and butter, a duck and peas, some lamb chops fried 
in egg crumbs, new potatoes, and a gooseberry tart, 
with cheese and butter. There is nothing more 
absurdly wasteful than the dinners which Englishmen 
are prone to order " for the good of the house." No 
one is benefited by this but the maitre oV hotel, for 
whom you do not care, and who only cares for 
you as long as you spend monev for his especial 
benefit. 

A day may be very pleasantly passed in a trip to 
Richmond and Hampton Court The old palace of 



65 

Cardinal Wolsey at the latter place is in fine order ; 
the hall, the innumerable corridors, closets, and re- 
ception rooms, filled with pictures by masters of all 
schools, from the days of Raphael and Holbein to the 
early art of the present century, the models of re- 
markable palaces, and tjie cartoons of Raphael com- 
pose a feast in themselves ; bnt besides these, there is 
a beautiful garden attached to the palace, and in front 
of it is Bushy Park, abounding with deer, and 
skirted by chestnut trees, which blossom in May, and 
present a lovely coup d'ceil. 

Should the weather be propitious, the most agreea- 
ble way for a party to go to Richmond and Hampton 
Court is in an open carriage, with a hamper, similarly 
packed to that which accompanies a sestette to the 
Derby or the Ascot, and which will be fouad described 
a little further on. Arrived at Hampton Court, the 
horses taken out of the carriage and set to bait at the 
livery stables (which are numerous there), the party, 
after making their tour of the palace and gardens, 
should cause the hamper to be carried into Bushy Park, 
and there spreading the cloth on the soft grass, be- 
neath the shade of the lofty chestnut trees, a pic-nic 
dinner is enjoyed in perfection, especially if one of the 
party is " funny" par excellence, and all are animated 
by a spirit of enjoyment. 

Go to Hampton Court by train from the Waterloo 
terminus, a short distance beyond the Surrey end of 
Waterloo bridge. Each passenger pays two shillings, 
first class, one shilling and sixpence, second clas3. 
After viewing the palace, gardens, and park, take a 



66 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

wherry at the neighboring bridge, and be rowed to 
Richmond, passing Thames Ditton. A very delicious, 
though a rather short trip (two miles), this will be 
found The banks of the river exhibit a succession of 
pretty and handsome villas of all dimensions, with 
lawns and flower-gardens stretching to the water's 
edge. 

Excepting Richmond Park and the Cavalry College, 
there is nothing to detain the stranger, unless he is 
determined to dine at Richmond, which he can do in 
first-rate style at the Star and Garter, or the Castle, 
or the little Roebuck, for the same rate as at Green- 
wich, looking out the while upon an extensive prospect 
of luxurious grove and woodland, through which the 
silvery Thames lazily meanders. The scenery about 
Richmond has formed a fertile theme for English 
poets ; and there is, perhaps, no spot in all Great Brit- 
ain which possesses so much attraction for Frenchmen 
as the entourage of Richmond Hill. 

Three grand sights more remain, amidst a number 
of smaller ones which it would be tedious to enumer- 
ate. These are the great Derby race, the Ascot cup 
race, and the Queen's Drawing-Room. 

There are two methods of going to the races. The 
most agreeable is to make a party, and engage (which 
is accomplishable at any of the lively stables) an open 
barouche, with four horses ridden by postilions. 
Each vehicle of this kind will accommodate six per- 
sons, four inside and two on the box. There is usu- 
ally a seat behind for a servant. Take a hamper, 
containing a couple of cold roast fowls, a couple of 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WORLD. 67 

tongues, a lob3ter salad, a pie (veal and ham, or 
pigeon), six bottles of ale, two or three of champagne, 
a stone bottle of water, knives, forks, spoons, salt, pep- 
per, mustard, plates, goblets, a few napkins — and 
don't forget the cork-screw ! It costs six to eight 
guineas for the barouche and four, a guinea for a 
place on the course, and a guinea for gratuities to the 
postillions, beside the turnpike tolls and small dona- 
tions to gipsies, acrobats, Ethiopian minstrels, and 
other peripatetic mountebanks, who beset the " car- 
riage people" with importunities. A party of four 
gentlemen, taking with them two ladies, may divide 
the expense among them, and it all amounts to about 
ten dollars each. But it is a great and rare occasion J 

The other ways of going to the races are to travel 
by train to Epsom or Windsor, purchasing a return 
ticket, and either walking or going by a fly or omnibus 
to the course, and, when there, taking a ticket for the 
Grand Stand, or walking about the course, and seek- 
ing an elevated mound whence to view the races. 
Refreshments are procurable in the many booths 
erected for the occasion. The expense of this method 
of visiting Epsom or Ascot is about one guinea, and, 
therefore, more suitable to the bachelor who is not 
overstocked with money, and prefers going alone or 
with bachelor companions. Some persons prefer en- 
gaging a seat in one of the four-horse drags continually 
plying for passengers, and enjoying a cigar on its sum- 
mit. This, perhaps, is the least costly, and the most 
dusty, of all the modes of conveyance. 

The trains for Epsom run from the Waterloo-bridge 



68 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

terminus and the London-bridge terminus all day, un- 
til half-past two o'clock in the afternoon. The rush 
for accommodations is very great. The trains for 
Ascot, or rather to the nearest points, Slough and 
Windsor, run from the Waterloo and the Great West- 
ern termini. 

The Derby race comes off at Epsom about the 20th 
to the 24th of May, on the Wednesday of the Epsom 
week. It brings together some thirty to forty well- 
trained colts, the property of the most opulent noble- 
men and country gentlemen. Soon after this volume 
shall be in the hands of the tourist, it is not improba- 
ble that a sporting American gentleman, Mr. Ten 
Broeck, will carry off the prize, which is seldom of 
less value than £5,000 ($25,000), irrespective of the 
private wagers that may be laid on the issue, and 
which have ere now put $150,000 into the pocket of 
the winner. The " Derby" is emphatically a British 
institution. People go from all parts of the world to 
witness the gay and eccentric scene which the course 
and the road to the course exhibit. The national 
senate — the Houses of Lords and Commons — suspends 
its sittings ; offices are closed ; a holiday is given to 
clerks and workmen ; the newspapers are filled with 
illustrations of the event ; carrier-pigeons are dis- 
patched from the ground, to notify the occurrence, to 
the metropolis ; and the electric wires flash to the ex- 
tremity of Europe intelligence that will decide the fate 
of many a turf gambler, and satisfy the burning curi- 
osity of many an enthusiast. 

The Ascot Cup day is less remarkable for the con- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 69 

test for the cup than for the circumstances which at- 
tend it. Being distant from Windsor Castle but five 
miles, through a road remarkable for its loveliness, 
Royalty has, for many a year, made a point of honor- 
ing the course with its august presence ; and, perhaps, 
no prettier procession can be anywhere seen than that 
of the carriages of the sovereign and her husband, each 
drawn by four horses, the coachmen, groom?, outri- 
ders, even to the Master of the Buck Hounds (an earl 
or duke), clad in scarlet coats. They enter the course 
at some distance from the Grand Stand, and can then 
be seen coming gracefully down and stopping at the 
" Royal Stand," where the Queen, Prince Consort, 
and the rest of the distinguished family alight, and 
take up their places to witness the races. In the in- 
terval of the running, the public congregate in front 
of the Stand, and have thus a good view of the whole 
Court. 

But it is at a Drawing-Room, and particularly at a 
Queen's birth-day Drawing-Room, that the most bril- 
liant assemblage of " beauty, rank, and fashion," is 
beheld. On such an occasion the ladies wear their 
most costly jewels, and attire themselves in the richest 
material. The gentlemen appear in court dresses of a 
by-gone age, with rapiers at their sides ; the judges 
come in wig and robe ; the officers of the army, navy, 
and militia, the lieutenants of counties, and the foreign 
officers, appear in the dress costume of their rank ; the 
ambassadors blaze with gold and silver embroidery ; 
and not unfrequently a native Indian prince, chieftain, 
or dethroned monarch, appears in gold brocade, cash- 



70 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

mere shawl, and silken turban. The ensemble is daz- 
zlingly magnificent. 

As American ladies and gentlemen who have been 
presented to the President of the United States are 
eligible for reception at the levee of the Prince Con- 
sort and the Drawing-Koom of the Queen, a few words 
regarding the modus operandi may not be out of place. 

The course is simple. Application having been 
made to the American Minister, and his assent to the 
presentation being obtained, nothing more is requisite 
than that the parties should possess themselves of two 
large white cards, on each of which the name of the 
presentor and the presentee should be inscribed in 
large and distinct characters, and the cards then sent 
under cover to the Lord Chamberlain. One of these 
cards is shown to the Queen and the Prince that their 
sanction fa mere matter of form) may be obtained, 
and the other is retained for the guidance of the 
chamberlain or usher, who calls out the name of the 
individual as he or she passes before the royal person- 
ages. Gentlemen on approaching the Queen bow, 
and raising her hand to their lips, reverently touch 
the back thereof — ladies, in performing the same duty, 
courtesy to the ground and then pass on. All is the 
work of a few seconds, for the Queen and Prince 
stand all the time, and there are sometimes fifteen 
hundred presentations. The dresses of the ladies be- 
ing long, absolutely trailing on the ground, it would 
be as well if they took a few lessons beforehand from 
some experienced friend in the profound science of 
making the proper obeisance. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 71 

There are few other places than those already 
enumerated which are worth the time and money 
spent upon them, but the Cremorne Gardens must be 
excepted from this condemnation. These gardens are 
situated at Chelsea, and may be reached by the little 
steamers from Hungerford Market, or by the Chelsea 
omnibuses which run through Piccadilly all day. 
The fare in either case is three pence (six cents). The 
gardens, which once belonged to Lord Cremorne, are 
laid out fancifully with parterres of flowers, statues, 
little bosquets in which refreshments can be had, and 
lawns. At night they are illuminated, and a succes- 
sion of entertainments is offered to the visiters. 
There is a little theatre in which ballets and panto- 
mimes are performed ; sometimes a circus, and dancing 
dogs and performing monkeys add to the popular grat- 
ification ; tight-rope dancers, archery, rifle shooting, 
aquatic tournaments, and a discharge of fireworks, 
form other agremens. Then there is an unseen sybil, 
or an invisible hermit, who, for a small gratuity, will 
tell the fortune of any curious inquirer in those terms 
of decided ambiguity which made the oracles of old 
so very puzzling to the simple folks who consulted 
their decrees. But the chief attraction of Cremorne 
to certain classes is the dancing platform, from the 
centre of which rises a pavilion filled with musicians 
and ably directed. On this platform hundreds of feet 
" twinkle" from eve till morn to good polka, waltz, 
and quadrille music. Finally, there is a hotel at 
Cremorne opening upon the gardens, where dinners 
a la carte are obtainable from mid-day until night. 



72 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

A Sunday in London partakes much of the charac- 
ter of a Sunday in the cities of America. The 
churches of all religious persuasions are open three 
times a day. To a stranger who has not been to 
Westminster Abbey on a week day, the cathedral ser- 
vice either at the Abbey or St. Paul's, or the ordinary 
service at the elegant Temple Church, will be found 
exceedingly interesting. If the taste, however, runs 
in favor of certain preachers, there will always be a 
Spurgeon or a Bel lew — a bishop of high renown, or a 
dean of great repute, to be heard in some one of the 
many places of worship in town. St. Paul'? is better 
seen on a week day, as access is then given to the 
whispering gallery, the dome, and the crypt which 
contains the remains of Wellington and Nelson. 

After luncheon, a walk through Pall Mall and 
St. James* street, up into Berkley and Grosvenor 
Squares, and Park Lane, will familiarize the eye of 
the stranger with the noblest mansions of the titled 
aristocracy of England, and those splendid institutions, 
the " Clubs of London." The chief of these are the 
" Army and Navy," the " Athenaeum," the " Carlton," 
the {i Reform," and the " Conservative." The exter- 
nal and internal architecture of these palaces is gener- 
ally of the Italian order, lacking nothing of the rich- 
ness of the palazzi of Florence and Genoa in their 
palmy days. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 73 



SCOTLAND AND THE NORTH OF ENGLAND. 

The round of London sights being exhausted, a 
trip to Scotland is deemed a sine qua non by all who 
are familiar with Walter Scott or Robert Burns, or 
with the history of a land distinguished for the loyalty, 
bravery, and enterprise of its sons, and the varied 
beauty of its scenery. 

The most advisable route to take is that which em- 
braces the greatest number of remarkable places, and 
affords the best excuse for a prolongation of the jour- 
ney. "We recommend the Eastern counties to begin 
with. The terminus is at Shoreditch, about three miles 
from Piccadilly, where we suppose the stranger to be 
located. Take a ticket to Cambridge. The Univer- 
sity of Cambridge has nearly as many recommenda- 
tions as Oxford ; but inasmuch as the colleges at both 
places are built on the same principle, and conducted 
after much the same manner, it will suffice to visit 
King's College and the Fitzwilliam Museum, and to 
walk through the grounds on the banks of the river 
Cam. From Cambridge on to Peterborough. Look 
at the cathedral, and in an hour or so more on to 
Newcastle — a rare old town modernized — the capital 
of coal, three million tons of which commodity, one of 
the sinews of England, are annually exported. To a 
4 



7 1 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

person interested in manufactures, shipping, and many 
of the elements of commercial strength, Newcastle will 
present inducements for a stay of some two or three 
days. The aspect of the town, when viewed from the 
summit of the acclivity on which it is built, is in itself 
a curious panorama. Thousands of houses laid out 
in handsome streets, but blackened by the ever-smok- 
ing coal from factories, the Tyne filled with shipping, 
creeping its dingy course to the sea, the docks, the old 
donjon keep of Robert Cur those, and the venerable 
old churches, the markets and hospitals, rivet atten- 
tion. But a more minute inspection reveals scenes of 
even greater interest. The glass houses and potteries, 
the coal pits, the manufactures of iron, steel, engines, 
and woollen cloths, all announce that Newcastle is one 
of the mightiest towns of Great Britain, well deserving 
the notice of the American whose country has risen 
to greatness by the commercial activity which has 
evolved its own abundant resources. 

From Newcastle we speed to Edinburgh, and alight- 
ing at the Waverley terminus, call a cab and are 
whisked, with our baggage, either to the Waterloo, 
the Royal, or the Douglass hotel — the latter the most 
elegant and expensive, the former the most econom- 
ical, and where prompt attention and civility are 
assured. 

The Waterloo hotel stands in Prince's street, a long 
range of houses extending west and east a distance of 
a mile and a half. The south side of this handsome 
street, which consists of shops, dwellings, clubs and 
hotels, faces the curious old town of Edinburgh, 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 75 

known as " Auld Reekie," from which it is separated 
by a broad ravine crossed by two or three bridges. 
At the west end of this venerable aggregate of lofty 
houses, the locality of so many romantic and histori- 
cal incidents, stands the ancient castle, dominating the 
old and new towns and the environs. This picture 
alone is worth coming to Edinburgh to see. Turning 
the eyes from the evidences of the past and look- 
ing eastward toward the result of modern taste and 
liberality, the spectator beholds the Calton Hill stud- 
ded with classical monuments, the High School with 
its Grecian facade, the Post-Office, Waterloo Place — 
all remarkable for the efforts of the architect to give 
to Edinburgh the appearance of " Athens " revived. 
A walk along Prince's street to the west end opens up 
views of noble squares, commemorative columns, grand 
churches, superb libraries, institutions, and the grace- 
ful monument raised to the memory of Sir Walter 
Scott. After promenades in other directions, make an 
acquaintance with Holyrood Palace, Arthur's Seat, 
the interior of the old Tower, the University, and the 
inner walls of the Castle, beneath the battlements of 
which a glorious scene is spread before the spectator. 

Two days of industrious walking complete our ac- 
quaintance with the exterior of Edinburgh. Our bill 
is paid at the Waterloo, and we find that it amounts 
to just what we have been accustomed to pay else- 
where, though we have had the luxury of eating 
" Finnen baddies," kippered salmon and honey, in per- 
fection reached nowhere else. We don't spend much 
money in specialties, for excepting the tartan wood 



76 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

snuff-boxes, paper-knives, screens, and lady's boxes, 
and the Colin Campbell breast-pins, representing dag- 
gers and claymores in cairn gorum, silver and gold, 
there is nothing to bring away in memory of the town. 
Away, now, to Melrose by train. We are there in 
an hour, and hiring a fly we visit the famed Abbey 
and Abbotsford, gaze at the silver Tweed and the 
various little spots which the genius of Walter Scott 
has made sacred and poetical. Returning to Gala- 
shiels we dine and sleep. A commercial man will look 
at the woollen manufactures of Galashiels, and having 
satisfied his curiosity in that regard, will engage a car- 
riage and drive to' Peebles. The drive will occupy 
three hours at least, and the hire of the carriage will 
cost twenty to thirty shillings English. But what an 
insignificant sum when the gain is considered ! The 
whole road is excellent and the scenery thoroughly 
Scotch, within view of the Cheviot Hills, and skirting 
the murmuring Tweed. At intervals various and curi- 
ous spots are passed which have some reference to the 
romances, lays, and ballads, of which this land has 
been the scene. Peebles is a small town which has, 
within the last year or two, acquired great importance 
from the mnnificence of Mr. William Chambers, one 
of the illustrious brethren to whom the public owe 
Chambers' Journal, and many other useful works. 
Residing at Glenormiston, two or three miles from 
Peebles, he lately purchased a large building in the 
town, which had belonged in old times to the noble 
Queensberry family, and having greatly improved and 
altered it, he has established a ll Chambers' Institute," 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD, 77 

with a large reading room, a spacious hall for county 
purposes, and a library, in the latter of which Mr. 
Chambers has placed no fewer than 10,000 volumes, 
comprehending every kind of literature. This inesti- 
mable gift will inevitably attract many students and 
others to Peebles, where, amidst lovely scenery and 
perfect quietude, they can drink deep of the Pieriaa 
spring. 

Dismissing the carriage at Peebles, after a stroll and 
quiet dinner at the only hotel in the High street, the 
route is taken to the railway station, and tickets en- 
gaged for Poslin — half an hour's journey. Koslin 
Castle and Chapel have a world-wide renown. Walk- 
ing from them, through an umbrageous thicket of tall 
old trees, and tangled shrubbery which skirts the bold 
rocks and crags overlaying a pebbly stream, we 
reach Hawthornden, a singularly romantic spot, where 
cavernous excavation speaks of the days when men 
worshipped in secret holes, or concealed themselves 
from their enemies. The subterranean apartments in 
the castle, the exquisite sculpture of the chapel, still 
in a fine state of preservation, and the mysteries of 
Hawthornden, have been sung by poets, and immortal- 
ized by local historians. There is a railway station at 
Hawthornden, whence in three quarters of an hour 
Edinburgh is reached. A long summer day has thus 
been passed most agreeably. 

On the morrow we take the train to Stirling, as- 
cend to the castle, survey ^he bold and champaign 
country from the battlements, and see the Highland 
recruits at drill, in the peculiarly handsome costume 



78 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

of their regiments. From Stirling — having glanced 
at Linlithgow Castle, and Falkirk, en route from Edin- 
burgh — the train is engaged to Callander, and then by 
coach to the romantic Trosachs, contiguous to which 
is Loch Katrine, the charming scene of the " Lady 
of the Lake ;" Loch Lomond, and its vicinity, sug- 
gestive of Hob Roy Macgregor. We revel in the noble 
scenery and its touching associations ; and if we should 
nave forgotten the lines which these romantic pictures 
illustrate, our boatmen will repeat them to us, in the 
genuine dialect of the North. At the southern end 
of Loch Lomond is Balloch, where the convenient 
train is ready to convey us to the busy city of Glas- 
gow, whose " bodies " with Bailie Nicol Jarvie at 
their head, have acquired immortality through the 
touch of the "Magician's" Wand. Glasgow is very 
unlike Edinburgh in its architectural pretensions, yet 
its antiquity and great commercial importance, the 
monuments in its squares and cathedrals, its athe- 
naeum, university, and halls, and its contiguity to the 
"bonnie Clyde'' entitle it to reverential attention. 
In fact, every part of Scotland to which allusion has 
been made, and other parts less accessible, to the north- 
east as far as Aberdeen, and the northwest as far as 
Inverness, are instinct with interest. But time is ne- 
cessary to visit all. 

Seven days have elapsed since our supposed depart- 
ure from London, and we have got rid of forty-five dol- 
lars, not including what may be spent in guide-books, 
nick-nacks, &c, the cost of which it is impossible to 
estimate, depending as they must upon caprice, taste, 
and the inclinations of the traveller. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 79 

It has been said, in a foregoing page, that, on ar- 
riving at Glasgow from America, a route to London 
may be taken, by reversing that which is here suggest- 
ed. The reader will perceive the feasibility of this 
course. Beginning at Glasgow, he goes in succession 
to Lochs Lomond and Katrine, Sterling, Edinburgh, 
Newcastle, Peterborough, and Cambridge. 

There is, however, another route back to London, 
which will infallibly be selected by the stranger, who has 
gone to Scotland by the northeastern route, and who 
desires to see as much of the beauty of England as 
can be comprehended in the period he has allotted to 
himself. We mean the route via Carlisle. The Cali- 
donian Line runs direct from Glasgow to the ancient 
city of Carlisle — : a city celebrated in the history of 
Scotland, for the successfnl siege of King David in 
1312, and the surrender to Prince " Charlie" in 
'45 — and now deriving its prosperity from the coast- 
ing trade, and the manufacture of ginghams and cot- 
ton goods. At Carlisle, the train is quitted, and en- 
gaging a carriage, the traveller drives through the ex- 
quisite lake districts, to the u time-honored" Lancaster. 
Windermere, Derwent Water, Ullswater, and some 
others of the sixteen lakes, introduce the stranger to a 
description of scenery of a very different character 
from any hitherto here seen, The inns in the district 
are comfortable, and the roads good. The cost of trav- 
elling and being lodged in Cumberland and West- 
moreland does not exceed what has been supposed to 
be the average expenditure of the tourist in England. 

From Lancaster, the northwest railway runs to 



80 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

Bradford and Leeds, whence there is a line southerly 
to Sheffield. Each of these manufacturing towns 
offers something curious to the American merchant. 
Leeds is made wealthy by its woollen works, and 
Sheffield has no compeer for its cutlery. 

Travelling toward London from Sheffield, it is im- 
portant that a halt should be made at Chesterfield, 
with a view of driving to Chatsworth, in Derbyshire, 
the magnificent mansion and park of the Duke of 
Devonshire. The most striking features of Chats- 
worth are the beautiful collection of works of sculp- 
ture from the chisels of the most celebrated modern 
statuaries, aud the gigantic conservatory planned by 
Sir Joseph Paxton, the author of the Crystal Palace 
design. This conservatory is three hundred feet long 
by one hundred and forty feet wide. That historical 
association may come in aid of the natural and artifi- 
cial beauties of the exquisite sejour, it may be men- 
tioned, that Mary, Queen of Scots, was for thirteen 
years imprisoned in Chatsworth House, which stood 
on the site of the present splendid building. 

Derbyshire is replete with beautiful spots, and has a 

just renown for its spas, but we must not forget that 

we are on the way to London, with other objects in 

view. On, then, to Derby, and Leicester, famous for 

its lace and gloves ; and stopping for an hour or two 

at Northampton, the great emporium of boots and 

shoes, we get thence to London in two hours and 

a half. 

Three or four days have elapsed since Glasgow was 

left, and thirty-five dollars have parted company with 

tho tourist. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD 8* 

It is time to direct attention to the Continent of 
Europe. Five or six weeks have passed over our 
heads since quitting New- York, and we have not yet 
seen Paris. 

A glance at the tourist's memorandum book will 
show that he has probably spent two hundred dollars 
by this time, exclusive of his passage to Europe, and 
he will compute his resources for the continental tour 
and be guided accordingly in his choice of routes. 

4* 



82 Norton's hand-book to f.urope; 



FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 

THE way is very much cleared for the would-be 
tourist in France, by his taking with him the con- 
viction that " Paris is France." There can be no 
mistake about the fact ; every Frenchman will tell 
you so, even though he be a native of another town or of 
a village in the South or the North. Nevertheless there 
are certain remnants of antiquity in the northern parts 
of la belle Finance, and some scenery in the southern 
provinces, which the lover of the picturesque and the 
student of history will deem deserving of notice. But 
Paris is undoubtedly the chief point — the grand centre 
of attraction, and to Paris we accordingly proceed. 

There is very little choice between the Boulogne or 
the Calais trip. The former is made from Folkestone, 
and is twenty-nine miles in length — the latter is some 
seven miles shorter. The journey from London to 
Folkestone occupies two hours and a half (express 
train) and to Dover some ten minutes more. Folke- 
stone boasts a fine hotel, the Pavilion, contiguous to the 
point of departure ; Dover has also its fine hotels, the 
Ship and the Lord Warden, and is overlooked by a 
venerable castle and cliff which have poetical and his- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 83 

torical associations. The departure of the steamer, 
however, which depends upon the tide, must, after all, 
regulate the route of the traveller, and he will have so 
little time left after eating a meal and looking after his 
luggage, that were the attractions of either Dover or 
Folkestone of sufficient moment to detain him, he really 
would be unable to spare the requisite minutes. As 
for the routes from Calais or Boulogne, it will suffice 
to say that they are equally monotonous and do not 
impress the traveller favorably with either the charac- 
ter of the country or the condition of the people. The 
only town at which the rail trains stop, to enable the 
passengers to take refreshment, is Amiens, which there 
is little time and less occasion to see. It is very old 
and dull, and that is all that can be said for it. 

Supposing that we conclude to go to Paris via 
Folkestone and Boulogne. 

The first thing to be done is to send to the South- 
eastern railway office, in the Regent Circus, Picca- 
dilly, for a through ticket, taking care to have first class 
to Folkestone, and second class tickets from Boulogne. 
The reason for this is, that the English second class 
carriages are for the most part detestable, while those 
of France are comfortably cushioned and padded. The 
price of a " through ticket" is between two and three 
pounds sterling — say fifteen dollars, inclusive of the 
expense of the meals. The next thing to be attended 
to is the procuring French money or a letter of credit ; 
or, better still, a " Circular Note" from a banker, 
which will enable the traveller to receive his money in 
the currency of whatever country he may happen to 



84 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

be in. The bankers nearest to the central West End 
hotels are Herries & Co., of St. James street, and 
Coutts & Co., of the Strand. Twining & Co., also 
of the Strand, but farther east, will be the most con- 
venient house for persons located at the Exeter Hall 
hotel. Possibly the traveller will have provided him- 
self with a circular letter at New-York or Boston. 

Having taken care to see our passport vise before 
leaving America we have no trouble on that score at 
present. It only remains to pack our baggage, taking 
care that it shall be as light as possible, and that it 
contains some wax candles and some Windsor or 
Naples soap. Too much baggage is not only a matter 
of anxiety but one of expense also. A single trunk 
and a carpet-bag ought to suffice for a gentleman, two 
trunks and a small sac for a lady. Let band-boxes 
and hat-boxes be eschewed — they are sure to be either 
lost or crushed. A forage cap, that will go in the 
pocket, for a gentleman, and a knitted hood or Nubia 
for a lady, will be the best wear in the carriages. The 
hat and bonnet can be suspended by one of those little 
contrivances which may be bought in New- York for 
twenty-five cents. 

Twelve hours after leaving London, supposing the 
departure of the steamer from Folkestone to correspond 
with the arrival of the trains, the traveller reaches 
Paris. The same time is occupied on the Dover and 
Calais route. 

And here we may pause to refer to other routes to 
the superb metropolis of France. 

It may be that the American has taken passage at 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 85 

New- York for Havre. In such case it is to be hoped 
that he has not about his person, or in his trunks 
which he carries, any tobacco or sealed letters, for such 
contraband wares involve pecuniary lines and the con- 
fiscation of the article. Let him be prepared also to 
hand his passport to one of the soldiers who greet him 
as he lands, with the significant assurance that he is 
now under a despotic military government. Fifty 
commissionaire accost the passenger with cards of the 
hotels for which they tout, each of course tendering the 
most positive asseveration that the hotel he represents 
is the very best in the town. But the reader will 
have learned from the captain of the steamer or ship 
which takes him over, the names of the most respecta- 
ble hotels, and he will be safe to go to either of them, 
giving his passport and the key of his trunk to the 
commissionaire who will do the needful and bring all 
safely to the hotel. 

Havre is emphatically the Liverpool or the New- 
York of France. If the port has been selected be- 
cause of the business our traveller may have to transact, 
he will have abundance of time to see all that the old 
town presents of the notable. If, however, he is bent 
on making the best of his way to the capital he must 
be content with a view from the principal pier, which 
has been justly said to be "one of the finest in the 
world, obtained so near the level of the sea." To the 
left lies the lake of the Seine, terminating at Quille- 
boeuf, and opposite is Harfleur, surrounded by and 
standing beneath a perfect wood. 

Two methods of proceeding to Paris are open to 



86 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

the traveller. There are steamboats and there is a 
railway. The latter is the most expeditious, and as 
the route follows, for the most part, the course of the 
Seine, few of the beauties of Normandy on that line 
are lost to the spectator. He stops, of course, at 
Rouen, a city of great antiquity, replete with features 
of interest. A large portion of Rouen is composed of 
old and gloomy houses, forming narrow and irregular 
streets. These have a charm for the lovers of the 
picturesque and. the admirers of powerful contrasts. 
There is nothing like them in the Western Hemisphere. 
Still more attractive is the grand old Gothic cathedral, 
with its ruinous facade, carved in the middle of the 
sixteenth century, and presenting such a rare multitude 
of objects that the eye becomes confused in essaying 
to separate them. Enter this cathedral. The " dim 
religious light' ■ cast from the old stained glass windows 
discloses many chapels and tombs. The famons Rollo 
the brave, Duke of Normandy, whose memory the 
whole province reveres, lies here — so does his cele- 
brated son, William Longue-Epee. There is a painting 
over the altar-piece representing the adoration of the 
shepherds, which justly receives a large share of the 
admiration of connoisseurs. Superior in beauty and in 
antiquity to the cathedral is the church of St. Ouen, 
begun in 1318 and finished two hundred years later. 
It has not, however, the pretensions founded upon asso- 
ciations, which belong to the cathedral. There are 
two or three other churches in the town, erected at 
different periods, but of more interest than these is the 
monumental statue to the memory of Joan of Arc, the 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 87 

Maid of Orleans. It is erected on the spot, in the 
Place la Purcelle, where she was executed by the Eng- 
lish. The writer of these pages, visiting Rouen many 
years since, and being attracted by the statue, without 
observing the inscription, asked an old woman, who 
was reading Corneille at her apple stand, what it indi- 
cated. " Quoi" she exclaimed, " vous ne savez pas f 
(Test le monument de la pauvre fille que vous autre Anglais, 
betes que vous etaient, out brules quatre cents annees passees/" 
The indignation of the venerable apple-vender illus- 
trated the regard in which the memory of the inspired 
Maid is held by the inhabitants of Rouen. Corneille 
was born at Rouen, and, in like manner, his fame is 
cherished by the people. Once a year, the anniversary 
of the birth of the great dramatic poet is celebrated at 
the theatre. The house in which Corneille was born 
is shown to the stranger. 

Walk down to the Q'tai de Havre on the river's 
bank, to get a view of the town, and then resume the 
journey, or the voyage, as the case may be. 

Should the tourist have been to England in the 
first instance, and have motives for sailing from New- 
Haven to Dieppe, he will necessarily go from Dieppe 
to Paris by the Rouen route. The circumstances 
stated above will therefore be a guide to him. 

PARIS. 

Whither shall we resort ? What hotel, in this city 
of superb hotels, shall we honor with our patronage? 
There is Meurice's, which the English have affected 
since 1814 ; there is the Hotel Richepanse, famous for 



88 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

its table d'hote ; the Bedford, of high renown ; the 
Louvre, the largest, handsomest, and most complete — 
and there are a hundred others much less expensive, 
less cleanly, and less convenient. If the reader has 
no choice, we say, decidedly, select the Hotel du Louvre, 
and if that house be full try the Richepanse. At the* 
Louvre, you can choose the Stage or floor on which 
you will sleep, paying high in proportion to your con- 
tiguity to the basement. On the third floor an ex- 
cellent apartment is obtainable for two francs — a 
franc being exactly the fifth of a dollar — a fact to be 
noted. For wax lights and soap a charge is made. 
It will be advisable, as already hinted, to lay in a 
small supply of these articles in London, for at a Paris 
hotel such items swell the bill amazingly. The Hotel 
du Louvre is very elegantly furnished ; the table d'hote, 
at which one thousand persons sometimes dine, is 
upon a liberal scale, and the reading-rooms are abun- 
dantly supplied with newspapers and periodicals from 
all parts of the globe. Private lodgings may be had 
cheaper than rooms at a hotel, but a stranger who 
only meditates staying a week or so, and who is con- 
tinually in need of information and attendance, will 
do much better to give the preference to a hotel. 

The passport bekig delivered to the manager of the 
bureau or office of the hotel, and the body refreshed 
after the long journey, attention is turned to the 
" sights" of Paris. Happily we have not to go over 
the same space of ground as in London, for not only 
is the French capital of lesser dimensions than its sis- 
ter across the channel, but all the chief ooints of 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 89 

attraction in Paris proper are more concentrated. Still, 
a little system is necessary with a view to economy of 
time and cash. 

Then let a commencement be made in a promenade 
through the principal streets. The Hotel du Louvre 
stands in the most magnificent of all the streets in the 
known world, the Rue tie Rivoli — a succession of pala- 
tial dwellings colonnaded in front and faced with 
stone — the opposite side of which is occupied by the 
gallery of the Louvre, and the palace and gardens of 
the Tuileries. The Rue de Rivoli is two and a half 
miles long, connecting the Hotel de Ville with the 
Faubourg St. Antoine. Walk along the Rue de la 
Paix. This latter, striking from the gayety and ele- 
gance of its shops, in which all the peculiar taste of 
the French for tasteful arrangement finds full develop- 
ment, leads to the Boulevards, which encircle a very 
large portion of the town, their left and right extrem- 
ities resting upon the Seine. The broad pavement of 
the Boulevards, flanked with trees on one side and a 
thousand shops of ail kinds and dimensions on the 
other, are more striking to an English than to an 
American eye, because, in London, the rus in urbe is 
unknown, save in a few squares at the West End of 
the town where a small collection of stunted trees and 
dwarf shrubs announce in their scanty foliage the re- 
luctant arrival of summer in town. At one extremity 
of the Boulevards stands the church of La Madeleine, 
an edifice in the style of a Roman temple, unrivalled 
in the chasteness and beauty of the architecture. No 
fewer than fifty-two Corinthian columns, sixty feet 



90 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

high and six in diameter, all fluted, form the peris- 
tyle of this captivating building. Fortunately it 
stands apart from other structures, and is thus seen to 
the greatest possible advantage. We defer entering 
for the present, as we do not wish to break the morn- 
ing's walk. Opposite to the Madeleine is the Rue 
Royale, a noble, spacious thoroughfare, where many of 
the government offices are situated, and at its extremity 
lies an open space called the Place (or square) de la 
Concorde — the most superb and tasteful spot in all 
Paris. The surroundings of this exquisite locality, 
consisting of the Seine and its bridges, the Champs 
Elysees or Elysian Fields — a fashionable park — and a 
crowd of lofty and magnificent buildings, present a 
rare coup oVceil ; but the Place is in itself a curiosity 
and a fine spectacle. Its history is singular. Origin- 
ally called the Place Louis XV., it contained in its 
centre — it being then as plain an aifair as Union 
Square, New- York — a bronze equestrian statue of 
Louis XV., which was voted by the city of Paris after 
the peace of Aix la Chapelle. The anti-monarchical 
spirit of 1792 destroyed the statue, and in its place 
arose the terrible guillotine beneath which fell the 
beads of Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and many of 
the French nobility. When the reign of terror was at 
an end, a plaster column dedicated to the goddess 
Liberty supplanted the guillotine. Napoleon raised 
a more enduring column, and named the place La 
Concorde. The restoration of the Bourbons revived 
the title Place Louis XV., only to give way, under the 
reign of Charles X., to a new title — that of Place 



OR, HOW TO THAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 01 

Louis XVI. But the revolution of 1830, which placed 
Louis Philippe upon the French throne, led to the 
restoration of the title which the Place now bears. 
Louis Philippe did much to adorn Paris, and es- 
pecially did he lend enchantment to this luxurious 
part of the town. He caused the area 750 feet by 
528 to be paved — he placed in the centre an Egyptian 
obelisk of immense antiquity which the Pacha of 
Egypt gave to the French government for its instru- 
mentality in forming the arsenal and naval establish- 
ment of Alexandria. On either of two sides of the 
obelisk Louis Philippe raised two beautiful, gushing 
fountains, embellished with emblematic figures of 
river deities. Forty magnilicent gas candelabra illu- 
minate this charming square, which is further deco- 
rated with colossal statues representing eight of the 
cities of France. 

From this point the walk may be extended to the 
Champs Elysees ; or, reserving that for a future drive, 
the stranger may retrace his steps to the Rue de la 
Paix, and passing the gardens of the Tuileries, and 
then walking up to the Place Vendome — a handsome 
square in the middle of which stands a metal column 
snrmounted by a figure of Napoleon I. The Place 
Vendome, like that of La Concorde, has undergone some 
mutations, though it has retained the name, for 
France is naturally proud of its famous marshal. 
Louis XLV. intended that the five buildings which oc- 
cupy the sides of the square should have been ap- 
plied as public offices In the centre was a bronze 
equestrian statue of himself ; but it did not survive 



92 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

the democratic fury of the first French revolution. 
The dilapidated pedestal, however, held its place until, 
in 1806, Napoleon, flushed with his victories over the 
Austrians and Russians, from whom he had taken 
some hundred pieces of cannon, converted his trophies 
into the column which now graces the capital. The 
bas-reliefs on the column are worth examination. 
They represent, in order of date, all the incidents of 
the memorable German campaign, in figures three 
feet high, winding around the spiral shaft. Inasmuch, 
however, as the column is 130 feet high, the binocular 
glasses will be useful in following them to the summit. 
From the Place Yendome, we turn back en route to 
the Hotel du Louvre ; but, instead of entering the ho- 
tel, we proceed to the Palais Royal. This is a mag- 
nificent quadrangle, the centre of which is planted 
with trees, and the sides form arcades filled with gay 
shops, restaurants, offices, theatres, etc. It has not 
been occupied as a palace since the latter end of the 
last century, and only derived the appellation " Royal" 
from the circumstance of its having been bequeathed 
by Richelieu — in whose day it was called the Palais 
Cardinale — to his sovereign. The Due d' Orleans con- 
verted the palace, in the last century, into a series of 
arcades and shops, and for a long time gambling and 
every other description of vice was carried on to an 
enormous extent, in the apartments immediately above 
the places of business. So late as the reign of Charles 
X, (1830), the Palais Royal was synonymous with the 
abode of infamy. It is now an innoceut and seduc- 
tive place of resort. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 93 

We have walked enough — we are tired — we have 
appetites. Allons, which of the restaurants shall we 
select for a dinner? Here are Very's, Vefour's, and 
Les Trois Freres Provencaux. There are plenty of 
gargotes or smaller places, where we can eat, after a 
fashion, for thirty sous (a quarter of a dollar), or less. 
But people come to Paris to dine — to test the claims 
of French cookery to the high reputation which it 
bears, and expense is no object, for once in a way. 
The carte, however, is a difficulty. It offers a vast 
variety, but the nomenclature of the dishes is scarcely 
intelligible to the tourist. Look in at the windows — 
all the riches of the larder are displayed before the eye 
of the outsider. Fish, flesh, and fowl, are arrayed in 
tempting profusion. It is more easy to determine 
what we shall not eat than what we shall select. By 
no means have anything to do with French beef; and 
French fish (excepting oysters) is not good for much. 
Suppose we have some carrot soup after our raw oys- 
ters — some Maintenon cutlets — a roast fowl, with a 
salad or mayonnaise a la Basse (quite a first-class affair) 
— a Charlotte pudding, some apple-jelly, ice-cream, 
fruits — the pears and strawberries are very fine — and 
coffee without milk or sugar. For wine, a bottle of 
Beaume, and one of champagne, winding up with a 
chasse, in the shape of a glass of cognac. After that, 
the Emperor may have leave to dine. One thing, 
however, we must observe, in the interest of economy 
and common sense : order no more than can be eaten. 
The French restaurants are so liberal in their treat- 
ment of customers that when three persons form a 



94 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

party, it is customary to order soup, cutlets, pudding, 
etc., for two persons — paying only for two. If you do 
not find that what is brought you suffices, it is very 
easy to call for more, and pay accordingly. 

Having dined, if the weather be very fine, adjourn 
to the garden of the Palais, and paying a sous or two 
for a chair, smoke a cigar, and enjoy the lively scene. 
As evening closes in, should you not be too tired, step 
into the Theatre Francais, or the Theatre du Palais 
Royal, where capital acting is sure to be seen. No- 
where in the world is the dramatic art carried to so 
much perfection as in France. Actors there are proud 
of being artistes, and though the stage cannot always 
boast of a Talma, a Mars, or a Rachel, it never thor- 
oughly degenerates. The government supports the 
theatres to a certain extent, which is a guarantee for 
their continuance in proper hands. Elsewhere, thea- 
tres are too often leased by men in desperate circum- 
stances, or of small capital, who try experiments on 
public taste and public patience, which generally end 
in failures. At the Theatre Francais, the highest char- 
acter of French tragedy and comedy — the works of 
Racine, Corneille, Boileau, Moliere, Casimir De la 
Vigne, Scribe, and other poets and comic writers — may 
be seen, always, however, of the Jiaute ecole. At the 
Palais Royal theatre is to be had the broadest de- 
scription of farce, presenting caricatures rather than 
exact types of French manners. But the foolery is 
capital — the actors and actresses are unrivalled for 
their fun, and the audiences highly appreciate their 
ability. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 95 

After a general survey of Paris, we may devote our- 
selves to details. On the second day cross over to the 
glorious Louvre, after breakfasting at the hotel on cap- 
ital coffee and boiled egg?, and seeing the guard mount 
in the square of the Tuileries. In the first day's wan- 
derings about the streets, Cuirassiers, Dragoons, Impe- 
rial Guards, Guides, Chasseurs, Zouaves, and Infantry 
of the Line, will have been met by hundreds ; but the 
French soldiers must also be seen on pafade. They 
have not the firm, solid step and regularity of move- 
ment of the New- York National Guard, or the British 
Guards and Line, but their easy, jaunty air satisfies the 
spectator that they could again go through an Italian 
campaign, and win more Montebellos, Magentas, and 
Solferinos. It may chance that the Emperor will 
have a field-day during our stay in Paris — so much the 
better ; in the meanwhile see the guard mounting. 

The gallery of the Louvre is to Paris what the 
British Museum, and the National Gallery, and the 
South Kensington Museum, combined, are to London 
— only that is more extensive and more elegantly dis- 
posed. Nothing is demanded in the shape of an ad- 
mittance fee. A catalogue, however, costs a franc or 
two. The visitor must not be disappointed if he does 
not find every part of the gigantic Louvre occupied 
with works of art. It is only within the last eight 
years that the noble design of Napoleon I., to connect 
the old Louvre with the Tuileries, has been carried 
out by his imperial and resolute nephew ; and the 
space occupied by the new buildings is so enormous, 
that it will be long before they can be properly filled. 



96 NORTON S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

In the inspection of the gallery of the Louvre and 
its unique museum, the visitor must be guided by the 
circumstance of time. There is, in the accumulated 
sculpture, excuse for the consumption of many days. 
The pictures of the finest French, Italian, Spanish, 
and other masters, challenge long scrutiny. The An- 
nunciation, by Murillo, will transfix the connoisseur 
for an entire day. The Naval Museum is replete with 
interest ; equally captivating is the Salle de la Renais- 
sance ; and the architecture of the New Louvre, stud- 
ded with statues of all the illustrious men of France, 
will fascinate the student of modern history, and en- 
chant the man of taste. 

It is fatiguing to walk about picture and sculpture 
galleries for an entire day. Therefore, on leaving the 
Louvre, engage a cabriolet or voiture de place, and be 
driven up the Rue Vivienne that you may see the 
Bourse (Exchange) in passing to the Maison d'Oree, 
on the Boulevards, where you must dine. The cab- 
riolet, with four persons or less within it, costs one 
franc and ten centimes the course, or journey, be it 
long or short ; to which must be added five sous 
(equal to five cents) for a pour boire — in other words, 
a gratuity to the driver that he may get " something 
to drink. " This application in France for a pour boire, 
in Italy for a buono mano, is as great a nuisance as the 
buksheesh demanded by the Arab. It is the tax im- 
posed by a slavish people, who are never above beg- 
ging, upon the good nature of a more elevated class of 
society ; and as it has grown into a custom, no one 
objects to pay it. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 97 

After dining at the Maison d* Oree, so called from 
the quantity of gilding within and without the edifice, 
it will be worth while to walk down the Boulevards 
to the Porte St. Martin theatre. This theatre has 
acquired a world-wide reputation for the manner 
in which melo-dramas and historical plays are put 
upon the stage and acted. The genius of Frederic 
Le Maitre and Madame Dorval has lent am importance 
to a style of composition which is objectionable, ad- 
dressing itself more to the passions than the judgment 
of society ; but as it supplies the originals from which 
the English and American stage has largely borrowed, 
the theatre is assuredly a curiosity. 

The third day cannot be better employed than on a 
visit to the Hotel des Invalides, the grand military asy- 
lum, corresponding with the Chelsea Hospital of Great 
Britain. It stands at the northwestern extremity of 
the Faubourg Saint Germain, immediately fronting 
the river, and opposite the Champs Elysee3. Between 
four and five thousand veterans are located in this no- 
ble building, many of them having served under the 
first Napoleon whose memory they still treasure. Le 
petit caporal will live for ever a household word 
among the French whose families did not suffer by 
the overthrow of the Bourbons. The hotel was pro- 
jected and built during the reign of Louis XIV., who 
seems to have originated the greater portion of the 
magnificent public institutions of Paris, and whose 
effigy decorates the arch in the centre of the frontage 
of the building. The court-yard of the Invalides is 
surrounded with arcades and galleries. There are 

5 



98 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

four dining halls, each 150 feet in length, and the 
kitchens contain two monstre coppers in which the 
dinner for the day — soup and bouilli — is dressed. As 
much as 12001bs. of meat can be cooked at once in 
each copper. The church of the Invalides is divided 
into two parts, one of which consists of a nave with 
side aisles supporting a gallery resting upon Corinthian 
pilastres, and the other of a rotunda surmounted by a 
lofty dome measuring 323 feet from the pavement to 
the summit of the cross by which it is topped. The 
exterior of the dome is very imposing — the interior 
of the church is decorated with portraits of some of 
the Marshals of France, and a few flags captured from 
the enemy in different campaigns. In a crypt under 
the dome is an object of more interest, perhaps, to the 
stranger than any other part of the Invalides. This is 
the tomb of Napoleon I. Yielding to the wishes of 
the French people in the time of Louis Philippe, the 
British government allowed the remains of the Ex- 
Emperor to be removed from St. Helena, and they 
are now deposited in the magnificent receptacle pro- 
vided for them in the military asylum. The tomb 
which covers the sarcophagus containing the ashes of 
the once mighty Emperor, consists of an immense 
monolith of Finland porphyry. The vault is lighted 
by funereal bronze lamps which disclose twelve colos- 
sal figures, each representing one of Napoleon's vic- 
tories. A gallery encircles the crypt above, and 
therein is a recess termed the Chapelle Ardente, in 
which lie the crown of gold voted to him by the town 
of Cherbourg, the sword he wore at Austerlitz, cer- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 99 

tain insignia, flags taken in battle, and a statue of the 
Emperor in his imperial robes. There are some 
models in the Military Asylum worth looking at — and 
the old heroes are, in themselves, a study, with their 
breasts decorated with the St. Helena medal. 

The old cathedral of Notre Dame — an illustration 
of passages in French history and of Victor Hugo's 
romance — may be visited on the day when the In- 
valides is seen, and it will not be out of the way to 
enter the handsome structure once known as the 
Chamber of Deputies. Victor Hugo's description of 
the cathedral is the best that could be given. If the 
reader will turn to the attractive volumes of that 
imaginative writer, he will find the pleasure of his in- 
spection of the Notre Dame enhanced by its associa- 
tion with the story of Esmeralda. The building is 
very ancient, and has suffered much from the hand of 
Time and the recklessness of revolutionary mobs, but 
it still possesses many features of interest. The 
Chamber of Deputies no longer bears that appellation. 
It is known as the Palais Bourbon, and accommodates 
the Legislative Assembly. The interior is extremely 
chaste, and well adapted to the object of the building. 

There will be time after luncheon, say at the Cafe 
Durand, near the Place de la Madeleine, to take a drive 
down the Champs Eli/sees, to the Bois de Boulogne ; — the 
favorite promenade of the Parisians in fine weather. 
The Champs Elysees consist of three avenues, the cen- 
tral being an avenue of trees extending for a consider- 
able distance on either side of the road, terminating 
with a splendid triumphal arch called the Arc de 



100 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

FEtoile. To the left, at the commencement of the 
Champs Elysees, is the Palace of Industry {Palais de 
Plndicstrip), erected by a company in 1852, to receive 
the quinquennial exhibition of the manufactures of 
France. The palace is of iron, faced with stone, on 
which are carved allegorical devices. To the right, 
embosomed in the trees, in the Avenue de Marigny, 
are several elegant dwellings of the nobility and am- 
bassadors ; and about half way up the central avenue 
(De Neuilly) we come upon an equestrian circus, called 
the Cirque de F Imperatrice, and two or three enclosed 
pavilions resembling the Cremorne Gardens in London, 
but in better taste, and called severally the Chateau des 
Fleurs and the Jardin ffHiver. Here also are sundry 
Cafes Chantants, where open-air concerts take place, 
and many indications of a country fair, such as dan- 
cing dogs, mountebanks, acrobats, and ropedancers, are 
seen. On a beautiful summer's eve there is no gayer 
sight than the Champs Elysees. All Paris then seems 
to have turned out for recreation. While the wealthy 
and the titled, the elegant and fashionable, occupy the 
centre of the avenue, the bourgeoisie of the town fill up 
the woody portions and give themselves up to the 
innocent frolics of the hour. Chairs are let out for 
two sous to those who prefer sitting by the roadside to 
observe the gay procession of carriages of all sorts, 
from the stylish landau to the modest gig, and the 
swarms of equestrians and pedestrians of both sexes. 
It is not unusual to meet the Emperor and Empress 
during the evening promenade, His Majesty often on 
horseback — the Empress in an open carriage. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 101 

Passing under the Arc cle VEtoile, and turning to the 
left, a drive of less than a mile brings us to the Bois cle 
Boulogne, a handsome, beautiful and extensive park, 
composed of avenues of trees, rides and walks, lakes, 
cascades, villas, restaurants and cafes. The whole of . 
the fashion of Paris resort to the Bois cle Boulogne as 
regularly as do the Londoners to their Hyde Park ; but 
though the trees in the French park as yet lack the 
age which imparts grandeur to the walnut and chest- 
nut plantations of London, the entire scene is infinitely 
more cheerful and varied. 

Returning to the hotel, the luxury of a bath which 
can be had in the hotel for a couple of francs, will be 
no bad preparation for the table d'hote dinner, after 
which a gentleman may stroll into the Boulevards or the 
Palais Royal and see some of the Cafes — a great fea- 
ture of Paris life. There are cafes where chess is 
played — others (called estaminets) where cigar-smoking 
is universal, — there are a few in which dominoes, news- 
papers, and other kinds of fugitive literature, are to 
be found and, in all, excellent coffee, ices, and brandy, 
may be had at reasonable rates. In the warm weather 
great numbers of persons sit outside the cafes, enjoying 
the air and the passing scene. At night the cafes are 
brilliantly and tastefully illuminated. Ladies are not 
admitted into these territories ; it is doubtful if the 
prohibition were taken off whether many would feel 
disposed to avail themselves of the privilege of the 
entree. 

The palace of the Luxembourg is the next object 
demanding attention. Built for Marie de Medicis, this 



102 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

Parisian " lion" is, in its architecture, worthy of an 
age in which the wealth of a nation was lavished on 
voluptuous kings and their haughty queens. Like 
other palaces, it has undergone many nominal trans- 
mutations in its time, and has served the purposes of a 
prison, a senate, and a dwelling. Its name has been 
changed half a dozen times to suit the power and the 
purpose of the moment, and is even now called by one 
of its old denominatives, Le Palais du Scnat. It is an 
imposing structure, " remarkable for the beauty of its 
proportions and its solidity.' ' Affluence of decoration 
is its inner characteristic. Nowhere is there such a 
profusion of statues, busts, paintings, frescoes, flags, 
velvet, and gold. Here the memory of all the great 
men of France receives due honor in the carved repre- 
sentations of their persons ; here too are works from 
the pencil of Poussin and Eubens, Horace Vernet, 
Dclaroche, Gignoux, and many others, natives of 
France. The eye becomes positively fatigued with the 
contemplation of this sumptuous Palais — and seeks 
relief in the gardens of the Luxembourg. These gar- 
dens, like the rest in Paris, do not boast the luxurious 
and abundant foliage of those for which the British 
metropolis is remarkable, for the simple reason that, 
ever since the first Revolutions, it has been the prac- 
tice with the infuriated and reckless populace to cut 
down the finest trees, either for barricades or firewood. 
The Prussians and Cossacks likewise did something in 
this Vandalish way in 1815. To atone, however, for 
the absence of old arborial embellishments, the gar- 
dens of the Luxembourg boast the finest rosary in the 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 103 

world. From spring until autumn two thousand vari- 
eties are in continual blossom. 

The rest of the day, after an inspection of the 
Palais du Luxembourg, cannot be better spent, if it be 
Thursday, than in a visit to the Musee cVArtillerie and 
the Conservatoire des Arts et de Metiers. In the former 
is a fine collection of arms and armor of all ages, and 
numerous models of guns and gun carriages, together 
with an equestrian figure of Francis the First. Take 
notice that this museum can only be seen by strangers 
on Thursday, between the hours of twelve and four, 
and the passports must be produced. It mny here be 
stated that the passport of the stranger should always 
be carried with him on his promenades about Paris, 
as the production of that document secures free admis- 
sion to all the public (national) buildings. The Con- 
servatoire des Arts et des Metiers is, as its name implies, 
a receptacle for models of all modern machinery con- 
nected with the arts and manufactures. 

Drive, by way of a change, to the Rocher de Can- 
cele, in the Hue de Montorgueil. Nowhere do you get 
Norman oysters, or shell fish of any kind, in such per- 
fection. After dinner, whether wearied or not, the 
visitor cannot give himself a greater evening treat than 
by going to the French Opera — the Academie, as it is 
called. All the finest works of Auber and Meyerbeer 
were first produced at this temple of Euterpe, and the 
ballet is likewise seen in perfection. 

Having now seen the greater portion of the sights of 
Paris, it will be well to devote a day to Versailles — 
if two days can be spared so much the better, for the 



104 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

Gallery alone is worth an entire day at the very least. 
Indeed, it is quite impossible to see Versailles satisfac- 
torily in less than two days. There is not in the 
whole world so vast a palace and such extensive gar- 
dens, nor such an amazing collection of works of art 
of the highest character, applied to the commemoration 
of great deeds and mighty men. 

There are two lines of railway between Paris and 
Versailles, one running on the left and another on the 
right of the river Seine. Proceeding by one line and 
returning by another the visitor of Versailles is enabled 
to obtain two excellent views of Paris, Leaving at 
about 9 a. m., Versailles is reached before 11 a. m., 
the hour when the gates are opened to the public. 

One of two methods of seeing and enjoying Ver- 
sailles is open to the visitor. He can either engage a 
guide at the entrance of the palace near the chapel, 
paying him one franc an hour, or purchase a compre- 
hensive guide-book. The latter is the most indepen- 
dent method, and possesses the advantage of enabling 
the stranger to linger over striking objects and recur- 
ring to them at his leisure. 

It would be vain in this place to attempt even a 
meagre description of Versailles. It must be seen to 
be understood ; seen, too, with vivid recollection on 
the mind of all the leading incidents of the French 
history, and especially of those which relate to the 
momentous reigns of Louis XIV., XVI. , and Napo- 
leon I. Let it suffice to say, that here is to be wit- 
nessed an extraordinary succession of galleries, apart- 
ments, corridors, chapel?, theatres, museums, filled 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 105 

with pictures, delineating the chief historical events ; 
with statues of poets, philosophers, statesmen, sover- 
eigns, and of the heroic Joan of Arc, the last-named 
having been carved from the marble by a daughter of a 
king ; with busts of remarkable individuals ; with ancient 
beds and curious drapery ; the cedar gates from Rhodes ; 
tombs, shields, tapestry, marbles, and bronzes, curious 
clocks, frescoes, chairs, tables, &c. Every apartment 
speaks of kings and their courtiers, of ministers, of 
queens and their favorites ; of hours of voluptuous 
enjoyment, of deeds of blood, of treason, and tyranny, 
and intrigue. Miles of ground are covered in the prom- 
enade in the interior ; and still there are the gardens 
to see — gardens apparently of illimitable extent, laid 
out in plantations and alleys, bowers, flower-beds, 
orangeries, fountains, basins of water, from the centre 
of which rise allegorical groups in bronze, pavilions, 
walks, arbors, marble statues, in short, everything 
that can dazzle the eye and delight the fancy. 

In the quiet little town of Versailles, contiguous to 
the palace, there are hotels and restaurants where the 
visitors can breakfast, dine, and, if necessary, sleep, at 
a charge corresponding with those which are made in 
Paris for similar entertainment. If only one day can 
be spared for the visit to Versailles, the morning should 
be occupied in the palace, and the evening, after din- 
ner, to the gardens. 

Six days have now been consumed. Let us suppose 

that the seventh is the Sabbath. Heginning the day 

very early, we may assist at the ceremony of mass at 

the Madeleine, and admire the interior of that chaste 

5* 



106 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

and beautiful edifice. Later in the morning, it will be 
proper to attend divine worship in the Protestant 
Chapel of the British Embassy, if the traveller be an 
Episcopalian, then hieing to St. Sulpice, he may gratify 
his sight with the interior of one of the handsome old 
church 3S of Paris. A dejeuner a lafourchette, in other 
words, a good meat breakfast, being taken at any one 
of the restaurants in the vicinity, it will now be advi- 
sable to get into an omnibus and be driven to the cem- 
etery of Pere la Chaise, a place of world-wide fame 
where French grief takes forms as bizarre as French 
merriment. Nevertheless, amidst a variety of gro- 
tesque images and inscriptions, will be found numer- 
ous handsome and appropriate monuments to distin- 
guished merit, and very many touching evidences of 
the love that children bear to parents, parents to chil- 
dren, brothers to sisters, husbands to wives, and so on. 
The promenaders up and down the avenues of this im- 
mense aud interesting cemetery, will constantly have 
their steps arrested by the occurrence of names with 
which they may be familiar. Almost all the celebri- 
ties of France lie here. Poets and painters, soldiers 
and statesmen, dramatists and astronomers, authors 
and advocates, repose side by side. The most pictu- 
resque and interesting monument in the cemetery, is 
that of Abelard and Heloise, whose strange love has 
supplied the poet with a theme. The reader will 
remember the epistle beginning — 

44 In these deep solitudes and awful cells," &c 

Returning from Pere la Chaise to an early dinner, 
a trip can be made en voiture to the Palace of St. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 107 

Cloud, the summer residence of the Emperor, and a 
very favorite place of resort with the humbler classes, 
especially upon those days when les eaux (the cascades) 
in the park have been announced to play. The 
palace, itself, possesses many objects of admiration in 
the shape of architectural details and paintings, but 
the gardens and park are the chief sources of delight 
to the masses. From the summit of an elevated hill 
in the park, a beautiful view is obtained of the valley 
of the Seine, or rather of Paris and the surrounding 
country. A spectacle worth coming to see, is a large 
collection of groups of happy people, who assemble 
here on a serene summer's eve, to dance, and sing, and 
enjoy themselves after their own manner. 

The remaining sights of Paris may be briefly enu- 
merated. There is the Morgue, a specialty designed 
to afford the sorrowing survivors of those who drown 
themselves, or are drowned in the Seine, an opportu- 
nity of recognizing the deceased. The Morgue is a 
small building on the banks of the river, having an 
inclined plane of black marble in the centre, on which 
the bodies dragged out of the water are placed for 
inspection by the public, from whom they are separa- 
ted by a glass wall. If the bodies are not speedily 
recognized, they are interred at the cost of the govern- 
ment, or given over to the hospitals for the purposes 
of dissection. The Morgue stands on the Quay of the 
New Market. And, by the way, the markets of Paris, 
particularly the flower markets, and the Marche des 
Innocens, should not be passed over. They are spa- 
cious and skilfully, as well as tastefully arranged. 



108 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

The Expiatory Chapel in the Rue du- Temple, is also 
deserving of notice, because it stands upon the site of 
the "Temple," which was once a fortress belonging to 
the Knights of St. John, and afterward became the 
prison of the unfortunate Louis XVI., and his poor 
wife, Maria Antoinette. 

There are many minor objects meriting notice, but 
these are so certain to fail under the observation of 
the lounger in Paris, that it is almost a piece of super- 
erogation to indicate them particularly. Such are the 
arcades called the Passages and Galleries, connecting 
certain streets, and offering in their tasteful shops, a 
glittering assemblage of the world's products ; the 
grand gates on the Boulevards, known as the Fortes St. 
Denis, St. Martin, and St. Antoine ; two or three 
fountains, the Statue of Moliere, the July Column, the 
Arsenal, the Military School, the Bridges, and the 
River Baths. 

Eight or nine days having been passed in Paris and 
the environs, it will be for the tourist to determine if 
his time will admit of a prolongation of his stay. 
Should he have the leisure, a trip to St. Germain's, and 
another to Fontainebleau, winding up with a walk in the 
gardens of the Tuileries, and another stroll on the 
Boulevards, will pleasantly fill up three more days. 
St. Germain's does not possess a palace worth looking 
at ; its chief recommendation is the view from a fine 
terrace, 7,200 feet long, and 90 feet broad. Rich vine- 
yards slope from this terrace, down to the banks of 
the Seine. There is a large forest behind the terrace, 
inviting to shady walks, and solitary meditations. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 109 

Fontainebleau has far superior attractions to St. 
Germain's. It is not easy to describe this delightful 
place within a page. It deserves a volume to itself. 
The " American in Paris" published a few years since, 
is rapturous in its praise, and his fervid admiration 
forbids a descent to the dry commonplaces of an 
ordinary guide-book. Fontainebleau must be seen 
with a poet's eye, and described by a poet. " Every- 
where — in the chateau, beyond the chateau, in their 
thousand interminglings of stone and turf, of marble 
and flowers, there is a natural appearance of majesty 
and grandeur. The chateau itself is magnificent, 
affluent, and natural, like French genius. Strange 
and happy assemblage of all kinds of things ; orna- 
ments without end, sculptures without motive, caprices, 
chances, decorations — turrets, towers, arrows, master- 
pieces 1" It was at Fontainebleau that Madame de 
Mamtenon found a suitable retreat. It was here where 
Napoleon I. signed his abdication and bade adieu to 
his Old Guard. At Fontainebleau resided Francis I. 
The gardens and forest speak of the reign of Henry 
IV. Yet there is nothing antique in the appearance 
of the chateau and its surroundings. The hand of 
improvement, restoration, and repair, has been con- 
stantly at work and always tasteful in its cunning. 

Hitherto we have only considered the dulce in our 
treatment of Paris and its environs. A wovd on the 
utile will not be out of place. The best method of 
drawing money on the continent of Europe has been 
described, but little has been said regarding the cur- 
rency. English and American money is seldom re- 



110 Norton's hand-book to europe; 

ceived in shops ; it should therefore be changed at the 
bureau of the money-changers, or at the hotel, for its 
value, or an approximation thereto, in French coin. 
Gold obtains its full value — silver suffers a heavy dis- 
count of four or five per cent. The monetary system 
in France is decimal, the franc being the unit, divided 
into ten parts called decimes — which are again subdi- 
vided into ten parts, called centimes. Thus a hundred 
centimes go to a franc. The value of the franc is ten 
pence English, and is therefore equivalent to one fifth 
of a dollar. It is important for an American trav- 
eller to bear these facts in mind, as the circumstance 
of the U. S. dollar being divided into one hundred 
cents might occasion mental confusion. Five French 
centimes are only equal to the American cent. The 
centime is an imaginary coin. The lowest copper 
coin is the sou, which is equivalent to an English half- 
penny, an American cent, or five French centimes. The 
only other copper coin is the decime, of two sous or ten 
centimes. The silver coinage is divided into pieces of 
20, 50, and 100 centimes (the latter being called the 
franc, or piece de 20 sous), two-franc and five-franc 
pieces. The gold coins consist of 5, 10, 20, 50, and 
100 franc pieces ; the 20-franc pieces are called Napo- 
leons. There are no French bank-notes of a lower 
value than 100 francs. 

The Pdst-office in Paris is well conducted, and the 
deliveries are frequent. The General Office is in the 
Rue (Street) Jean Jacques Rousseau. Americans who 
have not agents or correspondents in Paris should 
cause their letters to be addressed to them, "Poste Res- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. Ill 

tante, Paris" They can claim them on the presenta- 
tion of their passport which establishes the identity of 
the applicant. The cost of a letter from France to 
the United States is, per French steamer, fifteen cents 
the quarter ounce. The post-office is open every day. 

Should the reading-room of the Hotel du Louvre or 
the cafes fail to supply the newspapers coveted by 
Americans, it is not impossible that they will be found 
at the office of Galignani's Messenger, which is conducted 
by Englishmen who are distinguished by their cour- 
tesy to strangers, or at Fowler's American bookstore, 
Palais Royal. 

Our time is up : we have " done" Paris satisfac- 
torily, and it is time to be moving South. On refer- 
ring to our memoranda we shall probably find that 
we have now been nearly two months out from Amer- 
ica, and have spent altogether, including our passage, 
five hundred dollars. 

But before the route to Italy is sketched, let us try 
back and see what there is to be seen, instead of going 
to Paris by way of Havre, Dieppe, Calais or Boulogne, 
we take the route from London to Antwerp. 

BELGIUM. 

In the selection of this route it is indispensable that 
our passport be vise, by the Belgium ambassador. 
That, and the other preliminaries to a continental 
trip being duly arranged, it is optional whether to 
take the route to Dover and cross to Calais, or go 
direct from London by water. The latter course in- 
volves more sea-travelling, but affords a better oppor- 



112 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

tunity than any other for seeing the .banks of the 
Thames to its very mouth, and a part of the shores of 
the county of Kent. Steamers leave London for Ant- 
werp every Sunday and Thursday, and the voyage oc- 
cupies between twenty and twenty-four hours, of 
which about half are engaged in traversing the sea, 
and the remainder in making the trip down the 
Thames and up the Scheldt. 

The fares are, for the chief cabin £2 2s. (ten dollars 
and a half) ; for the second cabin £1 125. 6d. — two dol- 
lars less. After passing down the Thames, seeing 
Gravesend, Southend, and Sheerness (the Nore), the 
steamer enters the German Ocean, and crossing over 
enters the Scheldt. On the left hand of this river is 
the swampy and unhealthy island of Walcheren, 
where so many thousand English perished of fever 
after an unsuccessful attack on the town of Flushing 
at the mouth of the Scheldt. Opposite to Walcheren 
stands Cadsand, memorable in English history for the 
defeat of the Flemings by Sir Walter Manny. The 
land is very flat in this vicinity, and continues so until 
Antwerp is reached. Nothing but a few forts and 
embankments are seen on either side of the river. 

Antwerp will amply repay a day's stay. The Hotel 
Rubens, in the Place Verte, or Green Square, in the 
centre of which stands a colossal statue of Rubens, is 
as good an inn as can be selected. There is a table 
d'hote every day at 5 p. m. French money is current 
here and throughout Belgium. The salient features 
of Antwerp are the fortifications, the noble cathedral, 
the museum or academy of painting, and some few 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 113 

smaller churches. In moving about among the pic- 
ture-galleries the stranger will be surprised at the ex- 
traordinary number of familiar works that will every- 
where meet his eye. No painters have had their 
productions so extensively multiplied as Rubens, Van- 
dyck, and Teniers. In the cathedral is the master- 
piece of Rubens, the Descent from the Cross ; likewise 
the Elevation of the Cross and the Assumption of the 
Virgin, with others. In the Museum, admission to 
which is obtained for one franc, from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m., 
there are fourteen pictures from the pencil of Rubens, 
six by Vandyck, one by Quintin Matsys, one by 
Teniers (the well-known " Boors smoking"), one by 
Titian, and several by superior painters. Rubem 
lived and died at Antwerp — hence the value attached 
to his works. His house is shown to the visitor. 
But the Antwerp of his time was not the Antwerp of 
to-day. Then, Antwerp enjoyed immense commer- 
cial prosperity — now, its streets, quays, and exchange, 
are totally deserted. The grass grows in the slreets, 
and the silence is only broken by the occasional pas- 
sage of an omnibus. The single feature of interest 
next to the churches, galleries, and fortifications, is 
the architecture of the Hotel de Ville and the Bourse, 
both of which were erected in the days of the city's 
pride, i. e., in the middle of the sixteenth century. 

In forty minutes after quitting Antwerp the railway 
train conveys the tourist to Malines or Mechlin, once 
famous for its lace, which has now been superseded 
by the finer fabrics of Brussels. Nothing but an in- 
satiable passion for cathedrals and churches could in- 



114 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

duce a stoppage at this dull town. It were better to 
continue the route to Brussels which is reached in 
thirty-five minutes. We see Lacken, the residence of 
the King of the Belgians, en route to Brussels ; and 
can drive thither after our arrival if it be deemed 
worth while to see more royal parks and gardens. 

Brussels, the capital of Belgium, is a pretty little 
town — a sort of miniature Paris — and is attractive 
from its connection with events in the history of 
Europe during the fifteenth and nineteenth centuries. 
Of the eight or nine hotels which the town contains, 
the principal is the Hotel de Flandre, where an excel- 
lent table d'hote is kept. The charges for board and 
lodging at the hotel are not greater than at other ho- 
tels in Brussels. The person who does not drink a 
bottle of wine (Bordeaux) at his dinner will find his 
expenses reach about nine francs a day — less than 
two dollars. At the Hotels de Hollande and Kreuz- 
nock, inferior inns, accommodation may be obtained 
for six francs. The special sights at Brussels are few 
in number. A walk about the town — or rather of 
the towns, for it is divided into the upper and lower 
town — will introduce the spectator to two descriptions 
of architecture — the Gothic, peculiar to the period of 
Flemish greatness and Flemish degradation, and the 
very modern : — the former finds its finest illustration 
in the Hotel de Viile, the latter in the palace of the 
King, the Prince of Orange, and the houses of the 
ambassadors. There is a palace garden, in humble 
imitation of the gardens of the Tuileries, and Lillipu- 
tian Boulevards surround the town. There is not 



115 



much statuary to captivate the eye. An equestrian 
figure of the famous Godfrey de Bouillon is the only 
piece of sculpture possessing any merit. Perhaps the 
central object of interest in Brussels is the Museum, 
which is open to the public on Sundays, Mondays, and 
Thursdays. A small fee (a franc) is payable for ad- 
mission. Pictures by Rubens, Neefs, Gerard Douw, 
and others of the old school, and a number of paint- 
ings by modern Belgian artists, make up, with a col- 
lection of objects of natural history, the principal con- 
tents of the Museum. Some of the churches are 
worthy of notice, and especially St. Gudule, which 
contains a very curiously carved pulpit, and the 
chapel of St. Sacrament des Miracles. Those who 
believe or disbelieve in the miracles with which the 
priesthood in former times delighted to cajole the 
people, will be edified or amused, as the case may be, 
with a sight of the Miraculous Wafers which spouted 
blood when penetrated by Jewish daggers some time 
in the fourteenth century of the Christian era. The 
visiter to Brussels and Antwerp may be supposed to 
carry with him a familiarity with the history of the 
Low Countries before and during the Spanish do- 
minion, and will thus find an extra source of pleasure 
in embellishing the principal localities with souvenirs 
of the great events of the fifteenth and sixteenth cen- 
turies, and of the anxious period which immediately 
preceded the battle of Waterloo in 1815. The day 
being passed in inspecting Brussels, not omitting a 
visit to the Theatre de la Monnaie in the evening, the 
second day must be devoted to a drive to 



116 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 



THE FIELD OP WATERLOO. 

Engage a carriage, called a voiture de remise. In- 
cluding the fee to the driver, and the turnpikes, the 
cost is less than five dollars — say twenty francs. The 
price of a cab, which holds but two persons, is ten 
francs only. The distance of the field from Brussels 
is about twelve miles, by the road which in June, 1815, 
was the scene of the retreat of the scared and the re- 
moval of the wounded. Alight at Hougomont, the 
farm and orchard which formed the scene of the most 
desperate encounters of the memorable day. Several 
men approach the carriage as it nears the field, offer- 
ing their services to show all the remarkable spots. It 
is useless to give, in this place, the names of men who 
may have left their vocations, or " shuffled off this 
mortal coil, ,, before the traveller can reach the scene 
of their industry. If the landlord of the Hotel de 
Flandre cannot recommend any one in particular, it 
will be well, when the field is reached, to accept the 
services of the guide who can make himself the most 
intelligible in English* The price to be paid for 
" lionizing" Waterloo is four francs. Make the stipu- 
lation beforehand, or the guide will be exorbitant in 
his demand when his work is at an end. 

The field of Waterloo is now so much changed in its 
general aspect, that it will not be easy for the most 
diligent student of the various accounts of the great 
battle that have been published, to distinguish the pre- 
cise spots of the " moving accidents'' of the day. The 
form of the ground is not changed — it is still undula- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WORLD. 117 

ting and cultivated ; but it has been built over in some 
places, and monuments supply the place of deadly 
rencontres. Ascend the mound on which the Belgic 
Lion stands, and gaze at the field from the elevation. 
It was on this spot that the young Prince of Orange 
fell wounded. There is a painting representing the 
event in the International Art Institution of New- 
York. From the summit of the mound, 200 feet 
above the plain, the guide can point out the locality of 
many incidents of the strife, and the imagination of 
the spectator can picture the events described. Among 
the monuments and farm-houses on the field, to which 
attention will be directed, are La Haye Sainte, La 
Belle Alliance (both farms), the house of Coster, Napo- 
leon's guide, the grave of Shaw, the lifeguardsman, 
the iron monument to the memory of the Prussians 
who fell in the action, etc. 

The inspection of the field occupies three hours, no 
more time than is requisite to rest the horses. Re- 
freshment may be obtained at a restaurant at one of 
the farm-houses, but we do not recommend it. The 
charges are high, and the meat and cookery inferior. 

On the morning of thg third day, the journey to 
Paris is resumed, and soon accomplished. 

[In the foregoing, only a part of Belgium has been 
traversed, so as not to interfere with the main object of 
the traveller, which is presumed to be, the getting to 
the French capital. If a more extensive tour through 
Belgium is considered desirable, the route should be 
taken from Antwerp to Ghent, and thence to Bruges, 
returning, via Courtray and Lille, to Brussels. Ghent 



118 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

and Bruges are singular old towns, full of souvenirs 
and ancient churches ; but the country is a level sur- 
face, and only picturesque in its association with the 
cattle and windmills of Cuyp, the boors of Teniers, and 
some of the wars of Marlborough and Wellington.] 

Now get your passport vise by the Sardinian and 
Austrian ministers. 



SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 

It was dreary enough to travel through France to 
Italy when the diligence or private carriage were the 
only recognized methods of transport. The dead level 
of the scenery, offering no better variety than an alter- 
nation of avenue and plain, rendered the journey 
tedious and monotonous. We have not improved our 
chances of getting a glimpse of the plains and alleys, 
with the poor diversification of a few stiff vineyards, 
since the railways have been opened to the south ; but 
we get along with greater rapidity, and this is an un- 
questionable gain, for where there is little to see, the 
more speedily the desolate country is passed the bet- 
ter. Auxonne, Dijon, Neufchatel, and Lyons, are the 
cities which lie on the track to Geneva. As there is 
nothing like them in or near Paris, it may not be 
amiss to stop at one or the other, for the purpose of 
becoming acquainted with the character of French 
provincial towns, always supposing that the traveller 
considers that the acquisition of an addition to his 
stock of topographical knowledge, will counterbalance 
the inconvenience of removing his luggage, spending 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL 12* THE OLD WORLD. 119 

more money, and procrastinating his journey to Italy. 
We wish to enter Italy across the Alps. Indeed there 
is no other way, unless you run down to Marseilles, 
and coast it to Genoa. And we wish to see as much 
as possible in the course of the journey ; because we 
may not return by the western line of country at any 
future time. When we have got to Dijon (say that it 
has been determined to spend a few hours at a resting- 
place), we are in the ancient capital of the Duke of 
Burgundy, and we, of course, take a walk through the 
town. It is well built and well paved. In the Place 
d'Armes, or Place Eoyale, stands the old palace of the 
dukes. In the Museum we pay our respects to the 
marble tombs of Philippe le Hardi and his sou, Jean, 
Duke of Burgundy. A gallery of paintings, and some 
ecclesiastical reliques, are to be found in the Museum. 
The merchant, on his travels, will possibly be induced 
to look into the small factories of cotton, wool, and 
silk ; and the reader of Walter Scott will not fail to 
remember that the Duke of Burgundy, contemporary 
with Louis XL, played a conspicuous part in Quentin 
Durward. # 

From Dijon, the alternative of going to Neufchatel 
or Lyons presents itself. The railway en route to the 
former place, only runs to Salins, near the gorge of 
the Jura ; the rest of the journey is effected by dili- 
gence. Neufchatel is the chief town of a small Swiss 
canton, situated among the ridges of the Jura. The 
King of Prussia is the sovereign of Neufchatel. The 
vicinity of this place is historically interesting, from 
the defeats which Charles the Bold experienced at the 



120 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

hands of the Swiss. The cathedral and the chateau 
of the ancient princes of Neufchatel adjoin each other. 
The former is 700 years old. All the scenery about 
Neufchatel is of the grand order, and the curious in 
manufactures will here find themselves among the 
makers of watches and the makers of wine. Steamers 
go from Neufchatel, on the lake, to Yverdun, twice a 
day. From Yverdun there is a rail to Lausanne. 

Say that we take the way to Lyons from Dijon, for 
the sake of visiting the finest manufacturing town in 
France. It is 316 miles from Paris to Lyons. The 
expense of the journey by rail is : first-class, 56 francs 
and 80 centimes ; by second-class, 42 francs and 60 
centimes. The time occupied is sixteen hours, exclu- 
sive of stoppages. The expense increases with the 
stoppages. Travelling express to Lyons reduces the 
journey to eleven hours or rather less. 

The best hotel in Lyons, for accommodation and the 
picturesque scenery which it commands, is the Hotel 
de £ Europe. The most noticeable objects in the city 
inviting the ordinary tourist, are the Cathedral, the 
Hotel de Ville, the Library, the Museum, and the Ob- 
servatory. But he who goes to Lyons to see the silk 
manufactories will be quite embarrassed where to 
choose. There are no fewer than seven thousand fac- 
tories within the walls of the city. Ask the landlord 
of the hotel which is the largest or the best managed, 
and go there accompanied by a guide, who will charge 
three francs for two or three hours' service. Lyons is 
beautifully situated at the confluence of the Seine and 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 121 

the Rhone, — the Rhone which Hannibal passed in the 
face of opposition in his daring invasion of Italy. 

Geneva is one hundred miles from Lyons. There 
is a rail all the way — the fare by first class is seventeen 
francs and ninety centimes — second class, thirteen 
francs, forty-five centimes. Five hours and a half are 
consumed in the journey. Geneva suggests watches, 
Calvin, and Jean Jacques Rousseau. The little town, 
with its population of thirty thousand, is very pleas- 
antly situated on the slopes of two hills which are 
divided by the Rhone. The traveller has the choice 
of eight or ten hotels. The Hotel tie la Metropole is the 
largest and fitted up a V Angla'se. For a slender purse 
the Hotel da Lac or the Lion d Or are more to be com- 
mended. A short promenade familiarizes us with the 
town and the statue of the author of the " Confes- 
sions* ' — and a call upon two or three of the watch- 
makers will enable us to see how those delicate little 
timepieces, which have for many years past been the 
companions of gentlemen and ladies in Europe, Asia, 
and America, are fabricated. 

And now for Lausanne. If the night is passed at 
Geneva, we can embark in the steamer which leaves 
at 7 a. M., and boil and bubble up lovely lake Leman 
(or Geneva) immortalized by the muse of Byron, stop- 
ping at Chillon — the scene of one of the poet's most 
touching compositions. There is a strong temptation, 
when referring to such places, to give loose to a little 
poetic fervor and quote considerably ; but we have 
neither space for such indulgence, nor any desire to 
display much ability in "index-hunting." The reader, 

6 



122 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

acquainted with Byron, will readily recall the exquisite 
passages to which we allude, and the traveller who has 
never delighted in the pages of the finest and most vig- 
orous English poet since the days of Shakespeare, will 
now find a motive for supplying a deficiency in his 
literary acquirements. It was unfortunate for Byron's 
posthumous reputation, and more unfortunate still for 
the English and American nations, that his last work, 
" Don Juan," should have created so strong a preju- 
dice against him as to lead to the supposition that 
nothing that he wrote could possibly be moral or even 
unobjectionable. But for this prejudice, thousands of 
both sexes would have read the glorious epic " Childe 
Harold," and the touching " Prisoner of Chillon." 

The scenery of the shores of Lake Leman, engross 
us for the six or seven hours during which we make 
the voyage to Lausanne, or rather to the head of the 
lake, which is but a short distance from Lausanne, and 
to which we are conducted by diligence. 

Lausanne is old and irregular. The cathedral dates 
from a.d. 1000. A fine view is obtained from its sum- 
mit. Remember we have come to Switzerland to 
gladden our eyes with glorious scenery, and we must 
not therefore slight any opportunity which offers of 
getting panoramic pictures. Out of Lausanne, distant 
two miles, is the cemetery of Pierre de Place, where 
John Philip Kemble, the brother of Mrs. Siddons, lies 
buried. He was an admirable actor, and held posses- 
sion of the stage for twenty -five years after the retire- 
ment of Garrick. He was deficient of the genius or 
impulsiveness which belonged to his illustrious sister 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 123 

and to the great Edmund Kean ; but carefulness, 
scholarship, perfect taste, and correct conception, 
joined to a fine person and expressive face, atoned for 
the absence of originality. No British actor ever so 
completely and successfully impersonated Shakespeare's 
poetical delineations of Coriolanus and Brutus. His 
Cato (Addison's Cato) was also a sublime performance, 
and his renderings of Hamlet and Cardinal Wolsey, led 
Sir Thomas Lawrence and Harlowe, two great paint- 
ers of their time, to select those characters for their 
canvas. The Hamlet decorates the National Gallery 
of London. 

Let us see as much of Switzerland as time and the 
money will allow. From Lausanne we can go up to 
Bern and cross to the very pretty little town of Lu- 
cerne ; then steam down Lake Lucerne to Altorf, lux- 
uriating in the landscape of the verdant hills and lofty 
mountains and the reminiscences of William Tell. For 
do we not see on the shore of the lake, TelFs chapel 
and the field of Grutli, and is there not at the southern 
extremity of the lake the town in which Gesler com- 
manded the people to bow to his cap? All around 
us confirms the justice of "the appellation " the guards 
of liberty," given by Sheridan Knowles to the moun- 
tains of Switzerland — 

44 O sacred forms, how proud you look ! 



How high you lift your heads into the sky ! 
How huge you are ! how mighty and how free ! 
How do you look, for all your bared brows, 
More gorgeously majestical than kings 
Whose loaded coronets exhaust the mine." 



124 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

A coach from Altorf take* the Swiss tourist through 
a romantic country, crossing the Alps at Mont St. 
Gothard to Domo d'Ossola, at the head of Laggo (or 
Lake) Maggiore. But if there is any particular mo- 
tive for crossing the Alps by the Great St. Bernard 
and Mont Kosa, then we must not think of going to 
Lucerne The route from Lausanne is, by trains, to 
Martigny, and from Martigny by diligence to Sesto 
Calende, at the southern point of Laggo Maggiore. 
The lake is very beautiful — more picturesque than 
grand. 

Whichever route may be chosen to this point, there 
can be no question about the advantage of driving to 
Como. " Exquisitely lovely" is not too hyperbolical 
a phrase to apply to the scenery about the southern 
point of Lake Como. The town itself is very old and 
quiet. As usual, there is a cathedral, a Town Hall 
(the Broletto), and some remarkable gateways. Gara- 
baldi has lately added to the historical celebrity of 
Como. 

We are now in Italy — the fairest land in the uni- 
verse — a land that has produced great warriors and 
great poets, mighty painters and unequalled sculptors ; 
the land which gave birth to Columbus and Galileo, 
as well as to Petrarch and Tasso, Ratfaelle and Michael 
Angelo. The heart must be cold indeed which is not 
stirred by the first aspect of this favored land, and 
deeply impressed at a later period with the vast riches 
it contains. 

Quitting t Como, at the railway station of Camer- 
lati, and proceeding by rail for two hours and a quar- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 125 

ter, at an expense of 5 francs and 20 centimes (1st), 
or 4 francs 5 centimes (2d class), we get to Milan — 
the capital of Lombardy — and take up our quarters at 
the Hotel Marino, No. 5 Rue Marino. It is more 
centrally situated than others and not more expensive. 

The military aspect of Milan will strike the traveller 
forcibly. Austria rules in Lombardy, but has estab- 
lished no hold upon the affections of the Milanese. 
The effect of the estrangement of the people from 
their government is apparent in the deserted condition 
of La Scala, the largest theatre (excepting the San 
Carlo of Naples) in the world. The chief lion of 
Milan is the Duomo, or Cathedral. Any amount of 
enthusiasm which the sight of the chastely magnificent 
structure may excite is perfectly natural and excusa- 
ble. There is nothing to resemble it. With its nu- 
merous spires and statues, the more beautiful from the 
marble of spotless whiteness, it has no parallel in 
Europe. Nothing but the gracefully solemn Taj at 
Agra, in the East Indies, will bear a comparison with 
the Duomo. 

A couple of days exhaust Milan. We wish for 
something more decidedly Italian. Accordingly, not 
stopping at such rickety old towns as Parma and 
Placentia, we speed to Bologna, that we may see the 
Academia delle Belle Arte, the Museum of Anatomy, 
- and the Cabinet of Natural Philosophy. The town 
of Bologna is sufficiently gloomy. A succession of 
arcades, between the pillars of which thick curtains 
are suspended in the summer time, exclude from view 
the shops of the city, and give it an air of desertion. 



126 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

But the Academy — where there is a host of interest- 
ing pictures, especially by Guido, Domenichino, and 
Ludovico Carracci ; — the Academy, as Charles Dickens 
writes, "gives Bologna a place of its own in the mem- 
ory ; and even though these were not, and there were 
nothing else to remember it by, the great meridian on 
the pavement of the church of San Petronio, where 
sunbeams mark the time among the kneeling people, 
would give it a fanciful and pleasing interest." To 
which we would add, that the two ill-looking leaning 
towers are calculated to fix the place in the mind. 

From Bologna to Florence, through the wild Apen- 
nines — mountains too rude and lofty to be beautiful, 
and neither rude enough nor lofty enough to be sub- 
lime. After Switzerland they are little more than in- 
significant. Parts are cultivated, but the larger por- 
tion is barren and woody, with an occasional good 
view. 

Florence — Firenze — the City of the Red Lily — cas- 
ket of the gems of the world — the paradise of painters 
— the loadstone of Europe — the " observed of all 
observers" — the invaluable ! In sober earnest, no man 
can feel or conceive the beauty of art, or the delight it 
is capable of communicating, until he visits the inde- 
scribable and inestimable galleries of this city. Enter 
the Tribuna, in the Palazzo Pitti — the room is of mod- 
erate dimensions, and nowise remarkable but for the 
glorious works it enshrines. The pictures, few as 
they are, are worth the revenue of a kingdom. Its 
Venus de Medicis is still worshipped by votaries from 
the remotest parts of the civilized world. The young 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 127 

Apollo is still a model of beauty ; the Wrestlers, of 
muscular knowledge and vivid action ; the Fawn, and 
the Slave about to flay Marsyas, of admirable execu- 
tion and expression. 

At Florence, put up at the Grand Hotel de la Vic- 
toire, and at once walk to the Boboli Gardens, whence 
an excellent view is obtained of the whole town. 
Florence is remarkable for the beauty of its position, 
the picturesque grandeur of its buildings, its wooded 
plains, sloping hills, and majestic mountains. Many 
churches are in Florence ; but the traveller will hardly 
care to see them all. Let him not, however, fail to 
visit the church of Santa Croce, and that of San Lo- 
renzo, as it contains the Laurentinian library designed 
by Michael Angelo. The Sacristy of Michael Angelo 
should likewise be seen, for therein is the grand origi- 
nal of the statues of Day and Night, which are so well 
copied in the Sydenham Crystal Palace. The house 
of Michael Angelo, the Casa Buonarotti, recently be- 
queathed to Florence by the principal descendant* of 
the wonderful " painter, sculptor, and architect, " is 
not the least interesting of the many objects of interest 
in Florence. But paramount in importance are the 
gallery of the Pitti Palace and the Galeria Impe- 
riale e Eeale. They contain, without exception, the 
richest collection, as well as the most celebrated, in the 
whole world. It is a sad commentary on the instabil- 
ity of fortune, but not the less instructive, that these 
Palaces, or Palazzi, were once the residences of the 
members of a proud oligarchy, whose descendants have 
sunk to the extreme of poverty under the political 
changes wrought by time. 



128 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

We shall not have completed the round of Florence 
sights, unless the Machiavellian and the Laurentinian 
libraries are visited. The former contains 150,000 
volumes, and boasts of manuscripts from the pens of 
Galileo, Tasso, and Machiavelli ; — the latter contains 
the Pandects, and some MSS. of Virgil, Tacitus, Plu- 
tarch, and Dante, besides the Decameron of Boccaccio. 

It is not worth while to spend an evening at the 
Pergola theatre at Florence. The Grand Opera is 
bad, and the other houses are not better. The Flor- 
entines have not good taste enough to command good 
music. Their passion for ballet pantomime is aston- 
ishing. No concord of sweet sounds appears to pro- 
duce the effect of the stamping and face-making which 
succeed the opera; and this people, of reputed exquisite 
musical taste, after listening to the most charming 
compositions with perfect apathy, break out into ec- 
stacy at a grimace, and seem quite beside themselves 
when a pirouette exhibits rather a longer whirl and 
more ankle than usual. 

From Florence to Rome, there is no railway beyond 
Sienna or Arezzo. Take the latter route, for, if you 
have any classical ity, you will like to pass the Thrasi- 
mene lake, where Hannibal defeated Flaminius. The 
Roman consul made a great mistake in allowing him- 
self to be entrapped. Had a general of our days, 
fighting in his own country, made such a mistake, he 
would deservedly have been shot. A thousand sling- 
ers and archers, scattered in front and ranging widely 
on the flank of the consul's army, would have discov- 
ered Hannibal's plan and the distribution of his forces ; 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 129 

but to rush into such a situation as that, between the 
steep, woody hills, where the mass of Hannibal's vete- 
rans lay like lions couchant, and the lake, leaving a 
narrow pass in the rear, and having another, and a 
position most difficult to assail in front, where Hanni- 
bal baited his trap by an ostentatious exhibition of 
some infantry in battle array, was an infatuation, for 
which, as it compromised his country, the death of 
Flaminius but poorly atoned. 

Eight or nine miles of diligence or vetturino travel- 
ling brings us to Perugia, older than " old Rome." It 
is strongly and splendidly situated, on the summit of a 
hill, and has less about it of a classical than a medi- 
aeval touch. Here was born the master of the divine 
Raphael. At the foot of the hill runs the Tiber, a 
river filling the world and the imagination with its 
name. 

Nothing but beautiful country villas, porticoes, and 
gardens, on the whole road to Narni, as far as Otri- 
cole and Civita Castellana. But after leaving the 
latter place, the eye has nothing to rest upon but a 
lonely, purplish-green prairie, where the wind sighs 
mournfully through the long gras3 and the sedge of 
standing pools, while the dusky, almost neutral, tint 
of the low, barren undulations, which spread on all 
sides like the swell of a midnight sea, is unbroken by 
tree or building. Nowhere in the world has earth so 
completely gone into mourning. It is impossible to 
conceive anything more melancholy ; and it would 
seem to a fanciful mind, as if nothing cheerful or ex- 
hilarating could flourish where the ground had been 

6* 



130 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

cursed by so much human suffering as must have 
attended the dying struggles of the colossus, Ancient 
Rome ! 

As we approach Rome all is consecrated ground. 
We traverse the Flaminian way, the path of so many 
hundred triumphs. We pass the Pons Milenus, where 
Christianity conquered in the person of Constantine. 
Underneath its ancient arches the Tiber, here about 
four hundred feet in breadth, flows quick and with 
troubled waters ; beyond are the gates of the Eternal 
City. We approach the Flaminian gate. In front 
rises an obelisk five centuries older than the Christian 
era, telling the tale of Rome's triumph over the suc- 
cessors of the Pharaohs. On the one hand are the 
tombs of the church's bloody persecutors, Nero and 
Domitian ; far off, on the other, rejoicing in her mighty 
triumph, the great and glorious St. Peter's lifts its 
dome to heaven, as if conscious that it had no rival. 
On the left are the Pincian and the Quirinal hills. 
Around and stretching far ahead, innumerable domes 
and the Seven Hills, the Palatine and the Capitol — all 
objects of interest and providing food for the most 
craving imagination, as well as the most profound 
knowledge. 

We enter Rome by the Porta del Popolo and are 
driven to the Hotel oV Allemagne. There are other good 
hotels, but that of de F Europe is expensive ; and the 
Hotel de la Minerve is the resort of Roman Catholic 
ecclesiastics — a fact which our Roman Catholic readers 
may " make a note of," — for reasons the very opposite 
of those which would induce our Protestant travellers 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WOELD. 131 

to avoid the hotel. Well, we go to the Hotel d'Alle- 
magne, and completely knocked up by our journey, we 
recall Shenstone's lines and Washington Irving' s de- 
scription, and exclaim with the tired and hungry 
Frenchman " & Hotel vaut mieux que les souvenirs /" 

Romt: ! such an infinity of tomes, so many hundred 
libraries have been written about the Immortal City, 
that nothing new can be said on. the subject. St. 
Peter's, the Basilica ! who shall describe it ? Where 
and what are the wonders of the old "old world" 
compared to its beauty and majesty ? Where ever 
was, or where is there, a Temple so worthy of the 
Most High 1 Within, it is a mighty miracle — though 
without it has been spoiled by a feeble innovation upon 
a bold and glorious conception. The front of Carlo 
Maderno ruins the dome of Michael An^elo — and even 
that dome is less graceful than the dome of St. Paul's, 
in London. But were the defects ten times greater, 
St. Peter's would still be, as a whole, the most glorious 
temple on earth. The magnificent approach of sweep- 
ing and statue-crowned colonnades, the flight of 
broad stairs leading to the vestibule, like those in 
Martin's pictures or Pirinesi's dreams ; the immensity 
of the open space before the Basilica, where people 
look like ants, and the cardinal's carriage like the nut- 
shell carriage of Queen Mab ; its magnificent fountains 
pouring forth tons of water every second, each attended 
in particular lights by its own peculiar hues, and fling- 
ing up jets like the water-spouts of the ocean ; — its 
Egyptian obelisk which, perhaps, beheld in early youth 
the plague of darkness, and stood amidst the rain of 



132 Norton's hand-book to edrope ; 

fire ; these are adjuncts and accessories which no other 
church in the world possesses, and of which no other 
is so worthy. The portico is heavy — you remove a 
thick curtain, heavy as flexible iron, and enter the 
most glorious of human achievements. Who can 
describe the feelings at such a moment ? But they are 
not those of awe. What we behold is too beautiful to 
be awful — exquisite proportion, magnificent decora- 
tion, yet nothing gaudy — a profusion of all that is 
grand or splendid in ornament, yet no overloading — 
and, above all, scrupulous cleanliness, and a freshness, 
or brightness, in every part of the edifice, as if it were 
completed but yesterday. These are not adjuncts to 
excite awe or melancholy ; — those hover round the 
pyramids in the silence of the desert, or dwell in the 
moonlight ruins of the Coliseum. But in St. Peter's, 
all is beauty and glory, and light, and triumph. 

A few hours at St. Peter's may be appropriately 
followed by a few more in the Vatican. See the 
treasures of the magnificent gallery — the "Lord of 
theunerringbow" — the incomparable Apollo Belvidere, 
— the Laocoon — his 

41 torture dignifying pain, 



A father's love and mortal's agony 
With an immortal's patience blending.'* 

The enjoyment which may have been derived from 
visits to other galleries here reaches its climax. 

The remains of ancient Pome will, of course, re- 
ceive as much attention from the traveller as the mod- 
ern architectural and pictorial riches. The Coliseum, 
the columns, the debris of the forum, and the temple 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 133 

of Jupiter, are all interesting. Nor must we omit a 
drive to Tivoli, with its picturesque temple of the 
Sibyls, the Giants' Cavern, and the waterfalls ; — 
another drive to Albano, with its lovely lake and 
wooded shore, and similar places within a few miles of 
the seven-hilled city. 

It should here be mentioned that the expense of a 
vettura, a carriage and pair, which, in the absence of a 
diligence, may be employed to carry passengers from 
Sienna or Arezzo to Eome and back, and in the vicinity 
of Rome, costs from 36 to 42 francs daily. It is best, 
however, to make an arrangement with the driver, who 
will contract for everything, including locomotives, 
lodging, board, and his own buono mano, for about one 
Napoleon daily, for each passenger. French money 
passes current in Italy, but you cannot avoid using 
Italian money as occasional change. The chief coins 
in use are scudl A scudo is equal to a 5 franc piece — 
rather less than an American dollar. The lira — one 
lira being equal to 100 centisime or 8d. English — say 80 
French centimes. Twelve centisime are equivalent to 
Id. English, or 10 French centimes. In Rome and 
other parts southward, the paoli or pauls are in use. 
One paul — 8 crazie — or 5Jd. English, half a franc 
French. Ten pauls go to a scudi. There are smaller 
coins, which are useful to give to beggars, and in re- 
quital of very small services. There are the bajocchi 
(half-pence), ten of which go to a paul, and there is 
the quattrene, five of which make up a bajocchi. 

At this present writing there is a railway train to 
Frascate and Marino, and a further section will shortly 



134 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

be opened to Naples. Should this latter enterprise be 
carried out before this volume is in the hands of the 
public, there can be no possible doubt of its being 
adopted as a preferable means of going to Naples to 
that afforded by the vettura. In the opposite hypoth- 
esis, however, there is nothing for it but to engage a 
vettura and traverse the dreary Campagna, resembling 
"a stagnant lake, or a broad dull Lethe flowing 
round the walls of Rome, and separating it from all 
the world." How often have the legions, in triumphal 
march, gone glittering across that purple waste, so 
silent and unpeopled now ! The next day, after a 
short halt at Velletri, a miserable town, we cross the 
Pontine Marshes, level and lonely,, and overgrown 
with brushwood. The vetturino will tell you to keep 
awake while the causeway over these pestilential 
swamps is passed, and you will be sure to follow his 
counsel. It is said to be fatal to inhale the malaria 
while sleeping. Evening brings the carriage to a halt 
at Terracina, — a beautiful spot on the seashore. 
Those who remember the opera of Fra Diavolo, or who 
may have read any of the hundred tales of bandit life 
of which the Inn at Terracina has been the scene, will 
enjoy or otherwise their brief stay at this place, ac- 
cording to the strength of their romantic notions. We 
do not recommend the wine at this or any other hotel 
on the road. It is not made so good as it must have 
been when the Horatian muse was invoked in its 
honor ! 

The Neapolitan frontier is crossed within three hours 
travelling from Terracina. Fondi, Mola di Gaeta, and 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 135 

Capua (suggestive of Hannibal), lie on the road. 
Every step taken illustrates the force of Heber's lines : 
" only man is vile !" Nature is everywhere lovely. 
There are mountains, not lofty, but rugged and pictur- 
esque, on our left and before us ; — there is the beau- 
tiful blue sea on our right. All is soft and sunny. 
Even the costumes of the people are picturesque in 
their filth. But the inhabitants themselves ! What- 
ever can be expected as the result of bad government, 
priestly influence, natural indolence, and the prodi- 
gality of nature in yielding fruits with the smallest 
amount of culture from the hand of man, will here be 
found in perfection. Squalor, rags, pitiful sycophancy, 
vile effluvia, ruins, decayed vegetation, offal, dirt, and 
disease, in all shapes, characterize each town on the 
road-side. Even the soldiers — the miserable instru- 
ments of an effete despotism — look as if they had been 
tricked out in the wardrobe of a fourth rate theatre. 

We arrive, by a facile descent down hill, at Naples, 
or Napoli — which enthusiasm has described as the 
last spot of earth worth looking upon. Voi Napoli per 
morir. " See Naples and die." Well, we hope to live 
to speak of Naples after seeing it, for it is full of ma- 
terial for future talk and lasting souvenir. 

Let us locate at the Hotel Crocelli The guide-book 
does not falsify fact?, which says that it is one of the 
best in Italy for families or gentlemen. And then it 
commands such a view ! Before us lies the grandest 
of bays and the mysterious mount which rarely ceases 
to proclaim that fire still lurks in its bosom. In the 
very remote distance, like a huge marine monster, 



136 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

guarding the entrance to the bay, lies Capri, and there 
standing upon a cluster of rocks, to the left of the 
spectator, is the ruined chateau Castel-a-Mare. We 
dine, and dinner, at which we take care to have mac- 
caroni, with a perfectly Italian savory sauce, becea- 
ficas, and no other wine than Marsala — takes a long 
time, because we linger over the view when our hands 
are removed from the plates. 

Come — the evening is cool and there are two or 
three hours to spare before night falls, and it becomes 
our business to hear an Opera at the San Carlo. Let 
us go into the streets, and mingle with the motley 
crowd which pours forth to enjoy the breezes from the 
bay, and the various gratis exhibitions which are ever 
to be found on the Mole, or near the Chiaja (an even- 
ing drive for fashionables), or the Public Garden, 
or in the open spaces about the town. Puppets (poupi), 
reciters of stories and poems, Pulcinello, singers with 
guitars, showmen, tumblers, venders of orangeade and 
lemonade, cars full of happy clusters of gaily dressed 
natives, beggars, funerals — gay from the crimson and 
gold pall which covers the bier — lazzaroni, cavalry 
soldiers, and pompous officials, make up the busy scene. 
It is very curious and exciting. The streets, every- 
thing considered, have little which merits notice. 
They are narrow, and the houses are lofty, so as to 
exclude the sun as much as possible. 

The San Carlo is a very large theatre, and the opera 
and the ballet — the latter having the preference — are 
upon a par with the same things at Milan. Better 
music is to be had at the Fondo theatre, a smaller but 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 137 

not untasteful house. Tragedy and comedy are not 
in great vogue at Naples, and have little attraction 
for those who have not studied the Italian lanfiuajre. 
To make amends for the absence of theatres worthy of 
the poetical renown of Alfieri and Goldoi, there are 
three hundred churches, some of which are very rich 
in paintings and marble. San Severo, San Martino, 
San Giovanni and Paulo, and the cathedral, are the 
most remarkable. 

The second day at Naples may well be partially 
passed in the Bourbon Museum — the Museo Borbonico 
Every step taken within this charming building is re 
plete with entertainment and instruction. There is 
not much of the latter to be gathered from looking at 
the backs of 250,000 volumes, or at the dingy papyri 
found in Herculaneum, but the picture gallery, and its 
profusion of works by the glorious old Italian masters, 
who flourished when, and because, the Medicis were 
in their glory — the marbles, bronzes, and Etruscan 
vases, the mosaics, fresco paintings, and gold and silver 
vases discovered in the excavations of Pompeii and 
Herculaneum — these make up the enjoyment of a good 
part of the day ; and a trip to Baioe (where the classic 
lake Avernus lies), stopping en route to see Grotto 
Posilipo, the scene of Virgil's tomb, and the Grotto 
del Cane, where a poor dog is thrown into convulsions 
by sulphuric vapors, make up the other part. 

At Naples we are introduced to a new coinage — a 
small quantity of which is requisite at all of the public 
places, for we are not in generous Paris. The coins 
in use are the grani, carlini, and ducats. Agrana is 



138 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

worth rather less than an American cent, or an Eng- 
lish halfpenny. It costs eight carlini — a carlino is 
worth ten grani — to see all parts of the Museo Borbo- 
nico. This is, however, only payable on the occasion 
of the first visit. 

The third day after our arrival at Naples we give 
to Vesuvius. The railway goes to Portici nine times 
a day, and reaches the village, or town, in three quar- 
ters of an hour; cost, 15 cents a head. It is pleas- 
ant to make the walk, if the day be not very hot, from 
Portici. We remain a little time, just to realize, if 
possible, the scene of the eruptions, and to think of 
Finella and Masaniello, or Tomas Aniello. By the 
way, there is a very good picture of the gallant rebel 
fisherman in the gallery of the Museum ; and if the 
traveller can stand a little dirt and offensive smells, he 
may visit the identical fish market in Naples where 
the famous revolt began. 

It is capital fun climbing up and down Vesuvius 
amid the sconce, sometimes helped up by guides, who 
drag you by a strap passed round your middle, and 
sometimes coming down with a run. Five hours is 
the time consumed in going from Portici to the top of 
Vesuvius and back. The guide costs a piastre. No 
refreshments are to be had en route — ergo, it will be as 
well to take some with you. 

If the train be taken from Naples as early as 7 a.m., 
there will be abundance of time to visit the ruins of 
Pompeii, which are reached in half an hour from 
Portici, by rail. 

The traveller will be surprised at the extent to 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 139 

which the excavations have been carried on. Two 
miles of streets in one direction, and half a mile in two 
other directions, will best illustrate the work which 
has been completed by the daudling Neapolitans and 
their stingy king. Murat began the operations with 
700 navvies per day — the ponderous Bomba cut down 
the number to 80. Ever, for good or for evil, the 
perpetual French are the busiest of mankind. French- 
men, •* with all their faults," must still be loved ; for 
they are not afraid of being thought to sympathize 
with virtue, nor of being seen in company with a friend 
who does not wear a fashionably-cut coat, or live in a 
fashionable street. They do not think it fine to affect 
apathy, nor vote it vulgar to exhibit a generous emo- 
tion. 

Should the visiter have read Sir W. Gell's account 
of the discoveries at Pompeii, or Bulwer's ' ' Last Days 
of Pompeii^ or Pliny's description of the destruction 
of the town, he will be ripe for enjoyment. Only ima- 
gine an excavated town, so perfect, after being buried 
for two thousand years, that the houses want little but 
the roofs to make them habitable ! What they were 
when occupied is realizable at the Crystal Palace of 
Sydenham. It will be evident to the reflective travel- 
ler, that the first shower which fell from the moun- 
tain must have been one of light pumice-stone, from 
which the people who were in the houses must, in 
general, easily have escaped unhurt. The second 
dreadful gift of the mountain must have been com- 
posed of wet fine cinders and mud, the liquid predomi- 
nating ; and by its rapidity of circulation immediately 



140 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

filled the cellars and other subterranean apartments 
as completely and as quickly as those above ground. 
From this there could have been no escape, and hence 
the discovery of two skeletons of persons killed while 
actually in motion. Yet Pliny makes no mention of 
this liquid or semi-liquid distinction, which a thousand 
remains prove to have been poured upon the city ; in- 
deed he gives no account of what occurred at or close 
to Pompeii, but only of the horrors experienced at 
Stabia and Misenum, and other parts of the Campana. 

The most striking objects at Pompeii are the noble 
and majestic Forum, the Amphitheatre, the house of* 
Diomed, the temples of Yenus and Quirinos. 

A guide is desirable in this terra incognita. There 
are always some at hand, and the fee payable to each, 
by a small party, is six carlini. The guide will point 
out the paintings on the walls, as fresh as if they were 
painted only yesterday. It is truly extraordinary to 
see the very great lightness with which the ancient 
painters were capable of investing some of their fig- 
ures — their Bacchantes and dancing nymphs. They 
absolutely seem to fly in air. The Thermae, or public 
baths, are most interesting. The marble basins, both 
of the Frigidarium and Tepidarium, are as sharp and 
clear as if not a month out of the mason's hands. The 
arched and ornamented roof is fresh and uninjured 
over more than half the baths, and the bronze benches 
and stone seats still remain perfect and serviceable, in 
the places they occupied seventeen centuries and a 
half ago. A domestic chapel, the abode of the Lares 
and Penates, will be found attached to the great 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 141 

houses. All the kitchens are abominably small, and 
so inartificially constructed as to give one no very ex- 
alted ideas of the culinary art, as practised by the 
Pompeians of old. Very would have expired, and 
Francatelli fallen upon his own spit, at the sight of a 
kitchen 10 by 12 feet square. Glass was found at 
Pompeii, in one window only — the sleeping room of 
Arius Diomedes. The other windows were probably 
protected by oiled silk or paper in the daytime, and 
by shutters at night. At the threshold, the word 
salve is frequently inscribed in letters of black mosaic, 
and in one house a dog is under your feet with a less 
hospitable cave canem. The dog is excellently done in 
black mosaic, upon a white ground, and has precisely 
the pointed ears and bushy tail, besides being of the 
size, of a large Arctic dog, such as are used by the 
Esquimaux. What could have brought so hyperbo- 
rean an animal to the shores of the " bay of the cra- 
ter ?" The Goths had not then broken the iron ram- 
part of the Roman Empire ; still less had the Huns 
affrighted Europe with their pig's eyes and flat noses. 
The Amphitheatre is really almost fit for immediate 
use ; but it never could have been large enough for 
chariot races. The arena is so complete as to be quite 
ready for a repetition of the bloody sports which of 
old polluted it. There are the liens' dens, and the 
barriers, and all the paraphernalia of those old and 
barbarous "-deviltries," as Robinson Crusoe hath it, 
which delighted the fierce and conquering Roman, who 
was cruel but not cowardly. There is a great deal of 
nonsense current about cowards only being cruel. 



142 NORTON S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

Were the Romans cowards, or were they not cruel? 
Ask the ghosts of those butchered gladiators, which 
parted from their hacked flesh with the* gleeful sound 
of hoc habet ringing in their ears ! The temple of the 
mysterious Isis is complete, but the secret staircase is 
very much miscalled, as it is a very imsecret staircase, 
carried openly up the outside of a wall. Indeed there 
is no room in what is called the sanctum sanctorum, 
for a stair to be carried at all. 

But we dwell too long on Pompeii. There is more 
ground to be gone over before Naples is quitted. The 
Campo Santo, or cemetery of Naples, the temples of 
Neptune, Vesta or Ceres, and Basilea, 4,000 years old, 
constituting the chief ruins of Paestum, must not be 
overlooked. It takes a day and a quarter to go to 
Paestum, and see the grand debris. Another day may be 
passed in a railway excursion to Castel-a-Mare, along 
the shores of the bay, and from the u Castel," to Sor- 
rento. A carriage must be hired to make the latter 
portions of the trip. 

Since we quitted Paris, nearly three weeks have 
passed away — not unprofitably or unpleasantly — and 
we must have spent in railways, vetturini, hotels, 
sights, guides, &c. , not less than one hundred and fifty 
dollars each. 

Should it be in the contemplation of the tourist to 
proceed to Egypt, he could not do a wiser thing now 
than to take the steamer from Naples to Malta, whence 
packets go once a week to Alexandria. On the other 
hand, if he meditates confining his peregrinations to 
Europe, he should embark at Naples for Leghorn, and 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL TS THE OLD WORLD. 143 

thence run up to Bologna, Ferrara, and Padua, which 
is only a few miles from Venice. As we stop at Fer- 
rara, we remember that the tragedy of Parisina found 
its locality in the gloomy Ducal Palace of this latter 
city. Its massive towers, battlemented walls of gigan- 
tic height, drawbridge, and vast moat, bring back to 
the recollection all the horrors of the middle ages, the 
fate of the valiant, the guilty Hugo, and the wretched 
Parisina. Ariosto, too, and Tasso, his Eleanore, and 
the proud house of Este, come back through past ages 
to our memory, in the still streets of this decaying 
city. The cathedral of Ferrara is externally in 
the worst possible style of Gothic, being most un- 
fortunately like the gable ends of three Flemish 
houses of equal height joined together : — the interior is 
Grecian ! 

If we stop at Padua or Padova, and spend a night 
at the Hotel de la Stelle D'Or, it is because we like 
very old towns, which Shakespeare has immortalized. 
"We respect the pavement over which Petruchio, the 
gallant shrew tamer, walked. But Padua is no longer 
Italian ; it is Austrian, and the perpetual white uni- 
form gives a new turn to thought. There is plenty, 
however, to be seen in the Palace of Justice, and Ca- 
thedral, in the Church of St. Anthony, and the Chapel 
of Giotto. 

We have no occasion now to drive slowly along the 
banks of the muddy Brenta, and reflect upon the 
facility with which Mr3. Radcliffe and other novel- 
ists have metamorphosed the narrow stream, with its 
lugubrious ripple, its cockney villas, and dilapidated 



144 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

edifices, into a scene of Italian enchantment. The 
railway whisks us over the twenty-three miles which 
lie between Padua and Venice, in an hour and a half, 
at a cost of three quarters of a dollar. 

The first appearance of Venice does not produce 
that overpowering effect on the mind, which might be 
expected. It looks very like a handsome foreign 
town, on the side of a green river. It is on a nearer 
approach that its world of wonders unfold themselves 
— that we see palaces, as it were, growing out of and 
floating on the bosom of the ocean ; streets paved 
with water ; and a population moving about in all 
directions upon an element, almost as little traversed 
in other capitals as the land is in this. The Grand 
Canal is striking beyond description, for it is perfectly 
unique as well as very beautiful. More than 300 feet 
in width, it would be a splendid street in any city of 
the world, but here, instead of dusty pavements and 
muddy roads, we have the green waters to sparkle in 
a breeze, or double the beautiful proportions of every 
palace when it sleeps calmly in sunshine at its 
base. By daylight, the city is a splendid and glorious 
picture — by moonlight, it is one of the most interest- 
ing spectacles that the eye can see, or the imagination 
conceive. All that is less than beautiful is then hid- 
den, while the noble forms of the palaces gather 
additional majesty, and the waters which lave them, 
fresh loveliness from the deep shadows and tender 
lustre produced by the sweetest of lights in this clear 
atmosphere. It is impossible to conceive anything 
more striking than the first view of St. Mark's place, 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 145 

pillars, piazzas, arcades, palaces, domes, and towers by 
moonlight. Sunshine shows the scene in the full 
splendor of its oriental and gorgeous character, but the 
softer lustre makes it a place of enchantment ; while 
history and fiction, alike, lend their aid to gratify the 
mind, by conjuring up the innumerable romantic and 
beautiful recollections- connected with the spot. The 
three lofty poles which once bore the flags of subject 
kingdoms, rise in front of three horses, trophies won 
from a vanquished empire, and that empire all that 
remained of Rome! But the flags wave no longer, 
and the horses only remain, at the pleasure of a for- 
eign master. "Is not the Doria's menace come to 
pass ? Are they not bridled ?" Nothing can exceed 
the splendor of the churches in this city. Though 
none are of very magnificent proportions, yet nearly 
one and all are, internally, masses of precious marbles, 
of mosaic and gilding, adorned with pictures and 
statues, worthy the edifices they decorate. A com- 
plete account of them is out of the question. The 
finest among them are St. Marco, St. Giovanni e 
Paulo, the Church of the Jesuits, the Carmelites, St. 
Georgeo Maggiore, II Ridentore, and the Maria dalla 
Salute. The Dogane de Mare, or Sea Custom 
House, runs out from this church. It is a favored ob- 
ject with painters who take views of Venice from the 
seaward side. Beside these edifices, there are the San 
Rocco, and the Ducal Palace. The great and noble 
rooms of the former pious and praiseworthy establish- 
ment, contain many fine pictures, and they are worthy 
of the finest. The society or fraternity of the Rocco, 

7 



146 Norton's hand-book to' Europe ; 

is a male association formed on the model ofthe Sceurs 
de la Charite, personally to attend the sick, and relieve 
the necessitous. The great picture of Mount Calvary, 
by Tintoretto, is here. It is a grand composition, but 
the coloring appears either crude or feeble. 

The Ducal Palace! What recollections does not 
this vast and venerable pile recall ! Glory, conquest, 
wealth, domination ! A thousand years of dominion, 
the most detestable system of domestic tyranny 
which has ever cursed the world, and an inglorious 
fall. Here were seen subject kingdoms and subject 
doges all yielding to the selfish energy of the worst of 
despotisms, an oligarchy. Worse than " Lone Ty- 
ranny" because more difficult to overthrow ; worse 
than Democracy, for Democracy may be guided. At 
once grasping — for the name of those who are to di- 
vide the spoils is Legion — and envious, for, among a 
ftiousand masters, shall there not be very many to 
envy a successful servant? In this mighty pile sat 
the Senate and the Council of Ten. It likewise con- 
tained the public offices. Those on the ground floor 
being the departments of least importance, weight and 
dignity increased in the ratio of ascent, and each 
range of public offices is of a grade superior to that 
in the story below it ; until, in the highest story, 
crowning, both metaphorically and literally, the whole 
departments of the State, and rising above all the ma- 
chinery of government, sat the terrible Three in their 
secret omnipotence of evil. The prisons are under 
the palace — the prisons of the " Inquisition f of State V* 
Inquisition ! An ominous name, and as terribly ef- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 147 

fective here in upholding the abuses of the State, as it 
was in Spain for upholding the abuses of the church. 
But what an illustration of the adamantine nature of 
this terrible government — the prisons are under the 
palace ! The sovereign in all other states, Christian, 
or Mahometan, or Pagan, has been the dispenser of 
mercy ; here he was the chief jailor — nay, chief exe- 
cutioner — for " the Dungeon" was the sentence, and 
the Doge held the keys. You actually descend from a 
gay marble gallery into those dreadful abodes of hu- 
man woe. The pomp of purple and gold, the levee, 
the dance, the masque, the tent, were above, — and be- 
low, misery, torture, despair, death ! Could men 
dance and women smile when such dreadful scenes 
were acting both above and below them under the 
same roof? The Ponte de Sospiri, " the Bridge of 
Sighs," which leads from the ordinary civil and crim- 
inal prison (an above land and water place of confine- 
ment) to the more terrible dungeons of the Inquisition 
of State, is a covered passage, light and air being ad- 
mitted by two or three strongly grated windows look- 
ing on the canal which it crosses. This Ponte de Sos- 
piri was probably used as the Torture Chamber. 

To turn to less terrible portions of this edifice — the 
Chambers of the Palace of St. Mark's are spacious and 
princely. Some curious paintings of the ancient ex- 
ploits of the Republic decorate and cover the walls ; a 
row of Doges of vast length runs round beneath the 
cornice of one room and almost of another, and there 
are other beautiful frescoes and pictures in different 
apartments. 



148 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

If you would have au unique coup d'ceil go to the 
landing-place of the Piazzetta. As you step from 
your gondola, you have before you the two fine pil- 
lars of Egyptian granite which support St. Marc, and 
the winged Lion — farther on, the three banner-staves, 
and beyond these again the Clock Tower, with its 
azure front powdered with golden stars. To the right 
hand is the Ducal Palace, to the left, the Mint and 
Palazzo Reale, both classical and beautiful buildings. 
St. Marc's gigantic tower rises" high above all. Be- 
hind the spectator is the Adriatic and its thousand 
isles — above, is the sky of Italy, fit canopy for such a 
scene, while all that is left of life or gayety at Venice 
still haunts the spot where once was the " carnival of 
earth, the masque of Italy." Now the gondolier's 
song is mute — and the carnival is but a fast fading 
shadow of what it was. 

The Pialto, the Academia delle belle Arte, the 
house of Titian, and the Campanile, a column 316 
feet high and 42 feet square, close the list of attrac- 
tions, unless an opera is being performed at La Fenice, 
the principal theatre. 

Let it be noted that there is a news-room at the 
northwest angle of the Piazza St. Marco, where 
French and English papers are procurable ; and that 
the best personal guides are the gondoliers. 

A steamer goes at midnight to Trieste, and occupies 
six hours in the transit. The fare is seven or five 
florins, according to the class. A florin is equivalent 
to two francs and fifteen centimes ; thus, seven florins, 
make fifteen francs and five centimes, or three Amer- 
ican dollars. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 149 

From Trieste, where there is no temptation to re- 
main, the railway may be taken to Vienna. 

AUSTRIA. 

It is 363 miles from Trieste to Vienna by rail. 
The journey occupies exactly twenty-four hours, if the 
traveller goes " right on." It may, however, be ac- 
complished in eighteen hours by express. The cost of 
the express, 1st class, is 34 florins ; 2d class, 23 florins, 
33 kreutzers ; the ordinary trains cost 26 florins, 10 
kreutzers ; 2d class, 19 florins, 38 kreutzers. The 
only inducements to stop en route for some hours are 
the towns of Laibach and Gratz. Each offers fine 
prospects, palaces, cathedrals, &c, ; but unless our 
traveller is very avid for this kind of spectacle he 
would be wasting his time, for there is much to see at 
Vienna. 

There are two tables dhote every day, at the Empress 
Elizabeth Hotel, which is otherwise well conducted. 
There are eight or ten other good hotels if this should 
be full, but none which appear so exactly suited to 
American travellers. The dinner costs about a dollar 
up stairs, and one third less in the restaurant attached 
to the hotel. The wines are Hungarian — those called 
the Hungarian Burgundy have a renown. Give up 
your passport to be vise. 

Much is there in the Emperor's City, as Vienna is 
proudly called, wherewith to amuse the visiter. Mount 
to the summit of the steeple of St. Stephen's (the ca- 
thedral, built in 1144), and thence take a view of the 
city and the suburbs. It is a superb prospect — hills, 



150 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

well clad, fortifications, the river Danube, and its 
islands, forest, park and garden, and about nine thou- 
sand houses variegated with innumerable church steeples. 
Many a time has all this neighborhood been the scene 
of hostile encampments and fierce battles. Once the 
bulwark of Germany against the Hungarian and the 
Turk, it fell to the former in the thirteenth century — 
was vainly besieged by the latter in 1683 with an 
array of 200,000 men, which was beaten by Jean So- 
bieski — and in 1805 and 1809 fell to the French under 
the all-conquering Napoleon. 

To form a good idea of the capital of a despotism 
and the wealth of an aristocracy, Vienna should be 
examined in all its parts. Nowhere do we find more 
reverence paid to monarchs living and monarchs dead. 
There are sarcophagi and silver urns for the reception 
of the ashes and the hearts of royalty and its scions — 
there are noble marble monuments and churches built 
in fulfilment of the sacred vows of sovereigns. So 
much for the departed. For the defence and protec- 
tion of the living there are troops, in all kinds of uni- 
forms, continually in and about the town, an arsenal, 
a manufactory of arms, and a cannon foundry. In 
evidence of the wealth and taste of the higher orders, 
we must visit the imperial picture-gallery, and the 
galleries of Prince Lichtenstein, Prince Esterhazy, 
Count Czernin, and Count Schorborn. There are 
considerable collections of antiquities of all kinds in 
the Belvederes ; and geology, mineralogy, geography, 
and anatomy, find copious illustrations in the various 
museums. The public infirmary, the lunatic asylum, 






OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 151 

the hospital of the benevolent brotherhood, the deaf 
and dumb institute, will go to prove the paternal 
character of the despotism. The public gardens and 
walks about Vienna are very numerous, and some of 
them splendidly laid out, in parterres of tulips, auri- 
iculas, pelagorniums and roses. In some of the gardens 
are concerts and bails, a la mode de Paris, and the 
Volk's garden contains Canova's famous statue of 
Theseus. There are not many club-houses in Vienna, 
as the frequent assemblage of the intelligence of a 
country is opposed to the genius of an unlimited mon- 
archy ; but there are plenty of coffee-houses, with bill- 
iard-tables, smoking-rooms, and newspapers. At one 
institution all the foreign newspapers can be seen if 
the visiter can get an introduction from his banker. 

The suburbs of Vienna offer some charming drives. 
The principal place of interest is Schcernbiinn, the 
summer palace of the Emperor. The only son of the 
great Napoleon lived and died at Schoenbrunn. He 
bore the title of the Duke de Reichstadt, for his 
mother and his grandfather relinquished all views to 
the throne of France on his account after Napoleon's 
abdication. 

Vienna presents many conveniences for locomotion. 
There are omnibuses without number, and public 
fiacres for journeys about the town and the suburbs, 
at reasonable rates. 

From the "City of the Emperor" we have the 
choice of routes. If it is intended to travel North, 
the railway is open to Cracow, Warsaw, and so on to 
St. Petersburg and Moscow. On the other hand, 



152 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

should it be desired to see more of Germany and its 
varied beauties, and parts of Switzerland which were 
left unexplored as we proceeded south, there are 
means at hand for effecting that particular journey. 
We will consider the latter route. 

BAVARIA AND SWITZERLAND. 

There are two lines from Vienna. One goes to 
Linz and stops there — the other to Salzburg. There 
are also steamers up the Danube to Linz. Linz is 
very beautifully situated on the Danube, and is curious 
for the manner in which it has been fortified. Some- 
what after the plan of the Duke of Wellington at 
Torres Vedras, circular redoubts have been placed all 
about and around the town on the heights, by which it 
is encircled. It is one of the best, if not the veiy best 
example of the system of " Lines with Intervals" to be 
found in any part of Europe. But beyond these 
works there is little that is special in Linz to lead the 
traveller out of his way. We had better, therefore, 
take our tickets for Munich, or rather for Salzburg, 
the Austrian limit on the way to Munich. At all 
events there must be a stoppage at Salzburg, for who, 
with any music in his soul, will miss the opportunity 
of making a pilgrimage to the house in which Mozart 
was born, and looking with loving eyes upon the 
statue raised to his memory. The music of Don Gio- 
vanni, Le Nozze de Figaro, Die Zauberflote, the Sonatas, 
and the Kequiem, all come back.to the ear when we 
are in Salzburg, hallowed, as it is, by so charming an 
association. Go to the Hotel del Archduke Charles, 



. 



OR HOW TO TRAVEL IN THN OLD WORLD. 153 

and when you have seen the palace, the castle, and 
the cathedral, and have sated your eyes with the cele- 
brated view from the Gaisberg, take a vehicle and 
pay a visit to the salt mines of Hallein. 

Adieu to Salzburg — on to Munich, the capital of 
Bavaria. The real name of this town is Munchen. It 
shares with Dresden the reputation of being the most 
perfectly classical city in Germany. The arts have 
here received the highest amount of culture, and the 
good fruit is apparent in the architectural decorations 
of the numerous churches and palaces, in the structure 
and contents of the noble sculpture gallery called the 
Glyptothek — in the paintings which adorn the walls 
of the Royal Palace and of the Pinacothek, and in the 
exquisite nature of the music at the churches, the 
Odeon, and the theatres. Admission to all public gal- 
leries is free, excepting to the copper statue of Bavaria 
outside the town, near the Walhalla, or Hall of He- 
roes. Two days are very profitably passed at Munich 
— more would not be lost, for, let me tell you, it is 
very hard work to see and thoroughly enjoy the riches 
of Munich in less than a week. 

It is unnecessary to remind the student of history 
that we are now on ground rendered famous by the 
aggressive armies of Napoleon Bonaparte. Continu- 
ally, between 1796 and 1809, the country in the val- 
ley of the Iser was the scene of terrible conflicts, in 
which the might of France pressed with iron weight 
upon the power of Austria. 

In two or three hours we have been carried to 
Augsburg, a fine old manufacturing town, full of ven- 

7* 



154 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

erable buildings, fountains and wells. There are 
many structures here which have stood for three hun- 
dred years, and there is actually an inn — that of the 
Three Moors — which was spoken of as a feature of 
the town six hundred years ago ! Singularly enough 
it is still the best hotel in the town. 

Ulm is but two hours' journey from Augsburg, and 
as' it lies, in some measure, on the route we propose to 
follow, there is no good reason for denying ourselves 
the opportunity of seeing the old cathedral — 500 feet 
long. The fortifications of Ulm will recall the capitu- 
lation, in 1805, of General Mack — a most unfortunate 
and unnecessary piece of business. To be sure Napo- 
leon had, by a masterly combination of his divisions on 
the Rhine, brought a great force, admirably com- 
manded, to bear upon the city of Ulm ; but a garrison 
of 30,000 men, well provisioned, can make an excel- 
lent defence, and no good reason has yet been ad- 
vanced why General Mack did not make somewhat of 
a stand. 

From Ulm the tourist can either run down in three 
hours to Ravensburg, or up to Stuttgard ; the former 
route taking him to within a stone's throw of Lake 
Constance — well worth seeing because of the view of 
the mountains of Tyrol, and the churches in the neg- 
lected town of Constance— =-and the latter to Stuttgjird, 
the capital of Wurtemberg, and a good specimen of 
the. chief towns of the little duchies and kingdoms 
into which central Germany is parcelled out. To the 
Republican these small despotisms cannot fail to be in- 
teresting. He is everywhere made sensible of the 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 155 

wide difference between the sovereigns and the people. 
While the latter occupy small houses and apartments, 
in obscure and unhealthy parts of towns, the palaces 
are always advantageously situated, and the architect's 
skill has been lavished on their embellishment. Stutt- 
gard is singularly unhealthy. It is more prudent, 
therefore, to go on to Cannstadt, which may be 
reached in ten minutes, and from that beautifully- 
situated little place on the banks of the river Necker, 
walk to Stuttgard to view whatever it may possess of 
interest. 

Supposing that we go both north and south, and 
after looking at Stuttgard, take the rail to Kavensburg 
and Constance. From Constance cross the lake to 
Romenshorn, from which little Swiss town you get in 
two hours to Zurich, the largest and finest city in 
East Switzerland. The cost by rail is 14 francs 1st 
class, 9 francs 2d class. The Hotel Baur au Lac is 
very quietly and sweetly situated " on the margin of 
fair Zurich's waters," and the spirit of accommodation 
is rife throughout the establishment. Zurich will 
bring back to the mind of the traveller, while he con- 
templates the beauties of its surroundings, souvenirs 
of the efforts of Protestantism to upset Catholic as- 
cendency in Europe. Here, in 1519, began the 
Reformation under Zwingli — here, too, Zwingli's first 
English bible was printed — and here, also, the re- 
formers of England fled from the persecution of 
" bloody Queen Mary," and found refuge and protec- 
tion. In later years the tranquillity of Zurich was 
disturbed by the rude hand of war. The French 



156 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

Revolution brought the Eussians and the French into 
conflict, and a battle was fought in 1799. Massena 
took up a defensive position on the heights to the 
westward of the town, and for twelve whole days 
defied the Russians who were bent on the invasion of 
France. The sights of Zurich are comprehended in 
a very small compass. There is a cathedral and a 
cemetery, the latter rendered attractive as the birth- 
place of Lavater, the physiognomist, who was cruelly 
shot by French soldiers. 

At Zurich we turn our back on Switzerland, and 
taking the trains to Carlsruhe, via Offenburg, find 
ourselves in a few hours approaching the head of the 
Rhine, and on the track of the thousands of English 
and French tourists who make this one of their an- 
nual autumnal trips. Carlsruhe presents few tempta- 
tions to a prolonged stay, unless a strong theatrical 
taste disposes us to visit the Theatre, which is one of 
the finest in the world. But, at an hour's railroad 
distance, stands the rare old chateau of Heidelberg. 

THE RHINE AND HOLLAND. 

Heidelberg, a singular old town on the Necker, pos- 
sesses several very good hotels, one of which, the Hotel 
Adler, stands in the grand square, and commands a 
view of the noble ruins of the vast castle where the 
Electors Palatine resided. This wonderful chateau 
contains something besides its gigantic Tun, reported 
to hold 3,000 bottles of good Rhenish wine, worth 
looking at. A castellan has actually contrived to 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 157 

make a guide-book, which he calls " Wanderings 
through the Ruins of the Castle and its Environs," 
extending over 160 pages. To be sure we have a 
good deal of the history of by-gone Counts Palatine, 
many traditions, and a few quotations, to eke out the 
volume ; but what interest attaches to ruins of any 
kind, mossgrown, mouldy, damp and dark, as many of 
them are, if association, fond credulity, and an eye to 
the picturesque are not called in aid of the crumbled 
heap or dilapidated brick and stone walls 1 After all, 
if the ruins do not sufficiently excite the tourist to 
induce him to purchase the Castellan's volume and 
explore the remains of the castle, let him not fail to 
visit the garden. It is not extravagant to say that the 
garden is " the most beautiful of one of the most 
charming spots in Germany — the eye is delighted with 
verdant fields, dark forests, rivers, mountains and val- 
leys, and enjoys a most varied change in its surround- 
ing towns and villages." 

In half an hour, at the expense of less than a florin, 
we get to Mannheim, and here we take the steamer to 
Cologne, for who would miss the scenery on the banks 
of " the Rhine, the Rhine I" though to say the truth it 
is nothing above Mayence. We go first to Mayence 
by the Cologne and Dusseldorf Company's steamer, 
either at 5 or 8 1 a. m., or 2^ p. M., and we pay 2 
francs for our place in the first cabin, 1 franc and 25 
centimes in the second. Mayence (German Mainz) 
commands our stay for two or three hours. Here 
Guttenberg (or Gutenburg), the first printer, was 
bora, and here he died, four hundred years ago. 



158 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

Thorwaldsen, the great Danish sculptor, is the author 
of the splendid monument raised at Mayence in honor 
of Guttenberg, and here the members of the Gutten- 
berg society resort to meet and celebrate his mighty 
discovery and do honor to his name — " Who," asks 
Samuel Phillips, in his Portrait Gallery of the Syden- 
ham Crystal Palace, " shall fix the merit or assess the 
claims, or tell the influence, exercised in the world by 
the portentous labors of the inventor of printing ?" 
The bible was first printed in Latin at Mayence. 
Faust, a goldsmith, lent Guttenberg the money where- 
with to establish a printing-press. The printer could 
not repay the debt at the appointed time. Faust 
seized the press, and Guttenberg was cast upon the 
world. The old story ! The fortifications, the Mu- 
seum, and the Cathedral of Mayence merit a glance ; 
having taken which, we embark for a voyage down 
the Rhine, at least as far as Cologne. Two dollars 
is the fare for the first class — less than a dollar and a 
half for the second — meals and wines extra. The 
voyage occupies about twelve hours, and every few 
miles the attention is arrested by some striking object 
on the shore. Town and castle, cathedral and tower 
and mountain, fringe the water ; some of the old castles 
in their elevation and formidable appearance carrying 
the mind far back into the times when feudal tyranny 
was rampant and proud Barons defied their sovereigns. 
We pass in succession, on the right bank, Biberich, in 
the duchy of Nassau, Schinstein, Etwille, Erbach, Hat- 
tenheim, the Schlosse (or Palace) Johannisberg, the 
very name of which suggests the most delicious Rhine 



f 

OK, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 159 

wines, Rudesheim, the scene of the tragedy of Giselle, 
whose form is still see?i, by feeble-minded boatmen and 
credulous vintagers, floating about the ruined tower, — 
Bingen opposite, on the left bank, Ehrenfels and 
Mausethurm, or the Mouse Tower — so called because 
a wretched Baron was(o?i dit) devoured thereby rats — ■ 
Lurleifelsen ; and again, on the left bank, Bachersel, 
Oberwesel, Rheinfels, and Boppart, Braabach, and the 
" proud castle" Stolzenfels, the last point of attraction 
until we reach Coblentz, where the river Moselle 
forms a junction with the Rhine — whence the name of 
the place — Coblentz being a corruption of the Latin 
Confluentes. If it has not been thought worth while 
to land anywhere else, en route, it may be advisable 
to set pied a terre at Coblentz, because the town has 
some interesting features of antiquity about it. The 
fortifications are likewise deserving of notice. Con- 
nected by a bridge with Ehrenbreitstein, Coblentz 
and its vis a vis form a barrier against the invasion of 
Germany by France. Upward of 100,000 -men can 
be placed within these formidable works. At Cob- 
lentz, the banks of the Rhine for a time lose their 
mountainous character, but become hilly again after 
passing old Andernach, on the left bank. We pursue 
the journey, and count some twenty to thirty quaint 
towns and villages, among the former of which are 
Linz (right bank), and Bonn on the left bank — a 
place of some consideration — chiefly on account of its 
university, where Prince Albert, the consort of Queen 
Victoria, received his education. 

We quit the steamer at Cologne, supposing us not 



160 Norton's hand-book to etjrope ; 

to have left it at any previous place on the right bank, 
and take up our quarters at the Hotel de Hollande, or 
the Hotel Royal, both of which command views of the 
Rhine. We have all heard of Cologne water, and it is 
something to find ourselves in the town where we can 
purchase a small quantity of the genuine composition 
of Jean Maria Farina, in whose honored name so 
much spurious trash has been manufactured and sold 
all over the world. We have also heard of the Dom 
Kirche, or Cathedral, unquestionably one of the purest 
specimens of old Gothic architecture extant ; and who 
is unacquainted, by reputation at least, with the three 
Kings of Cologne who carried presents to the infant 
who lay in Bethlehem ? Accordingly we go to the 
chief factory of Koln wasser, or Cologne water, in 
Julicks Platz, to the cathedral, and the famous shrine 
of the three magi. Then we enter the Museum and 
some of the churches, and returning to our hotel, set 
down to a comfortable dinner. 

Having got fairly into Germany, it is right that we 
should at once proceed to inform ourselves on many 
points which concern the economy of a traveller's life 
in Germany. First, as to our passport. If we should 
have forgotten to have it vised at Mayence, the grand 
ceremonial should not be omitted at Cologne. There 
is not much fear of the omission of the formula at any 
time, for landlords will, for their own sakes, take care 
that every one who comes to their hotel shall present 
the evidence of identity, such as it is ; and if they 
should by chance forget it, there are always valets de 
place seeking for so good an excuse for raising a franc 






OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 161 

or two as the getting Monsieur's passport vise. Next, 
as to money. In Prussia we are introduced to the 
thaler, equivalent to 71 U. S. cents, and the silver 
groschen, 30 of which are equivalent to a thaler, and 
20 of which correspond with 2 francs and 46 centimes, 
or one shilling and eleven pence halfpenny. Thirdly, 
as to expenses. The average charges are from a franc 
to two francs for a bedroom — fifteen to twenty silver 
groschen for a dinner at the table d'hote, a third more 
if served in a private room, fifteen s. g. for a dejeuv/ir 
a la fourchette, five or six s. g. for coffee, and 5 s. g. for 
half a bottle of wine. The table d'hote, it must be 
borne in mind, is held at 1 p. M. ; seldom later than 2 
or 3 p. m., excepting at some hotels where, in defer- 
ence to the usages of the English and Americans, as 
late as 4 and 5 p. m. have been adopted. Fourthly, 
as to manners. The Germans are great sticklers for 
personal respect. It is imperative upon every one 
going into a house or office to take off his hat Smok- 
ing is not permitted in the public streets ; and Ger- 
mans must be addressed by their titles, or their offices, 
however humble they may be. " Madame, the cham- 
bermaid," will not be considered a covert insult. 

As Dusseldorf is "one of the nicest and most regu- 
lar towns on the Rhine,'' and has contributed, by the 
works of its artists, to enhance the attractions of New- 
York, few Americans will hesitate to continue the 
Rhine route from Cologne to Dusseldorf. The town 
is indebted for something of its splendor to the Elec- 
tor, John William ; and in token of its gratitude, his 
bronze statue, on a pedestal of grey marble, is erected 
in the middle of the Market Place. 



162 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

At Dusseldorf we quit Germany, and proceed by 
rail to Rotterdam, 145 miles. 

There is nothing more distinct in character than the 
seaports and inland towns of Holland. Should our 
traveller wish to form an idea of the latter, and of the 
country parts of the little kingdom he is now entering, 
he may stop at Arnheim, the principal town of Guel- 
derland, and see the iron-girder bridge across the 
Yssel, and again at Utrecht. A very pretty, formal 
little town is Utrecht, famous politically for the treaty 
in 1579, and the congress of 1713. Nothing can be 
cleaner, or more picturesque, than the houses in 
Utrecht, and the woods, gardens, and villages all 
about it. There is, of course, the inevitable cathedral, 
and a museum. Half a day passed in Utrecht, photo- 
graphs the inner Dutch town on the mind of the tour- 
ist, and he now makes the best of his way to Amster- 
dam, only 23 miles off. 

The commercial renown of the Dutch imparts a 
strange interest to Amsterdam, which is still a place 
of great trading activity. The canals running through 
the streets in all parts of the town, cutting it up into 
an infinite number of islets, will recall Venice to the 
mind of the traveller ; but he will remark this broad 
distinction between them, that on each side of the 
canals are trees and walks, or a series of quays, so that 
the gondola is not here a necessity. In place of the 
gondolas, barges, and Khine and Dutch coasters, occu- 
py the canals. But all these things are better seen 
from the summit of the lofty Palace, which was 
formerly the Stadthouse, corresponding with the City 
Hall of New- York. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 163 

Resort to the Hotel des Pays Bas, Doelen Straat, 
and get rid of your German money for as much Dutch 
coin as you may require before you quit Rotterdam 
for England. A stiver is equal to two American 
cents — a guilder, 49 cents, or about half a U. S. dol- 
lar. Florins are also in use here, and are valued at 1 
guilder and 4 stivers. 

The " sights" of Amsterdam are, of course, of a 
very different character to those which have made the 
staple of France, Italy, Switzerland and Germany. 
The plain Protestant churches here offer nothing but 
a few monuments to gallant Dutch admirals, not the 
least of whom was De Ruyter. The Museum or Pic- 
ture Gallery, however, supplies abundance of material 
for the pleasure of a picture hunter. In the collection 
are to be found some of the best works of the admir- 
able masters of the Dutch school. Gems from the 
easels of Gerard Douw, Ostade, Paul Potter, Rem- 
brandt, Ruisdael, Wouvermans, and Teniers. The 
charitable institutions, the manufactories, the prisons, 
and the docks, make up the other lions of the town ; 
but there are also theatres and cafes which will not be 
overlooked. Everywhere, in his perambulations, the 
tourist will be struck with the extraordinary order and 
cleanliness of the people and their dwellings. Wash- 
ing and sweeping, and the removal of dust and garb- 
age, are ceremonies of hourly performance. The 
manufactories will be found especially interesting. 
Those for the refining of borax and of smalt are 
unique. 

There is a railway to Rotterdam, but as the Hague 



164 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

intervenes, we will stop at that modern capital of Hol- 
land, in order to see the Picture Gallery and the 
Royal Cabinet of Curiosities. Such objects as are 
contained in these two establishments are not to be 
seen elsewhere. The Hague has no features in com- 
mon with the other seaboard towns of Holland. It 
could scarcely be called a city sixty years ago. Louis 
Bonaparte gave the Hague all the importance it enjoys 
by making it the seat of his court. The Hotel deV 
Europe, in the Langer Houtstraat, is the most desirable 
for our purpose, as it is close to the Museum. With 
just national pride, and unimpeachable taste, the Dutch 
have accumulated in this Museum some of the choicest 
works of the men who painted when Holland was pre- 
eminent for commercial opulence. The ft Young 
Bull" of Paul Potter, his chef $ ceuvre, is here. This 
once decorated the Louvre as part of the spoils of war, 
transported by Napoleon I., for the glory of France 
and the embellishment of the French capital. Restitu- 
tion was made in 1815. In the Museum, also, are mas- 
terpieces from the pencils of Snyders, Van Dyck, 
Rubens, Wouvermans, and Rembrandt. The spectator, 
whether connoisseur or otherwise, will enjoy those Dutch 
galleries, because they furnish so great a contrast to the 
Italian schools, of which he will have recently soen so 
great a number of specimens. The Royal Cabinet of 
Curiosities is distinguished by a collection of Chinese 
manufactures and articles of household use, figures of 
Chinese in porcelain, Japan ware, Japan models, cos- 
tumes, arms, medical instruments, etc. These illus- 
trations of Japan life are not to be found anywhere 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 165 

else, for, until recently, the Dutch were the only nation 
which had contrived to establish a friendly communi- 
cation with the Japanese. America, however, has 
now done her part in contributing to prevail upon 
those singularly jealous people to hold free communi- 
cation with the civilized world. The Cabinet of Curi- 
osities would not be complete without some historical 
relics, and accordingly we find armor, portraits, and 
swords of illustrious Admirals and distinguished 
Princes of Orange, some souvenirs of Peter the Great, 
when he worked in the shipyard at Zaardam, and a 
few interesting models. 

Fourteen miles from the Hague is the fine old city 
of Rotterdam, in itself a curiosity. There are no 
specialities to detain a stranger whose travel south 
have made him fastidious, and he therefore contents 
himself with a walk about Rotterdam until the time 
arrives for the departure of one of the steamers to 
London. There are three of these steamers weekly — 
the fare in the chief cabin is 30 shillings (six dollars) ; 
in the fore cabin, lis. §d. — three dollars and a half. 
The average passage is eighteen hours. 



Whichever of the foregoing routes- may have been 
selected for the tour through France, Switzerland, 
Italy, Germany, and Holland, we shall find, that, after 
doing justice to all the principal attractions, not less 
than three months will have been consumed since we 
quitted the shores of America, and an examination of 



166 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

the exchequer will probably demonstrate that, out of 
the fifteen hundred dollars which were set aside for all 
the expenses of the trip, at least eight hundred or 
nine hundred have been spent. We have still a month 
left, out of the four months which had been appro- 
priated to the holiday tour. How best to employ so 
much of that period as need not to be consumed in 
the voyage home will be the subject of future consider- 
ation. It is necessary now to chalk out another tour 
for those who desire to go as far south as Egypt, and 
as far north as Russia. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 167 



THE MEDITERRANEAN TOUR. 

The reader is requested to refer back to page 120, 
where mention is made of Lyons, and to suppose him- 
self there. At Lyons he takes the rail to Marseilles, 
224 miles distant. He pays 40 francs for a first class 
seat, or 32 francs for a seat in a second class carriage. 
He will not find much difference between them. 

Marseilles — the ancient Marsilla — is an immense 
place, the port of the Mediterranean, with a harbor 
capable of receiving more than 2000 vessels at a time. 
It has all the disagreeable features of an ordinary sea- 
port town, and some very offensive ones which are 
peculiarly its own. The inducements to remain here 
are consequently very small, especially as there is 
nothing to see beyond an old town and a new one, the 
latter of which has one very long street, a square, and 
a fountain. It will be advisable, therefore, so to regu- 
late one's arrival at Marseilles that the place may be 
immediately quitted for Malta and Alexandria. There 
are ten opportunities every month. The Peninsular 
and Oriental Company have steamers which go on the 



168 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

4th, 11th, 19th, and 27th of each month — the Royal 
mail packets on the 8th and 26th ; the French packets 
on the 18th, and another class of steamers on the 16th. 
Thus, there are only intervals of five or six days be- 
tween the departure of one steamer and another. The 
expense of the passage is about the same in all cases. 
£7 10s. (35 dollars) — first class cabins ; — £4 10s. (22 
dollars) — second class. The average duration of the 
passage is two days and a half, or say three days. 

Malta is an island of very considerable interest 
historically and ethnologically. It has belonged at 
different times to different nations, for its commanding 
position on the Mediterranean has made it an object of 
covetousness with all who sought dominion and com- 
mercial advantage. It was in the possession of the 
French, who dispossessed the Knights of St. John of 
Jerusalem, until 1802, when it fell to an English 
blockade, and has been jealously maintained by the 
British to the present hour. The chief town is Val- 
letta, which, with a range of admirable fortifications, 
forms the harbor. Valetta contains two very good 
hotels — the Imperial is better than Morel's. A couple 
of days may be pleasantly passed at Malta ; indeed, 
the climate is so delightful that even if there were no 
sights worth notice at Malta, it would not be time 
misspent to breathe the pure air of the island. But 
there is something to see. True, the streets are steep 
and narrow, but the very circumstance of their being 
composed of stair-cases, constitutes a novelty: The 
Albergas and churches are the principal features of 
Valetta. The former are the halls and residences of 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 169 

the Knights of St. John, and are remarkable for their 
architecture and the faded decorations of their inte- 
rior. Some of the churches are superb in their mar- 
bles, monuments, and mosaics. Beyond Valetta, in 
the centre of the island which, by-the-by, is only 16 
miles long and 9 broad, rises the old town of Civita 
Vecchia, where a commanding view is obtained of 
Sicily and the Barbary coast. A range of sixty miles 
is taken in from the heights of Civita Vecchia. Do 
not omit seeing the catacombs, which are celebrated. 
But whatever may be your religious feelings, it is not 
desirable that you should go out of your way to visit 
the spot where St. Paul is said to have sojourned after 
his shipwreck, for it is very doubtful whether Malta 
is the Melita spoken of as the site of the apostle's dis- 
aster. 

The first steamer which calls at Malta, after our 
arrival, conveys us to Alexandria, at an expense vary- 
ing from £9 10s. to £12 10s., according to whether 
it be one of Her Britannic Majesty's packets, or one 
of the fine vessels belonging to the Peninsular and 
Oriental Company. The difference is so great for a 
voyage of only four days' duration, that it would be 
prudent to go by one of the latter vessels, which call 
at Malta on the 14th and 30th of each month. The 
second class cabins, by these last packets, cost £6 10s. 

Alexandria is not to be visited without recalling 
the wonderful marches and conquests of its illustrious 
founder, the Macedonian King ; the rule of the Pto- 
lemys, Cleopatra, the Septuagint, the Library, the 
French invasion and expulsion, and the battle of the 

8 



170 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

Nile — which last event took place at Aboukir, a little 
to the eastward. Hot and dusty, and having no 
" lion," excepting the Pillar erected by one Pompeius, 
a Prefect, and the Obelisk, called Cleopatra's needle^ 
which the English government permits to continue 
half buried in the sand, every day becoming " small 
by degrees and beautifully less," under the chipping 
process of enthusiastic tourists, Alexandria supplies 
us with no motive for remaining in the town longer 
than we can help. Four hours is the time of una- 
voidable detention. So we take the rail to Cairo. 
The distance is 130 miles — the time occupied 7 hours, 
the expense 157 Egyptian piastres, or £1 12s. 6d. The 
Egyptian piastre is w^rth 4i American cents. 

It is at Cairo that we begin to feel that we are in 
the wonderful East — the scene of the most marvellous 
incidents in the history, not of the Old World only, 
but of the whole globe. At Alexandria, and on 
the railway route, we had suspicions that we had 
travelled Oriental ground — the palm trees, the cus- 
toms of the people, the peculiar language, were all 
very suggestive ; but it is at Cairo that we are intro- 
duced to a description of life of which we have only 
been able to form a vague idea from books. There is 
so little difference in the character of the cities of the 
East, ruled over and inhabited by Mahometans, that 
at Cairo we may suppose ourselves at Bagdad, Bas- 
sorah, or Damascus. With a very little effort of the 
imagination, we can make the personal acquaintance 
of Ali Baba, the woodcutter, and the Captain of the 
Banditti — with the Caliph Haroun al Beschid, and 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 171 

Abomelique, Blue Beard. All the characters of the 
Arabian Nights, and other Eastern romances, flit by 
us in turn. The women of the better order are so 
completely enveloped in the yashmak, which only 
leaves little apertures for the eyes, that it is easy and 
pleasant to believe that they are princesses, or ladies 
of the harem. 

We visit in turn the palace of the mighty Pacha of 
Egypt — a vassal with all the attributes of an inde- 
pendent sovereign — the egg-hatching places, Yussuf's 
well, the petrified forest, the Pyramids, and the Sphinx. 
If it should happen to be the particular season of the 
year when the banks of the Nile begin to look green 
from the sprouting of the seed which the husbandman 
has scattered on the slimy deposit, it will be worth 
the fatigue and trouble of an ascent of the Great Pyra- 
mid of Djizeh, for the prospect is charming and singu- 
lar. There are 240 stones, placed stair wise, to sur- 
mount before you get to the top, and as they are each 
3 or 4 feet high, it is difficult to make the ascent without 
the aid of two or three Bedouin Arabs, who are alwa}'S 
plying at the foot of the pyramids for a job of this 
kind. Take care to divest yourself of all your clothes, 
excepting the shirt and a pair of drawers, or you will 
find your pants a little the worse for the unwonted 
stretching. And be sure that there is some one at the 
restaurant in the neighborhood who will take care of 
your things. Take no more money with you than is 
absolutely necessary to pay the donkey boys or the 
Bedouin guides, for the latter gentry endeavor to ca- 
jole the ambitious tourist who goes up the Pyramid, to 



172 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

purchase antiques — which are simply impositions, 
manufactured in Europe, to beguile people into the 
idea that they have been taken from the sarcophagi. 
The interior of the pyramid should be seen, and one 
or two of the mummy pits. 

The voyage up the Nile and back was, until re- 
cently, performed in boats, manned by Arabs ; and 
very hot and uncomfortable they were. The dirty 
habits of the people of the country were apparent in 
the condition of these vessels, which swarmed with 
vermin. Now-a-days, on the contrary, there are ex- 
cellent boats prepared expressly for tourists with 
long purses, and regular steamers under American 
auspices, and the trip can be made to Upper Egypt 
with ease, certainty, and convenience. It is unneces- 
sary to say that, within the compass of this Guide- 
book, it is impossible to enter minutely into a descrip- 
tion of the stupendous ruins which are to be found on 
the banks of the Nile, Other volumes by learned 
men — such learned men and pleasant companions as 
Mr. Wm. C. Prime — must be consulted, to convey 
an adequate idea of the grandeur of the temples, and 
the lofty character of the statues, raised by the oldest 
people in the world to the honor of their kings and 
deities, who were, indeed, almost identical. The words 
Luxor, Thebes, Karnak, Denderah, Philoe, would 
suggest the localities of stupendous labor devoted to 
pious ends, even if we had not previously, at the Syden- 
ham Palace, the Louvre, and the British Museum, 
become familiar with the idea of the mighty remains 
of an ancient and priest-ridden nation. Of the ex- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 173 

pense of a voyage up the Nile we can afford no cor- 
rect notion. All must depend on the mode of trav- 
elling adopted, and the time spent on the trip. 

Returning to Alexandria, Ave find a steamer bound 
to the Piroeus, the port of Athens, via Smyrna, the 
most prosperous city in the Levant, as the people 
of Western Europe call the coasts of Turkey. The 
fare by the steamer is 81 florins, 1st class, and 
54 florins, 2d class, and the time consumed in the 
passage is about one week. We do not visit Athens 
to see the modern town, although it contains a royal 
palace in the midst of a miserable population. No, 
we have had a pressing wish to see as much of the 
glorious temple to Athenas, the Parthenon, as time 
and the iconoclast have spared. Our thoughts run 
not upon Otho and his degenerate subjects ; we dream 
of Pericles and Phidias, and even Peristratus ; and the 
sight of the Propyloea, the temple to Theseus, the 
ruins of the Olympian Jupiter, the Areopagus, and 
other magnificent ruins, fully recompense us for the 
voyage. We have selected the Hotel des Etr -angers for 
our temporary dwelling, because though we pro- 
foundly respect M. Elias Polichronopules and M. 
Yanis Adamopolis (who conduct the Hotel oV Angle- 
terre), on account of the grandeur of their names, ,we 
prefer the more reasonable location. When at Athens, 
the traveller can suit himself and the means at his dis- 
posal, as to a little sailing about the isles in which 
Lord Byron delighted. Our business is with the route 
onward. We wish to go to Constantinople. 

Every Wednesday in the week one* of the Austrian 



174 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

Lloyds' steamers goes to Constantinople, stopping en 
route at Smyrna. The entire trip occupies six days. 
For a first class passage 30 florins are charged ; for a 
second class passage 20 florins. 

The interest attaching to an Oriental town, like 
Constantinople, is somewhat diminished by the previous 
visit to Cairo. Nevertheless, the sight of the City of 
the Sultan is decidedly grand. The Golden Horn 
merits the name it bears, from the delusive beauty of 
the city, with its glittering cupolas and minarets, in- 
termingled with trees of rich foliage, the sparkle of 
the water, the flitting of thousands of light caiques, 
the apparel of the people in the boats, and the en- 
trance to the Palace and the Arsenal at the water's 
edge. When we land, however, the real character of 
the place is at once revealed. Filth, and dirt, and 
howling dogs, paupers, agas, mumbling Moollahs, 
veiled women, reckless horsemen, insolent chaousses, 
clumsy carts, and cumbrous carriages, ruins of modern 
houses, vfhite-wash, brick, and mud-wash, make up 
the general aspect of the locale of the Sublime Porte. 
The chief mosque, St. Sophia, as it is still called, the 
Seraglio, the Hippodrome, and the Subterranean lake, 
are the sole objects which fix a momentary attention. 
Recreation must be sought in a trip to the Sweet 
Waters, the shores of the Bosphorus, the Turkish cem- 
eteries, and the Bath, which is a great luxury, with all 
its etceteras of pipes, coffee, and shampooing — which 
latter operation has a different signification to that as- 
signed to it in America, and really means kneading the 
body. The traveller will of course call upon the Min- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 175 

ister of the United States, as a mark of respect, and 
get his passport vise for Russia, by the Eussian Am- 
bassador, if he intends to follow the route chalked out 
below. 

RUSSIA, PRUSSIA, HANOVER, ETC 

It is to be presumed that no one will prefer making 
his way to .Russia, through a country so villanously 
unprovided with civilized modes of travelling as the 
Danubian Principalities. If, however, the curiosity 
of the tourist exceeds his regard for comfort, and he 
resolves to go through Bulgaria, Wallachia, and Mol- 
davia, he must seek guidance in the modus operandi 
from some authority at Constantinople. On the 
other hand, should he desire to see all the best parts 
of Russia, he will find many opportunities for making 
the trip to Odessa, northwest of the Black Sea, a dis- 
tance of 365 miles or thereabout. He must, how- 
ever, make up his mind to a detention in the Lazaretto 
of Odessa, even if the vessel carries a clean bill of 
health. The number of days depends upon circum 
• stances. The writer of these lines, proceeding from 
Asiatic Turkey to Odessa, was compelled to remain 
outside the harbor, tossed about on the roads for some 
days ; then to endure a week's confinement on board 
ship in the Mole or wharves of the city, and finally to 
spend a fortnight in a room in the Lazaretto, under 
the surveillance of an inodorous Russian infantry sol- 
dier. This quarantine system may have undergone 
some modification of late years, but it is strongly 
recommended that minute inquiry be made on this 



176 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

head before leaving Turkey, for a detention of one 
month is " most intolerable and not to be endured." 

Odessa, the most important commercial town and 
harbor in Russia, will interest the merchant. Num- 
bers of vessels come here from Italy, the Levant, and 
indeed all parts of Europe, for grain, which grows in 
vast abundance in Southern Russia. The town itself 
has a classically elegant appearance when seen from 
the sea, as many of the houses and public buildings 
have facades or porticoes after the most approved 
Greek models ; but it does not realize favorable im- 
pressions when entered. The dust or mud, according 
to the period of the year and the state of the atmos- 
phere, are intolerable. There are some magnificent 
edifices in Odessa, which owe their origin to the Duke 
de Richelieu or Count Woronzow, and a Museum 
which possesses many specimens of Greek antiquity 
brought from the Crimea. The Exchange, the ba- 
zaars, the theatre, and the granaries, will merit atten- 
tion, and it is consolatory to know that it will not 
take above one day to see everything. Society is 
agreeable at Odessa. The Greek merchants who 
swarm here, and the consuls of the different States, 
form a pleasant coterie, and are hospitable to travel- 
lers. The Hotel de Londres is the most desirable of 
all the public places of accommodation. 

The south of Russia is not, as yet, covered with 
railways. The only method of travel open to persons 
in good circumstances, is by posting. A Icibitka, or 
carriage with a leather hood and apron, drawn by four 
horses abreast, and driven by a jehu with a beard, who 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 177 

is not insensible to the luxury of wotka (a fiery spirit), 
or the efficacy of oaths, constitutes the chief mode of 
conveyance. Arrangements are made beforehand with 
the owner of such an affair, to carry the traveller to 
Moscow in, say, 14 days, and it will be his business to 
send on word to the various postmasters to have hcrses 
ready along the line of road. But not a horse will be 
let out without the production of a padaroshna, or 
posting order, from the governor of Odessa. The cost 
of this document is two copper copecks — about one 
cent — per horse, for each mile. The cost of the post- 
ing is about fourteen cents per mile, for the four horses. 
The entire distance is 1,3714 versts, or 914 English 
miles — the verst being equal to three quarters of a 
mile. Thus the expense of going from Odessa to 
Moscow, for the posting and the padaroshna, will be 
164 dollars ; to which add the pay of the coachman, 
the tolls, the refreshment and accommodation (such as 
they are !) at the miserable inns on the road. In 
round numbers, the whole cost will be 250 dollars. 
The carriage will accommodate a party of three or 
four persons, which will reduce the charge to each in- 
dividual to about 70 or 80 dollars. 

Nothing can be less interesting than the country 
lying between Odessa and Moscow — nothing much 
worse than the roads. There are two routes to the 
ancient capital of Russia. One of them runs eastward 
as far as NicolaefF, and then northerly by Kharkoff, 
Orel, Tula, and Eiazon ; the other proceeds due north, 
and, half way up, intersects the country traversed by 
the French armies on the occasion of the invasion by 

8* 



178 nortox's hand-book to Europe ; 

Napoleon in 1812. This alone entitles the latter to a 
preference ; but the roads are here a shade better, and 
Mohilev and Smolensk lie on the route. Adopting 
this route, therefore, let the traveller provide himself 
with a commissariat for the whole distance, that he 
may not be dependent on the fare offered by the Jew- 
ish innkeepers. A round of beef, boiled, a ham, a 
tongue, a case of sardines, some coffee or tea, and su- 
gar, with coffee-pot, knives, spoons, biscuit, and a 
bottle or two of Cognac, will insure a certain degree 
of independence. 

Mohilev, on the east bank of the Dneiper, is full of 
Greek and Roman Catholic convents, churches, and 
synagogues. It is a very old commercial town. , Smo- 
lensk, the capital of the government of Smolensk, is 
also on the Dneiper. There is nothing beyond the 
fact of these places having been occupied by Napo- 
leon's troops, calculated to impart to them a shadow 
of interest. 

Heartily glad to get to his journey's end, the trav- 
eller causes himself to be driven to the Hotel de Dresde, 
or to one of the boarding-houses. The one kept by 
Mrs. Howard was the best twelve years ago ; but it is 
doubtful if it still exists under the same management. 
The best of the hotels are bad, and dear, and dirty ; 
but since the coronation of the Emperor they have 
become better than they were. Silver roubles (3s. 4d. 
English) are the coins in chief use here. Of these rou- 
bles, two will be charged for rooms, one for dinner, 
and half a silver rouble for breakfast. There is no 
table d'hote at the hotel. It is right to be particular 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 179 

as to location, because it requires a week or ten days 
to see Moscow well. It should be borne in mind that 
the town is five or six miles long and as many broad. 
An order for permission to see the principal sights 
should be applied for to the governor, and a good valet 
de place engaged to act as cicerone. The Kremlin — an 
aggregate of churches, palaces, vast public buildings, 
and architectural decorations — is the chief point of 
attraction. It is truly a wonderful place. A fanciful 
gorgeousness is everywhere apparent. Gold, silver, 
and highly-wrought paintings, embellish alike cathe- 
drals, chapels, and the residences of Emperors and 
Empresses. Singular and carefully-cherished reliques 
abound in the Kremlin. Evidences of the visits of 
imperial personages are as carefully treasured as the 
religious deposits. Thrones, old chairs, beds, crowns, 
sceptres, models, arms, etc., are to be seen in profu- 
sion. Then there is the " Monarch" Bell, on its ped- 
estal of granite, the tower of Ivan Vetchi, and the 
Church of the Annunciation, all deserving of attention. 
Outside the Kremlin are other remarkable places of 
worship, with clusters of green and red domes, the 
ordinary features of Greek churches, monasteries, pal- 
aces and gardens, theatres, villas, markets, tea houses 
(quite a peculiarity of Russian life), a university, an 
anatomical cabinet, and many other objects of rational 
curiosity. And, in addition to these, the people them- 
selves are a study. Their costume, habits, pursuits, 
pastimes, language, will irresistibly fix attention. 

All the trials of patience to which the journey from 
Odessa may have subjected the traveller, are quite for- 



180 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

gotten in the intense gratification derived from so ex- 
traordinary and unique a city as Moscow — a city 
which to have entered was Napoleon's momentary 
pride, and where his ambition received the terrible 
check from which it was never destined to recover. 

At Moscow we find that the Russian government 
has condescended to follow the example of other Euro- 
pean nations, and to establish a railway, which runs 
to St. Petersburgh, a distance of 400 miles, in from 
16 to 18 hours. The fares are 19 roubles, 1st class, 
and 13 roubles, 2d class, by the express ; and 13 
roubles by the ordinary second class. There are no 
first class tickets except on the express line. 

Leaving Moscow at mid-day, and taking care to 
doff the hat as we pass beneath the Holy Gate, above 
which hangs a miraculous portrait, we set forth on 
our railway trip through a country in no wise more 
interesting than that which we had previously trav- 
elled. Russia is made up of wild steppes, immense 
grain fields, lakes, rivers, and forests of pine. The 
towns which lie on the high roads are almost all of 
the same character : whitewashed houses, chequered 
buildings, to denote government property, sentry boxes, 
also streaked black and white, churches, convents, and 
synagogues. The people have a poor and dirty as- 
pect, but in the manufacturing towns exhibit industry 
and ingenuity. There are, however, few manufac- 
tories out of St. Petersburg worth the seeing, for all 
that the Russians know they have borrowed from 
other nations. America has supplied Russia with 
many of her best engineers ; France, England, Ger- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 181 

many, Italy, and Switzerland, have also contributed a 
quota of intelligent industry. 

St. Petersburg is a totally different kind of city to 
Moscow. It is grand and spacious, but its architec- 
ture in nothing resembles the bizarrerie which we 
have just quitted. There is a cold and stately dignity 
about the vast palaces which skirt the Neva. The 
great width of the streets and public squares, almost 
bare of a moving population, adds to their imposing 
character. There are lofty churches and colossal 
statues, in keeping with the stately dwellings of Em- 
peror and princes ; and the flowing river, in its breadth 
and silence, increases the impression of the absence of 
all social intercourse in this the headquarters of the 
greatest despotism upon the earth. But after taking 
a general survey from the summit of one of the 
churches, and entering a droshky for a drive about the 
town, we find in one district a degree of gayety and 
animation which is not to be paralleled in the Boule- 
vards of Paris, the Regent Street of London, or the 
Broadway of New-York. A curve in the Neva forms 
a kind of delta, and stretching across this space, for a 
distance of two or three miles, is a promenade called 
the Nevskoi Prospekt. Here the whole population 
takes its promenade, and presents to the eye of the 
stranger a very motley spectacle. The proofs of a 
military despotism are apparent at every step. Hun- 
dreds of officers in glittering uniforms, gay carriages 
with outriders, liveried servants, and hnissiers, in for- 
midable cocked hats and plumes, ladies superbly at- 
tired, public officials in diplomatic attire, their breasts 



182 Norton's hand-book to europe; 

covered with stars and medals, the Circassian, the 
Greek, the Tartar, and the Persian, in their national 
costume, droshkies with their bell-decorated horses, 
peasants in pink shirts, bearded merchants, and slov- 
enly Jews — all go to the composition of a group un- 
seen in any other part of the world. 

Having indulged in this coup d'oeil, and previously 
depositing our luggage in one of the English boarding- 
houses, if possible (for the hotels are exceedingly ob- 
jectionable on the score of dirt and vermin), we en- 
gage a guide, who obtains the necessary orders, and 
proceed to make the round of sights, commencing with 
the Winter Palace. 

The interior of the Winter Palace far exceeds in 
splendor, if it does not approach in good taste, the 
palaces of the Emperor of the French and Queen 
Victoria. The mines of Russia have been made tribu- 
tary to the adornment of the residences of autocrats. 
Malachite is here u at home," and here also are dia- 
monds and other precious stones in rare abundance. 
Vases, pictures, and marbles, in countless profusion, 
enrich the various apartments through which the 
stranger is conducted, and gives him a very correct 
dea of the wealth of Russia, and the manner in which 
that wealth is disposed of. 

The Hermitage — lucus a non lucendo — connected 
with the Winter Palace by long galleries — is rather a 
dwelling for a sybarite than an anchorite. It was the 
evening retreat of the Empress Catharine from the 
cares of business. Externally it is nothing ; but the 
contents of the interior exhibit a highly cultivated 



OK, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WOULD. 183 

taste. It is indispensable that you go to the Hermit- 
age in full dress (evening costume), and take your full 
enjoyment of pictures, cameos, busts, gold relics of the 
tombs of the Greeks buried in the Crimea two thou- 
sand years ago. The pictures comprehend all the fa- 
mous schools. Italy, Spain, and Holland, have been 
made tributary. Russia herself has not yet found 
artists whose works merit a place in the abodes of 
Emperors. The other palaces, namely, the Taurida, 
the Marble, the Michael off, &c, are more remarkable 
for their size than anything else, for they have been 
nearly stripped of their contents. 

If it should so happen that the tourist is at St. Pe- 
tersburg on a Tuesday, let him not miss the Imperial 
Library. It is not open to visitors on any other day. 
The collection of books and MSS. in this library is 
one of the largest in the world. Among the MSS. 
are some books and letters which belonged to the un- 
fortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. The churches must 
not be passed over. They are all large, and very 
richly furnished and decorated. The Academy of 
Arts contains some capital pictures and statues. The 
manufactories of tapestry, porcelains, cotton piece 
goods, and playing cards, are likewise well worthy of 
notice. In fact, for a comparatively new city, St. 
Petersburg possesses a greater variety of attractions, 
all denotative of the riches of the rulers and the coun- 
try, and the pride successive monarchs have taken in 
the capital, than any other town in the world. The 
theatres and hospitals are upon a par, in size and 
splendor, with the other buildings. There are a few 



184 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

/ 
rides and drives about the town, and it will be worth 

while to row to one or two of the islands on the Neva, 

on which villas, &c. , have been erected. . 

Sated with our visit to the two splendid cities of 
Northern Russia, we now turn our faces westerly, and 
post it to the Prussian capital, Berlin. There will 
really be no occasion to stop at Warsaw, unless the 
Polish sympathies of the traveller irresistibly impel 
him to take a passing glance at a once proud capital 
whose glories have faded under the paralyzing influ- 
ence of the Russian government. 

There is a railway for about 100 miles to Louga. 
The rest of the distance to Konigsberg, 240 miles, 
must be travelled after the manner employed to go 
from Odessa to Moscow. From Konigsberg we get 
to Frankfort on the Oder by the rail — 350 miles — at a 
cost of 17 Prussian thalers, or 13 American dollars, 
first class — the second class is about one third less 
expensive. Berlin is 50 miles from Frankfort, and 
another railway connects the two towns. Less than 
two dollars, and two hours and a quarter of time, 
bring us to the great Prussian capital. 

What Madame De Stael said sixty or seventy years 
ago, regarding the military character of Berlin, is, if 
possible, more applicable at the present day. Both 
the animate and inanimate objects in the streets have 
a certain warlike perfume about them. Brilliant staff 
officers, guards, and dragoons, rapidly move about the 
Unter den Linden — a long and handsome street, with 
an avenue of lime trees in the centre — and the statues 
of old Bliicher, Bulow, and Scharnhorst, decorate the 
road-side. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 185 

The hotels of Berlin are very good. Indeed there 
is little difference between them. However, select 
the Hotel du Nord, or the British Hotel, for they are 
both on the Unter der Linden, which is the largest 
and most central street in the town. Indeed there is 
hardly another street worth looking at. All the 
theatres, and opera-houses, and palaces, are on this 
fine avenue. 

Arriving at the hotel give up your passport. You 
will get a room for half a dollar a day. Half a dollar 
(or less) is the sum paid for dinner at the table d'hote. 
Breakfast is served in your own room. 

The sights of Berlin may be used up in two or three 
days with a little ordinary diligence. At the same 
time, an entire fortnight may be consumed by linger- 
ing over some of the objects. Excepting on Thurs- 
day, when only the Museum is open, every day may 
be passed in visiting places of interest or amusement. 
The architectural and sculptural objects are not nu- 
merous. The chief of the latter is the bronze eques- 
trian statue of Frederick the Great. There is nothing 
superior to it in the world. The finest buildings are 
the King's Palace, the new Museum, and the Bran- 
denburg Gate. The interior of the Eoyal Palace is 
upon a scale of magnificence suitable to a monarch 
who rules almost despotically over some millions of 
human beings. But the Chamber of Art (Kunst- 
kammer) in the New Museum, is the chief magnet of 
attraction in Berlin. It contains many curious ob- 
jects illustrative of savage life, a collection of speci- 
mens of natural history, an anatomical collection, and 



186 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

a very interesting historical collection, replete with 
illustrations of the lives and habits of the great men 
of Prussia. Not the least amusing of the latter is a 
figure of " old Fritz/' Frederick the Great, " in his 
habit as he lived. ,, Another lion of Berlin is the Mu- 
seum facing the Lustgarden. It does not take rank 
with the depositories of genius at Munich or Dresden, 
but it is very rich, for all that, in sculpture, pictures, 
vases, bronzes, and other curious works of art. The 
Royal Library exhibits an immense array of books, 
and the Reading-room attached to it affords a great 
convenience to residents and visitors. The Arsenal 
deserves a visit ; Count Raczynski's gallery contains 
some interesting specimens of modern German art, 
and the Iron Foundries and China Manufactories may 
afford profitable entertainment for a few hours. The 
opera and theatres of Berlin are first rate, and outside 
the town is Charlottenberg, where the beautiful monu- 
ment of Queen Louisa, the noble wife of William III., 
is seen, and her melancholy history recalled with sor- 
rowful interest. 

Potsdam — not inaptly termed the Versailles of Ber- 
lin, because it stands in much the same relation to the 
Prussian capital that the palace and gardens of Ver- 
sailles do to the French metropolis — is reached by 
railway in 45 minutes. As the favorite abode of the 
great Frederick, and the occasional resort of Voltaire, 
Potsdam, and the gardens of Sans Souci, would on no 
account be neglected by the stranger. Many memen- 
toes, both of the King and the author of the Henriade, 
are to be seen at Potsdam, to which there are trains 
five or six times a day. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 187 

From Berlin the traveller can shape his course as 
he pleases. He can run to Dresden, the interesting 
Saxon capital, and to Leipzig, and thence can get to 
the Rhine, or to Switzerland and Italy, described in 
foregoing pages ; or, if bent on returning to America, 
he can proceed to Bremen, taking Hanover, the capi- 
tal of the kingdom of the same name. 

Dresden is more than satisfying. It has been called 
the " Florence" of Germany, and we readily endorse 
the appellation. Pleasantly situated on the Elbe, it 
abounds in rare works of art, and from the circum- 
stance of many men of taste and learning making it 
their place of residency, good taste and refinement pre- 
side over all its institutions. Of the hotels, we would 
give a preference to the Victoria, though, indeed, none 
are objectionable. Engage a valet de place (one dol- 
lar per diem), and through his instrumentality you 
will be able to penetrate the art riches of Dresden. 
The Royal Palace is a perfect mine of wealth. In its 
Green Vault, Ivory Cabinet, and other rooms, are ac- 
cumulated extraordinary works in metals and precious 
stones, wrought by Michael Angelo, or Saxon artists, 
whose skill rivalled that of Benvenuto Cellini. The 
Picture Gallery is also brilliant with first rate pro- 
ductions. Pictures there are from the pencils of Cor- 
reggio and Raphael, Rubens and Titian, Van Dyck, 
Wouvermans, and very many others. But the col- 
lection of armor in the Zwinger is the most singular 
and valuable in the world. The Zwinger is a quad- 
rangular building, once intended as a court and en- 
trance-yard to a palace, but now and always occupied 



188 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

by the Historical Museum and the Museum of Natur- 
al History. The armor in the Historical Museum 
illustrates the manners of the feudal ages, for not only 
does it comprehend all the offensive and defensive 
covering of the warriors of the period, but it likewise 
embraces the paraphernalia of tournaments, and the 
trappings and implements of the chase. More, this 
museum contains armor and weapons used in the mid- 
dle ages, and the thirty years' war, and firearms from 
the earliest dates. The Museum of Natural History 
is small and will hardly bear inspection after the col- 
lections in London and Berlin have been seen. The 
amateur of sculpture will find a field for the gratifica- 
tion of his taste in the Japanese Palace of Dresden, so 
called from certain oriental decorations on its facade. 
The collection of statuary is not large ; its quality 
more than compensates for the absence of a large 
number of rare works. The collection of porcelain 
and terra cotta will of course be examined with inter- 
est, for has not Dresden a reputation for porcelain 
manufacture which has survived all the vicissitudes of 
fashion and the mutations of taste % It will, how- 
ever, be prudent to take every precaution against be- 
ing seduced into the purchase of spurious wares. The 
" Koyal Depot" supplies the only perfect guarantee 
against imposition. 

Hanover, the next place at which we stop, was 
thirty years ago a queer old town, with a population 
of 30,000 souls. The Duke of Cambridge resided 
and administered affairs there, in the name of the 
King of Great Britain, and as all the Hanoverian 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD- 189 

army had served with the British against Napoleon, 
the aspect of the people and the troops gathered some- 
thing from association. But since the accession of 
Queen Victoria to the throne of England, Hanover 
has become an independent sovereignty, and the chief 
town in the little State has been amazingly improved. 
The Royal Palace and the Royal Library are the 
centres of attraction for the visitor who merely pur- 
poses remaining a day or two. The Hotel Royal, 
near the railway station, is as good as any other, and 
will be more convenient than one in the town for a 
person who does not stay long. Hanover treasures its 
historical reminiscences. The memory of Leibnitz is 
embalmed in the affections of the people. The public 
cemetery contains the ashes of Zimmermann, and the 
stranger is reminded that Herschel, the astronomer, 
was born at Hanover. Outside the town, in a square 
called Waterloo Place, is the lofty Waterloo Column, 
which perpetuates the names of the officers and men 
who fell in the memorable battle of June, 1815. The 
population of the town has increased to 43,000. 

To Bremen the distance is 76 miles, traversed by 
railway trains in three hours, and the fare is 90 
groschen — equal to 3 German thalers, or 2 dollars 
and 25 cents (American). Nothing is to be seen en 
route. The country is singularly dreary. 

It is unnecessary to observe to the American trav- 
eller, that the fine steamers of the German Lloyds' 
Company sail to New- York at brief intervals. 

Should the traveller, when at Berlin, determine to 
take the route to Hamburg, instead of that via Dres- 



190 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

den and Hanover, he will find a perfect railway com- 
munication open the whole distance. The fare is 8 
dollars (American), and the time consumed 8 hours. 
Neither Hamburg nor Bremen possesses any institutions 
or curiosities to invite the passenger to prolong his 
stay. Amusement, however, will be derived from the 
" life" of the former town, which, in some respects, 
resembles the seaports of Holland. 

We have now carried the tourist over a very long 
and expensive route, and we find it difficult, if not 
impossible, to estimate the gross cost, or the exact 
consumption of time. Travelling in Turkey and 
Russia, and steaming about the Mediterranean, are 
expensive and uncertain operations. So much must 
depend upon the inclinations and resources of a per- 
son selecting the tour chalked out above — the number 
of friends with whom he may be travelling — and the 
disposition to yield to the temptation to deviate from 
prescribed routes, especially after leaving Berlin, that 
it would be vain to attempt a computation that should 
approach within 500 dollars of accuracy. The tour, 
in fact, is one of those which would be more likely to 
be taken after Switzerland and Italy, or Austria and 
the Rbine had been explored. It is a kind of supple- 
mental tour. Nevertheless, if enough of Switzerland 
and Italy had been seen on the Southern trip, it would 
be easy to go to Russia from Vienna, and follow the 
foregoing route : Vienna is reached from Constantinople 
by Trieste steamers. > 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 191 

% 
PORTUGAL AND SPAIN. 

Were the interest which foreign countries awaken 
in the American mind to arise solely from the his- 
torical connection of the New World with the Old 
World, Spain would have very peculiar claims upon 
its attention and regard. For, was it not owing to 
the generous exertions and noble sacrifices of the in- 
comparable Isabella that Columbus, after eighteen 
years' begging of Courts to accept a world (as Wash- 
ington Irving so happily puts it), was enabled to set 
forth in quest of the solution of the theoiy which had 
taken possession of his heart and understanding ? 
And is not one half of the vast Southern continent of 
America more or less identified with the early Spanish 
acquisitions ? Have not the names of Cortez and 
Pizarro been made familiar to us as household words 
by the revered Prescott ? And even if historical con- 
nection had failed to render Iberia a land of pleasing 
association, can we forget that Irving lived long in 
Spain, and for some years represented America at the 
Court of Madrid — contributing by his exhaustless re- 
search, his matchless talent, and graceful pen, to per- 
petuate the renown of Columbus and his followers, 
and enhance the romantic attractions of the Alham- 
bra? 

From England, Spain may be reached either partially 
by land or entirely by water. The adoption of the steam 
packet allows of Oporto and Lisbon being visited en 
route to Cadiz, but as the traveller, after being landed at 
either of the two Portuguese ports, must wait ten days 



192 nortons hand-book to europe ; 

for the next packet to carry him in, it is doubtful whe- 
ther it would be advisable to sacrifice so much time 
where there is so little to see. Lisbon is an old town, 
finely situated on the banks of the Tagus ; possesses 
palaces, churches, convents and many associations. The 
earthquake in 1755 was an extraordinary event, and 
awakened much philosophical inquiry. The invasion 
by the French under Junot, and their subsequent ex- 
pulsion by the British under Wellington, imparts to 
the dirty capital of the Portuguese a modern historical 
interest. But we do not forget that it was at Lisbon 
Prince Henry nourished improvements in nautical 
science, and that from Belem Vasca de Gama set sail 
to run a race of rivalry with Columbus in advancing 
the cause of maritime discovery. Nor can we be in- 
sensible to the beauty of " Cintra's glorious Eden," 
lauded of poets. 

Necessarily, before leaving England for Portugal and 
Spain, the passport will be vise by the respective minis- 
ters from their courts, and a small stock of Spanish dol- 
lars will be laid in to serve until the circular letter or bill 
of exchange is used. A Spanish dollar is equivalent to 
20 reals, a real being a small silver coin worth 4£ 
cents (American). The dollar is known as a duco in 
Spain. The steam passage to Oporto costs £13 first, 
and £8 15s. second class — to Lisbon, £15 and £10 — 
to Cadiz, £17 105. and £11 15s. 

Cadiz is the first port reached after leaving Lisbon, 
and here the traveller may land to make his tour 
through the country. 

Assuming that it is hardly deemed compensatory to 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 103 

make a tedious trip to Portugal, preparatory to visit- 
ing Spain, let us suppose that the land route is chosen 
in preference, that the traveller may come down to 
Gibraltar preparatory to visiting the opposite coast. 

There are few railways excepting in the east of 
Spain. The journeys through the northern and west- 
ern and southern parts of the country are made by 
diligence, or malle poste, or on horseback. The 
malle post only admits of two persons being conveyed 
at a time, but it is the most independent though much 
the most expensive. Distance is computed by leagues 
in Spain, a league being about 3| English miles. The 
cost of travelling depends on the number of horses or 
mules employed. Six reals, or 27 cents, is paid for 
each horse per league — two leagues are travelled in 
one hour by two or four horses — and the postillion 
receives three reals a league. Travelling by diligencia, 
or public coach, is much cheaper than the malle posle, 
but to avail yourself of this mode it is necessary to 
give long notice beforehand, and be content to stop 
when it suits the arrangements of your fellow travel- 
lers. A party of six mighl hire a diligence to them- 
selves. 

Before starting on a tour through Spain, let the 
traveller make up his mind to endure a good deal of 
jolting from the badness of the roads, much privation 
at the hotels and posadas, if he be not well provided 
with a commissariat ; a good deal of imposition, fre- 
quent contact with foul smells and nuisances, and the 
chance of being plundered by banditti. This last 
feature of Spanish travel, so common and so felici- 

9 



194 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

tously described in the time of Le Sage, the author of 
the immortal Gil Bias, is by no means so prominent 
now-a-days, and may rather be mentioned as one of 
the chances than the certainties attendant on a tour. 
Still, prudence will dictate the propriety of a travel- 
ler's carrying as little as possible with him of real 
value. 

Supposing us to be at Paris when we set forth 
upon our Spanish tour, we take the rail to Bayonne, 
492J miles (English) from Paris, stopping at Tours 
and Bordeaux to break the journey and see two of 
the best provincial towns in France. Bayonne will 
engage a day or two, or even more, for it is a town 
worth the seeing, apart from all associations with 
hams, bayonets, wines, chocolate, and sorties. A very 
few miles from Bayonne is Biaritz, a. watering place 
in the Pyrenees, which the Empress of the French 
has made fashionable. At a distance which may be 
accomplished in six or seven hours, is the famous for- 
tress of San Sebastian. 

It will be for the tourist to choose his own route 
from either Bayonne or San Sebastian. But it may 
be mentioned that the towns of chiefest interest are 
those which lie in the west and centre of Spain, be- 
tween the Bay of Biscay and Gibraltar. Vittoria, 
Burgos, Valladolid, Salamanca, Madrid, Talavera, 
Toledo, Badajos, Seville, Cordova, Granada, Malaga 
to Gibraltar, will embrace nearly the whole tract of 
country covered by the armies engaged in the great 
Peninsular War, hallowed by the struggles of Spain 
to emancipate herself from Moorish domination, and 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 195 

consecrated by the muse of Byron and the fancy of 
Cervantes. Each city has some special object deserv- 
ing of notice, excepting Vittoria, which is more a 
business place than anything else. The fact of its 
lying on the high road to France, through the Pyre- 
nees, and being almost the only town so situated, 
gives it an air of bustle. Burgos possesses a remark- 
ably fine old cathedral, full of paintings, and orna- 
ments, and curious decorative architecture. Valla- 
dolid, once the capital of old Castile, boasts a museum 
containing some very fine specimens of wood carving, 
a classical cathedral, and many churches. Columbus 
died at Valladolid. Salamanca, forming the seat of 
learning in Spain, is celebrated for the great battle 
fought in its vicinity in 1812. It is now in a deplor- 
able condition, never having recovered the effects of 
the occupation of the town by Napoleon's troops. 
Madrid, the capital, of which all Spaniards are so 
inordinately proud, presents to the traveller the means 
of studying the Spanish character and habits. The 
old picturesque costumes have, in a great measure, 
given way before the fashions of France, but in other 
respects there is much originality and antiquity in 
Madrid. There are some fine old edifices in the town, 
some very indifferent hotels, certain good cafes and 
restaurants, and a museum enriched with the works 
of Velasquez, Murillo, and Juan Juares, who has 
been justly called the Raphael of Spain. Talavera 
does not court a long stay, but if the visitor can use 
his pencil, he will find many choice morceaux worthy 
of transfer to his sketch-book. At Toledo, we are in 



196 Norton's hand-book to Europe , 

the land over which the Moors held dominion. The 
town is very picturesque, very Moorish, very close, 
but remarkably clean. There is a noble cathedral 
here, containing many highly embellished chapels: 
there are, likewise, convents, churches, and syna- 
gogues ; and who that has heard of a " Toledo blade " 
will omit a visit to the sword manufactory? The 
suburbs of Toledo abound in landscapes, and are rich 
in pretty bits of scenery. Badajos is of little account, 
excepting to the English traveller, who loves to follow 
the footsteps of Wellington, and revolve in the 
" mind's eye" the sanguinary siege of 1812. It 
would be almost as well to leave it for Manzerares. 
But Seville, the next town we arrive at, is, of all the 
cities of Spain, the most attractive. History and 
fiction have alike invested it with powerful interest. 
No town has been so much sung in the ballads of 
Spain. It was the glory of St. Ferdinand that he 
wrested the city from the Moors, who have left their 
mark everywhere about the town. At Seville the 
bull fights are seen in perfection. And all the finest 
works of Murillo, which have not been carried away 
by the sword or money, adorn the Museo and the 
Cathedral. The continued influx of foreigners has 
contributed to the establishment of a better class of 
hotels at Seville than are to be found in any other 
town. From Seville we move on to Cordova, a wreck 
of its former self, but prettily situated amidst olive 
and poplar trees. Neither Eoman nor Moorish an- 
tiquities now remain, but the manufactories of chased 
silver filigree work are to be visited. Granada — i3 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WORLD. 197 

not the Alhambra here ? and the tombs of Ferdinand 
and Isabella? Had there been no other object in 
view in crossing the Pyrenees, this one alone would 
have justified the journey. Well and truly has the 
late excellent and accomplished Richard Ford written, 
11 Art and nature have combined to render Granada, 
with its Alps, plains, and Alhambra, one of those few 
p^ces which realize all previous conceptions." No 
wonder that Washington Irving was captivated, and 
gave to every land where the English language is 
spoken the charming tales suggested by his visit to 
the famous "Red Castle." Malaga is the southern- 
most point of our journey before we get to the old 
rock of Gibraltar, where a stay of some days will 
recruit fatigue and enable us to see the marvellously 
strong works of this impregnable fortress. It can 
easily be imagined with what confidence, from his 
eyrie of adamant, old Governor Elliot watched the 
French and Spaniards, who, for three or four years, 
endeavored, fruitlessly, to snatch the Rock from his 
iron grasp. 

Communication is frequent, between Gibraltar and 
the opposite coast, and it may be that some tourist 
would feel disposed to pay a visit to Algeria, and sub- 
sequently to Tetuan, preparatory to going to Egypt. 
The war, however, which rages in Morocco, while 
^his little volume passes through the press, may have 
the effect of rendering any information we may now 
give obsolete and useless, and it must therefore be de- 
ferred until a future edition. 



198 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 



Action tto<? &ntb. 

IRELAND ON THE RETURN ROUTE. 

THE pictorial beauties of Ireland are so great, that 
a tour through the u first gem of the sea " has been 
thought to deserve the appropriation of almost an en- 
tire chapter to itself. America owes so much to 
Ireland, which has sent her thews and sinews, and 
willing hearts, and she has, in her turn^ relieved the 
Green Isle of so much misery and poverty by pro- 
viding profitable occupation for hundreds of thousands, 
that it is by no means irrational to conjecture that 
Americans would take more than ordinary pleasure in 
exploring the beautiful scenery which has given the 
country so high a renown. 

Communication between England and Ireland, 
either from Liverpool, London, Bristol, or Holyhead, 
is so very frequent (daily indeed), that the tourist who 
may decide to wind up his visit to the East, by cross- 
ing to Dublin or Cork, can avail himself of the oppor- 
tunity of going over from any one of the ports to 
which he may be in the closest proximity. 



OK, HOW TO TRAVEL EN THE OLD WORLD. 199 

Let us suppose that Dublin is the first place visited 
after a ten or twelve hours' passage from Liverpool. 
The hotels are generally so good that it will be imma- 
terial which is resorted to, excepting where expense is 
a matter of consideration. For instance, at Shel- 
burne's, the Imperial, the Gresham, Reynold's, Mor- 
rison's, and the Bilton, the charges are for a bed, 3 
shillings (English), for breakfast 2 shillings, dinner 3 
shillings and upward, tea Is. 6d. , supper Is. Qd. to 
2s., and attendance Is. 6d. — while at Mackin's, 
Jury's Commercial, the "Wicklow, and Foley's, a bed 
may be had for Is. 6d., and everything else is propor- 
tionately economical. American commercial travellers 
have all the privileges of English travellers of the 
same genre, and thus get accommodated for one half or 
one third less than the rest of society. 

There are Guide-books for travellers in Ireland, the 
authors of which have so ingeniously amplified the 
u sights" of Dublin that any credulous reader would 
really suppose that it required four days to go over 
the city. Certainly, if it be intended to walk all over 
Dublin, and to take a different direction every day, to 
gaze at each church, and pause at each public build- 
ing, in order to recall the events of the rebellion of 
1798, or pay homage to the memory of distinguished 
patriots, four days might, with an effort, be con- 
sumed. We are of opinion, however, that after re- 
solving to dispense with visits to Zoological and Bo- 
tanic Gardens, and contenting oneself with a very 
moderate quantity of such architectural enjoyments as 
the contemplation of a Post-office, a Custom-house, a 



200 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

tall column, and an Academy will supply, Dublin 
may be finished off in two days, unless a hospitable 
invitation to the house or houses of one or more re- 
spectable residents should induce a prolongation of 
the visit. 

What course shall be pursued in leaving Dublin? 
Are we so limited in our resources, or so tied for time, 
that we must go away west to Galway with all con- 
venient speed 1 If so, let us at least make an excur- 
sion or two in the vicinity of the capital before we 
proceed on the uninteresting journey to our port of 
departure. The Hill of Howth is the nearest point, 
and may be reached in less than half an hour by rail. 
The fare is about 2 shillings there and back. The 
scenery from the hill is very fine. We see Marino 
and Clontarf castle en route, and at the little village 
of Howth may get a boat for two shillings to take us 
to the small island known as "Ireland's Eye." Howth 
Castle, a noble old structure, can be visited, and the 
tourist's eye will be gladdened with a sight of the two- 
handed sword, five feet seven inches long, which the 
famous Sir Amoric Tristram de Valence wielded seven 
hundred years ago. On returning from the Hill of 
Howth, if the weather be fine, there will be trme to 
go on to Bray, stopping at Dalky and Killiney Hill to 
get a view from the latter point of Dublin bay, one of 
the finest sights in Ireland. A car can be obtained to 
carry a party up the hill. 

Moore's poetry has done for Ireland what Walter 
Scott accomplished for Scotland. It has made famous 
sundry ruins and villages, and imparted additional 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THli OLD WORLD. 201 

charms to spots which Nature had previously favored. 
A few of these may be seen in a day or two — such as 
the Seven Churches, the Yale of Avoca, Lough Dan, 
the Castle and Bed of St. Kevin, to Wicklow ; New- 
town, Mount Kennedy, and the Glen of the Dowas. 
The scenery is everywhere bold and picturesque, or 
both. 

The traveller must not, however, allow his expecta- 
tions to be raised to an extravagant pitch. Matter of 
fact will be found to play havoc with matter of fancy. 
The " Meeting of the Waters," for instance, though 
sang to the sweetest of tunes, is but a poor little con- 
fluence of two tiny streams after all. 

Now, having looked at these noted spots, hie 
away by rail to the " beautiful city called Cork" — 
that is, if you would see enough of Ireland to fix the 
picturesque charms of the country in your mind. It 
is about 165 miles to "Cork, and the fares by the sev- 
eral classes of railway carriages are 30s., 265. 6cl, and 
13s. 8d. For the first 95 miles of the journey it will 
be enough if you keep your eyes wide open, for you 
will then be able to take in a very good idea of the 
general character of the South of Ireland. Cultivated 
plains and rugged heath, ruins of abbeys and castles, 
each of which is " famous' ' for something, or about 
which hang a score of traditions and suppositions, are 
seen at every interval of eight or ten miles. But you 
should stop at Cashel, the " City of Kings," for though 
there are not many evidences of regal magnificence 
now extant in the town, the Rock of Cashel in the 
vicinity should be seen. Nowhere do we find such an 

9* 



202 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

interesting collection of ruins — a lofty tower, a castle, 
a cathedral, and a monastery, form quite a feast for 
the archaeologian. Quitting Cashel, we resume the 
journey to Cork, and reach the Imperial hotel in that 
town in about eight or ten hours after quitting Dub- 
lin. If the tourist has "a frugal mind ,, he will go to 
the Royal Victoria, because he will get accommodated 
at half the expense of the other place. The American 
will not forget — if he happens to know — that Penn, 
the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to 
Quakerism in Cork. 

What with steamers, sailing, and row-boats, tho 
means are abundant of seeing all the beauties of 
Cork harbor, Queenstown, Black Rock, and Cloyne. 
Don't omit to peep at Crosshaven in the harbor. It 
is the name of the little creek into which Sir Francis 
Drake crept when pursued by the Spanish fleet. They 
called it Drake's pool, and it certainly tends to di- 
minish the ideality of the grand Armada and the 
wooden walls which opposed it. 

Our land trips from Cork embrace Blarney Castle, 
and the groves which surround it ; the groves which 
the songster has described as being so charming : 

Down by the purling 

Of sweet, silent streams, 

Being banked with posies 

That spontaneous grow there, 

Planted in order 

By the sweet rock close. 

The Blarney Stone, kissing which at once endowed 
the devotee with that persuasive language which goes 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 203 

in Ireland by the name of "blarney," is rather diffi- 
cult to identify. But there is another stone in the 
vicinity which possesses precisely the same osculatory 
virtues as the genuine article, and may be attained by 
a little climbing. The Castle is in ruins, and the 
groves are denuded of the statuesque adornments 
which have been wedded to immortal verse. 

From Cork the train runs to Mallow, and from 
Mallow there is a line to Killarney. We go there — 
everybody goes there — to see the lakes, and the scen- 
ery which surrounds them. Killarney itself is not 
particularly inviting. Beggary and offensive smells are 
the main features of the town, which, however, pos- 
sesses those indubitable proofs of a high British civili- 
zation, a Union Workhouse, and a Lunatic Asylum. 
The attraction of the lake scenery gives business to at 
least eight hotels, each of which is upon an economical 
scale. Two dollars per day is the highest sum pay- 
able for everything — except whiskey. 

One or two-horse cars can always be obtained at 
the hotels to take the tourist to the lakes. A single 
horse car costs six pence per mile, if there are but 
one or two passengers ; eight pence per mile, if they 
are three or four in number. A person accustomed to 
the grand lakes of America, and the mighty Niagara, 
will be very much disposed to treat the lakes and 
cascades of Killarney with lofty contempt ; but if he 
has any sense whatever of the beautiful, we don't think 
he will refuse to allow that the woods, mountains, and 
broad sheets of water in this romantic part of Ireland 
are extremely picturesque. He will not fail to visit 



204 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

the Cove of Dunloe, an ancient Irish library, which offers 
"sermons in stones," the Eagle's Nest, above the 
Upper Lake, so renowed for its echoes, Innisfallen 
Island, Moore's u fairy isle," Ross Castle, and Muck 
ross Abbey. It may fairly be said that nowhere is 
Ireland more beautiful. 

Killarney is nearly seventy-five miles from Limerick. 
The route embraces the whole of the lower Shannon, 
and is travelled in less than four hours. The town 
of Limerick gives a good idea of the best description 
of Irish cities ; and the country lying between it and 
Killarney, and again between Limerick and Galway, 
supplies a fair type of the rural scenery of the bright 
island. % 

There is nothing attractive in the situation of Gal- 
way, but the town itself is singular from the Spanish 
character of the old buildings with which it abounds. 
Galway bay is one of the finest in all Ireland. 

Going back to Dublin, for a starting point, another 
portion of the Green Isle may be visited with plea- 
sure by the man of business and the geologist. Bel- 
fast via Drogheda, may be reached in six or seven 
hours, and from Belfast the journey to the famous 
Giants' Causeway and the island of Eathlan, both re- 
markable lor their basaltic peculiarities, is but the 
leisure operation of a day or two. Belfast is a very 
flourishing city, and of interest to the merchant and 
manufacturer. It has been justly said to have the 
trade and manufacture of Manchester or Glasgow, 
without the smoke or dirt of either. 

Nothing more need be said, in reference to the tour 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 205 

of Ireland, than that in every part of the country- 
there is fine scenery, and proofs of the improving 
character of a land which, through misgovern ment, 
absenteeism, and a superabundant population, was at 
one time in a frightful state of misery and demoraliza- 
tion. The sale of encumbered estates to Englishmen 
has introduced capital and industry into " the first 
flower of the ocean, " and the demand for labor in 
Canada, the United States, and Australia, has re- 
moved a great amount of the pauperism which twenty 
years ago was the distinguishing social character of the 
island. 



206 NORTON'S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 



RANDOM TRAVEL. 

IN the foregoing sketch of a tour, or tours, through 
Europe, we have had in view only the adoption of 
certain routes, which would carry an American trav- 
eller into the most attractive parts of the Old World, 
in the shortest possible space of time. The leading 
idea has been kept steadily in view, that four months 
only are available, and that the expenses are not to ex- 
ceed, even for a well-to-do traveller, some fifteen hun- 
dred or two thousand dollars. But, in following this 
course, it has been impossible to avoid passing over a 
very considerable number of places which curiosity 
would naturally be stimulated to visit, and which 
could only be reached by a wide deviation from pre- 
scribed routes. Thus, in England and Scotland alone, 
the mining districts, and many of the business and 
manufacturing towns, have received no notice, al- 
though, in the eyes of a great number of Americans, 
they possess a degree of interest surpassing that 
which the general run of travellers would attach to 
the depositories of art, the beauties of nature, and the 
remnants of antiquity, the results of a high degree of 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 207 

civilization, and a tasteful expenditure of boundless 
wealth. Take, for instance, the cities of Worcester, 
and Gloucester, the ports of Bristol and Plymouth, 
the mines of Cornwall and South Wales, the cities of 
Aberdeen, Paisley, and Perth, the quarries of Scot- 
land, the salt works of Cheshire and Worcestershire, 
the potteries of Staffordshire. 

So, likewise, in regard to the vast continent of Eu- 
rope ; it has been impossible to carry the stranger by 
any route (leading to points where a direct return 
would be unnecessary) to Denmark, Sweden, Nor- 
way, Iceland, and the shores of Russia. The towns 
of Germany, famous for their waters and their gam- 
ing tables, have scarcely received attention, for it was 
not supposed that any reader would be carried out of 
his way merely to taste of minerals which are not 
essential to his health, or seek other occasion for 
spending money than was supplied by the legitimate 
claims of travel. We could find no means of going 
to Prague without disturbing the route, nor to Pres- 
burg, nor Pesth, in Hungary. Several of the towns 
in Italy, such as Rimiri and Ravenna, Turin, Alessan- 
dria, and Verona, have been omitted. Yet these and 
other places, such as the islands in the Mediterranean 
(Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica,) have many features of 
beauty and grandeur, associations of the highest order, 
which would attract the intelligent traveller who 
might have the means of passing his time among 
them. 

To supply, in some sort, the unavoidable omissions, 
the present section is written, and if no particular 



208 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

order is followed in the enumeration of objects and 
places of interest, it is because the traveller will be, 
and must be, guided by his inclinations or the accidents 
of his situation in selecting them for a visit. 

England claims priority. The city of Worcester, 
situated on the Severn, is nearly the centre of Eng- 
land, and off the Birmingham railway line, possesses 
a fine old cathedral, built originally in the thirteenth 
or fourteenth centuries, and repaired or restored in 
1830. Here will be seen the tombs of John, king of 
England, and of Prince Arthur, the son of Henry 
VII. There are several other places of worship in 
the town, but the cathedral transcends them all, not 
merely in its, dimensions and the character of its archi- 
tecture, but in its choir. Once in three years, the 
choirs of Hereford and Gloucester cathedrals unite 
themselves to those of Worcester, and a superb mu- 
sical festival is held. There are some glove and porce- 
lain manufactories, which deserve a visit ; and it will 
not be forgotten by those who delight to connect the 
history of the past with present enjoyment, that it 
was in the vicinity of Worcester that Cromwell de- 
feated Charles the Second. Fiction has also had her 
share in rendering Worcester interesting. Sir Walter 
Scott's novel of Woodstock (between Worcester and 
Oxford), and the legend of Fair Rosamond, are familiar 
to all the lovers of romance. Six miles from Wor- 
cester is Droitwich, a famous salt manufactory, which 
may be found worth the drive of half an hour. 

Gloucester, on the Great and South Western lines, 
is about twenty miles south of Worcester. The 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 209 

cathedral is the leading attraction. The monuments 
of remarkable men lend to it an interest apart from 
the elaboration of the stalls, which are only equalled v 
by those at Windsor. The monuments are in honor 
of Edward the Second, Robert, Duke of Normandy, 
Bishop Warburton, and Dr. Jenner, who first intro- 
duced vaccination. Pins, iron, flax, and hemp, are 
the chief manufactures of Gloucester, and the facto- 
ries can be seen at any time, by application to the 
persons in charge. The city is beautifully situated in 
a valley of the Severn. 

Bristol, twenty- five miles south of Gloucester, is 
more attractive on account of its commercial aspect 
than anything else. It is an old town, containing up- 
ward of 700 streets, none of which are very wide, 
docks, quays, and venerable churches. Should busi- . 
ness detain the tourist at this town, he cannot select a 
better hotel than the Western, for situation and com- 
fort. Contiguous to Bristol, up an ascent of streets, 
is Clifton, where are many handsome villas. The hot 
wells here are very prettily placed on the banks of the 
river Avon. A drive to " the point," King's Weston, 
affords a charming view of parts of two counties, Gio u- 
cestershire and Somersetshire, and the junction of the 
Avon with the sedgy Severn. 

Twelve miles from Bristol is the handsome old city 
of Bath, once a place of fashionable resort, and still 
occupied by persons of respectability and means. 
The pump-room of Bath, with the adjacent hot 
spring baths, the Abbey, and the scenery beheld from 
the upper part of the city, render it almost impossible 
to resist paying Bath a visit. 



210 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

Seventy or eighty miles south of Bristol, and upon 
the same line (the Great Western) stands Plymouth, 
one of the largest and prettiest harbors in Great Brit- 
ain. The sound, the breakwater, and Mount Edge- 
combe, and the noble basin, Hamoaze, are the princi- 
pal features ; but the manufactories in the town of 
Plymouth are curious, and, in some respects, unique. 
An extensive sail-cloth manufactory, a glass house, a 
sugar refinery, a soap factory, and a starch factory, in- 
vite the stranger's inspection. 

All along from Worcester to Plymouth the scenery 
is truly charming. The West of England is renowned 
for its exquisite climate, and the loveliness of every 
one of the counties of which it is composed. 

At Plymouth we are not more than 120 miles from 
the extremity of Cornwall. The scenery of this coun- 
ty is wild, bold, rugged ; but we dispense with any at- 
tractions on that score, for we go to Cornwall to see 
the mines, and the way in which they are worked. 
Truro is the capital of Cornwall, and here are some 
famous tin works, where tin is converted into bars and 
ingots. Redruth, a little beyond Truro, contains im- 
mense copper mines. Breage, still further, has tin 
and copper mines ; and Penzance, the most westerly 
town in England, exports the tin, and does a large busi- 
ness in pilchards. Travelling in Cornwall, out of the 
railway line, is not very comfortable, but curiosity 
reconciles one to a little occasional roughing. 

Returning from Cornwall to Exeter, a few hours 
may be passed agreeably enough in the clean and pret- 
ty old cathedral town ; and the train may then be 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 211 

changed so as to enable the tourist to take Salisbury 
en route for London. By some travellers the cathe- 
dral at Salisbury has been more admired than any 
other in Great Britain. At any rate, Stonehenge, eight 
miles from Salisbury, must not be overlooked. The 
singular collection of lofty stones arranged perpendic- 
ularly in a circle, has made Stonehenge, time out of 
mind, the subject of curious speculation. Whether 
these stones were intended for a temple by Danes, 
Druids, or Komans, is, to this hour, a matter of con- 
jecture. 

When at Gloucester, a visit to South Wales may 
possibly be preferred to the trip just chalked out. 
Lovely scenery, and iron mines and manufactories, are 
the leading features of the Welsh districts. Travelling 
is very easy and commodious, and the people are 
everywhere hospitable. Bafore taking the journey 
however, it might be well — if nothing had been done 
in the way en route from Chester — to visit Stoke-upon- 
Trent, where the potteries are in full operation. The 
famous Wedgwood ware is made at Stoke. 

Turning our attention to the North, we find certain 
places in Scotland deserving a visit, although they had 
not been included in our first tour. Aberdeen is a re- 
markably fine town, on the east coast, built of granite, 
and famous for its University. The Scotch here speak 
with a broader accent than elsewhere. From Aber- 
deen, westerly, a very pleasing journey may be made 
to Banchory, sweetly situated on the river Doon, and 
to Balmoral Castle, the residence of Queen Victoria. 
Perth, further south, and west of Aberdeen, is a pret- 



212 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

ty town, having some manufactories, and agreeably 
connected in the mind with Walter Scott's " Fair 
Maid." In the troublesome period of '45, the town 
of Perth played a conspicuous part. 

Let us now turn our attention to parts of the Euro- 
pean continent which have not been included in our 
scheme of regular travel. 

We must suppose, for the nonce, that after making 
the tour of Russia, and returning through Prussia and 
Northern Germany, the traveller finds himself at Ham- 
burg. Hey, then, for a visit to Denmark, Norway, 
and Sweden ; always providing it be not the winter 
nor the summer time ; autumn is the season. It is 
not absolutely necessary to go to Lubeck in the first 
instance, but if a desire to see the town, prevail, the 
traveller must proceed over wretched roads in a hired 
carriage, for which twenty-four Danish marks, inclusive 
of everything in the shape of driver's fees, will be ex- 
pected. Should more than one person occupy the 
carriage, the expense will of course be reduced. The 
mark is worth fourpence half penny, English — six 
marks go to one paper Regsbank dollar, and two pa- 
per Regsbank dollars are equivalent to one dollar of 
specie, worth four shillings and sixpence, English — -a 
trifle over the American dollar. Consequently, the 
expanse of the carriage will be nearly two American 
dollars and a quarter. At Lubeck, a steamer plies to 
Copenhagen, and the voyage occupies twenty-four 
hours. If preferred, the voyage might be made from 
Hamburg, via Kiel. There is a good hotel at Copen- 
hagen, called the Stadt Hamburg, where the charges 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 213 

are reasonable ; and Copenhagen and its vicinity afford 
much entertainment for a few days. The palaces are 
now in fine order. There is a large collection of pic- 
tures, and a museum of antiquities, which is not only 
enriched by some of the exhumed wealth of Greece 
and Italy, but contains a considerable variety of north- 
ern antiquities. The chief magnet, however, of Den- 
mark, is the fruit of Thorwaldsen's genius. That ad- 
mirable sculptor, whose equal has not appeared in mod- 
ern times, labored hard to adorn the capital of the lit- 
tle kingdom of which he was a native, and his works 
are accordingly found in every public edifice of any 
consequence. 

A passion for Shakespeare may induce the American 
stranger to go to Eisinore and ask for the site of the 
tragical events which embittered the existence of 
young Hamlet, the Dane. He need not deceive him- 
self, nor allpw himself to be deceived, on this head. He 
might as well ask to see the eyry where the Ameri- 
can eagle hatches her young. The sepulchral tumuli 
in Denmark are more tangible. They are as interest- 
ing in their way as the pyramids of Egypt, though 
neither as lofty nor as ancient. 

Steamers leave Copenhagen for Norway twice a 
week. You will have taken the precaution to get 
your passport vise in Denmark — or, what is better, you 
will have provided a separate special one, to enable you 
to travel in Norway, for it is the practice in the latter 
country not to return the passport. 

Do not expect to find in Christiana or Chris- 
tiansand — the principal towns in Norway — either the 



214 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

splendor, the bustle, or gayety, by which the majority 
of the towns in Europe are distinguished. Broad, 
clean, deserted streets, destitute of fine palaces and 
well-stocked museums, are the simple characteristics of 
these cities. It is in the boldness of the scenery, the 
grandeur of the fiords, and the mountains which skirt 
them, that the stranger must seek his recompense for 
the immense fatigue attendant upon travelling in these 
regions. Homely fare must content the epicure, and 
the society of rough fishermen be accepted by the most 
polished tourist. 

From Christiana there is a good road to Gotten- 
burg, in Sweden ; and the tourist, who doss not de- 
light in a prolonged stay in Norway, hastens to take 
it, en route to Stockholm. Salmon and lobsters, Port 
wine and porter, are obtained in perfection at Gotten- 
burg ; these will gratify the most fastidious palate, 
while the ethnologist will be delighted with the spec- 
tacle of stalwart men and powerful women who have 
descended from the heroes who fought under Charles 
the Twelfth and Gustavus Adolphus. At Gotten- 
burg, a steam packet leaves once a week, generally on 
a Sunday, for Stockholm. The passage money is 
twenty dollars banco, in a miserably small cabin, 
where four persons of all degrees of cleanliness are 
berthed together, or twenty-five dollars banco if a 
stowage of three individuals is deemed preferable. 
The dollar banco is worth Is. 8d. English. The pas- 
sage money does not include the mess, or restauration, 
which comes to a dollar banco per diem, exclusive of 
liquors of any kind, in which coffee is comprehended. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 215 

The eatables are not of a very savory kind. You 
must be a Swede to relish mutton-broth highly salted, 
with sweet current dumplings, sour-cream, and mys- 
terious sausages. Excepting the magnificent contrast 
of the Trolhattan, and the immense Wennern lake, 
there is not much in the scenery during the five days' 
voyage to delight the eye, until the steamer approaches 
the Swedish capital, and enters the Malarin lake. 
Imagine 1300 islets dotting the lake, each islet 
covered with villas, churches, and gardens. It is 
quite an enchanting spectacle, or rather a series of en- 
chanting spectacles ; and in respect to Stockholm it- 
self, the visiter must seek his delectation in the natu- 
ral beauties of the site of the town, and not in the 
town itself; for the objects of interest within it are few 
in number and contemptible in quality, after what has 
been seen in the more southern parts of Europe. A few 
relics of Charles XII. and the Gustavuses, make up the 
sum total of the curiosities. The pictures in the pal- 
aces are nihil. But cannot a passionate lover of mu- 
sic compensate himself for the scantiness of material 
objects, by reflecting that Jenny Lind was born in 
Sweden? 

Upsala and the mines of Sweden complete the pecu- 
liarities of the northern shores of the Baltic, which we 
will not suppose the traveller to be anxious to explore 
much further. 

Let us now glance at the sunny south, and see 
what places we have been obliged to pass by unno- 
ticed in our systematic tour. 

In Switzerland we forbore to visit Chamouni and 
clamber Mont Blanc, and there will be no harm done 



216 Norton's hajs t d-book to euro pe ; 

if the ascent be not accomplished. The sunrise or 
sunset, casting rose-hues on the snowy hill-tops, are 
just as well seen in other localities. But Chamouni 
is prettily situated, and abounds with accommodation 
for tourists, who of late years have become very nu- 
merous. In Italy we omitted to see Parma, once the 
abode of Maria Louisa. There are some very fine 
pictures byjOoreggio in the cathedral of Parma, and 
in two other churches, the convent, and the Academy 
of Fine Arts. The subterranean chapel of the cathe- 
dral, with its twenty-eight marble pillar^, is very cu- 
rious. Rimini and Ravenna lie rather out of the way, 
and require some strong passion for Italian poetry to 
induce travellers to go off the railway line to see them. 
The ideal Francesca, and the actual triumphal arch of 
Augustus, are the persuasions to the first-named place ; 
the tomb of Dante — a ^ood monument — and the 
paintings of Guido, which adorn the cathedral, form 
the attractions in the latter. 

No provision has been made in the chapter treating 
of Italy, for a glance at Genoa and Turin. Entering 
Sardinia by Mount Cenis, to the westward, would in- 
evitably bring the tourist to the elegant capital of 
Victor Emmanuel, and in like manner the city might 
be approached without difficulty from Genoa. To 
get to Genoa, however, it would be proper to go down 
to Marseilles, and deferring the voyage to Malta, &c, 
run on to Nice, and thence to Genoa. Nice may be 
all very well for a permanent residence, but it has lit- 
tle to recommend it to a passing visiter. Genoa, on 
the other hand, which the natives proudly called " the 



OR, 



217 



superb," is a rare and quaint old town, with lofty 
houses and narrow streets, which keep out the sun. 
The lover of fine paintings may revel in the 1*orks of 
art abounding in Genoa, from the monument to Co- 
lumbus, who was born there, to the statues of the de- 
parted great, in the Dogana, or Custom House. The 
pictures in the churches are numerous, and com- 
prehend the works of Guido and Guercino, Yandyck, 
Annibal Caracci, Carlo Dolce, &c. The palaces are 
many in number, and line the chief streets. But 
Genoa has little of actual beauty in its vicinity, and, 
like Venice, is but the shadow of its former self. 
The Tuscans say of Genoa that it is remarkable for 
its " sea without fish, heights without trees, men with- 
out faith, and women without virtue." All the 
Italian States have some proverb in ridicule of each 
other. The hotels at Genoa have so good a repu- 
tation, and are so uniform in their charges, that it 
matters little which of them may be selected. Turin, 
five hours' rail from Genoa, will be found a very 
pleasant town for a short visit. The Sardinian 
troops, in their gay costumes, and the scenery around 
the city, form an agreeable contrast with the palaces 
and churches, the latter of which exceed one hundred 
in number and are much decorated. The Hotel del 
Europe is an excellent hostelry, and so is the Hotel 
Feder. You may write to England or France twice 
a day, thanks to the excellent post-office arrangements 
at Turin, and there are plenty of opportunities of 
driving about pleasantly in the vicinity of the town. 
Between Genoa and Turin lies the fortress of Ales- 
10 



218 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

sandria, a very strong piece of work, which constituted 
part of the base of operations in the last war between 
Piedmont and Austria. 

Prague, the capital of Bohemia, is equidistant be- 
tween Vienna and Berlin, and there is a good railway 
from either place. It is a very fine old town, divided 
by the river Moldau, the two divisions being con- 
nected by a singular old bridge. Its celebrity rests 
on its religious tone when the Catholic and Protestant 
gave way to bitter strife ; on the manufacture of Bo- 
hemian glass ; and on the famous battle which our 
grandmothers endeavored to depict on the harpsichord 
in notes "most musical, most melancholy." There 
are three capital hotels at Prague — the best being the 
Hotel de Saxe. A good deal of Bohemian nationality 
is kept up at Prague which lends an exclusive interest 
to the town. Engage a valet de place (it will only 
cost 75 cents per day), and he will take you round the 
town and the environs, which are remarkable for the 
beauty of their aspect. 

Of the islands in the Mediterranean, it will suffice 
to say, that after the supposed visit to Naples or Malta, 
it will be the easiest thing in the world to engage a 
passage in a steamer to Palermo or Messina for 40 or 
28 francs, according to the class, and pass a week 
most agreeably in exploring the beautiful island of 
Sicily. To say nothing of the exquisite mountain 
scenery, there are several handsome towns on the 
island — Catania, at the foot of Mount Etna, — Palermo, 
Syracuse, Marsala, Messina, Girgente, and other 
smaller places. Each of these boasts either of wine 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 219 

factories, or silk factories, interesting Greek or Koman 
ruins, museums, &c. There are capital hotels at Pa- 
lermo and Messina, and plenty of vetturas of all kinds, 
horses and mules, to cany the tourist over the island. 

We do not suppose that there will be any very 
feverish desire on the part of the traveller to visit Cor- 
sica or Sardinia. Should he, however, entertain such 
a wish, he will be able to gratify it when at Genoa, 
for steamers go to Fortotorres, or Cagliari, in Sardinia, 
every Wednesday morning, and will transport him for 
55 or 35 francs (provisions included) in a couple of days. 

The climate of the island of Sardinia is very in- 
salubrious, and can only be safely encountered between 
January and June ; and even during the winter 
months, it is hazardous. The inconveniences of 
travelling are considerable, for there are many rivers 
which continually overflow their banks, rendering 
part of the country impassable. The only curiosities 
in Sardinia are some tumulous remains, of greater 
antiquity than the Koman era. 

It does not occur to us to mention any other places 
in the Old World which American tourists might be 
likely to visit, or that it is very desirable they should 
visit, unless perhaps we name Iceland, to which a 
feverish curiosity may possibly carry some ethnologists 
— (vessels go occasionally to Spitsbergen from Chris- 
tiansand and Hamburg) ; but if any have been omitted, 
we must refer the tourist for further information re- 
specting miscellaneous routes in Europe, &c, to 
Bradshaw's Guides, albeit the operation attendant 
upon the search, may involve a little trouble and not 
a little bewilderment 



220 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 



$trtim Vxt ptttft, 

THE TRAVELS OF A " POOR YOUNG MAN ;" OR A YEAR IN 
EUROPE FOR $600. 

AT page 16, it is stated that "a person who has but 
five hundred dollars may go to Europe, see much, 
and return home ; but he must make up his mind to 
some privation, and to the use of his legs where others 
of larger means would employ vehicles." 

We should hardly have ventured upon this assertion 
had we not known for a fact that the feat had been abso- 
lutely accomplished ; and now that the modus operandi 
has been disclosed to us, we can perceive how any young 
man of good constitution and strong resolution can ac- 
commodate a slender purse to the gratification of a 
laudable curiosity and an honorable ambition. That 
a considerable amount of Spartan simplicity and Spar- 
tan privation must be undergone it is very easy to 
suppose, but to the American who has accustomed him- 
self to " rough it" in the far westerly and southerly 
districts of his own country, these matters will appear 
trifling in the presence of the great end he proposes to 
accomplish. The qualities which will be the most se- 
verely taxed in the little enterprise will be self-control 
and forbearance. It is easier to walk wearily and to 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WOHLD. 221 

pass the day fasting without a stiver in the purse, than 
to see vehicles and equestrians passing, and meats 
smoking, and yet to deny oneself the pleasure of a 
ride or a Barmecidal feast with the money at hand for 
immediate gratification. Respice jinem must ever be 
kept in mind. A slight indulgence far away from 
home may place at hazard the opportunity of return- 
ing. A friendless foreigner, with an empty purse, ex- 
ceedingly anxious to regain his native land and re- 
sume his occupation, is a painful spectacle — an object 
of pity — and a melancholy warning. Let no one, 
therefore, who has not foresight and moral courage, 
self-denial, and a feculty of minute calculation, under- 
take to cross the Atlantic and enjoy himself in Europe 
for a year, on five hundred dollars. 

The grandest item of expenditure, and at the same 
time the least useful, though quite unavoidable item, is 
the cost of the passage across the Atlantic and back. 
This cannot be accomplished in a steamer for a less 
sum than one hundred and twenty-five dollars, unless 
the adventurer is content to go with the emigrants, 
returning emigrants in the steerage. In a sailing 
vessel the two trips will certainly cost less, but 
the consumption of time will be at least doubly as 
great. In fact, it is impossible to compute the num- 
ber of weeks that may be passed at sea in a vessel en- 
tirely at the mercy of winds and currents. Assuming 
"time" to be " money" in this case, the steamers will, 
of course, be adopted, and thus our " young man" 
lands in England with four hundred and fifty-five dol- 
lar^ of which sixty-five must be sternly put aside, to 



222 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

meet the expense of the return passage. A " circular 
letter," obtained from an American banker of undoubted 
respectability, will be at once the safest method of car- 
rying money and the most certain guarantee against 
the temptation to spend too much in the pleasurable 
pursuit of knowledge and entertainment. 

It may be presumed that, in nine cases out %f ten, 
the leading object of the adventurous tourist will be to 
see England, Scotland, and Ireland. In the gratifica- 
tion of this desire, a man with a light purse will be 
put to a severer trial than he would have to undergo 
if his wanderings were chiefly directed to the southern 
parts of the continent of Europe. The charges for ac- 
commodation and food, even in the humblest descrip- 
tion of inns, are much higher in England than in Italy, 
Germany, or France ; the means of transport, except . 
by railway, are comparatively few, and the peasantry, 
of England at any rate, sadly wanting in kindness and 
courtesy to the traveller who seems poor. Everybody 
who does not go from place to place by using the or- 
dinary method open to folks with plenty of money, is 
looked upon in England either as a deserter, a tramp, 
or a vagabond. The picture drawn in Charles Dick- 
ens' Chimes, of the man without a habitation, is, un- 
happily, too just, and " to jail with him" is often the 
lot of the pedestrian who, from a sense of indepen- 
dence, refuses to " give an account of himself" to some 
pompous Dogberry, or pretentious Minos. The 
u wandering minstrel" who grinds an organ or a hur- 
dy gurdy, and exhibits in his tatters and brown com- 
plexion his real condition and foreign origin, is driven 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 223 

from parish to parish as a vagrant ; but the youth who 
would bedeck himself in a green tunic, a doublet and 
feather, cultivate a black beard and moustache, and 
sling a guitar over his shoulder, would be treated as a 
gentleman, especially if he should go into the best pub- 
lic houses and call for " beer all round." The infer- 
ence we would have the reader draw from all this, is, 
that if he travels afoot he must be satisfied with see- 
ing very little of the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
and Ireland, and seek his compensation in a very pleas- 
ant journey along the highways and byeways of the 
continent of Europe. 

Assuming, however, that England, under all circum- 
stances of disadvantage, is the primary object of the 
tourist, we commend to him the following few gener- 
al hints for his guidance : 

Firstly, let him ride in third class railway carriages 
in preference to walking. He will thus save time 
and escape the fleecing of hotel and inn-keepers, and 
the coarse insolence of peasants and wayfarers. It 
should be remembered that education is not universal 
in England, and that courtesy, one of the inevitable 
results of good schooling, is consequently unknown 
among the rustics. 

Secondly, set down expenditure for food and lodg- 
ing at one dollar and twenty cents a day, of which one 
third will be consumed in the second item. A bed 
for less than one shilling English is nowhere obtaina- 
ble — the charge is more generally one shilling and six- 
pence. Then the servant, either a chambermaid or a 
waiter, and more frequently both, expect a fee. With 



224 Norton's hand-book to Europe; 

the residue, a sufficiency of meat and good beer, 
can be purchased to sustain nature and fit the 
traveller for his work. 

Thirdly, rise at six a. m., and walk until half past 
eight, or as near that hour as may be, when a farm or 
road-side inn is reached where breakfast is procurable. 
Allow two hours for rest and breakfast, and walk, 
with rests for sketching, talking to natives, and inspect- 
ing objects of nature, until four or five p. m., when 
opportunity may present itself in some village for get- 
ting a hearty dinner. 

Fourthly, wear a costume as little calculated as pos- 
sible to attract attention. A black alpaca frock and 
trowsers, with a brown Holland blouse thrown over 
them, a leathern belt and a felt hat, will answer all 
purposes. Divested of the blouse, the pedestrian tour- 
ist is dressed for any occasion. Take care to have two 
stout pair of high-lows or ancle boots. They are 
made of better material and greater strength in Eng- 
land than in America, and cost less money. The 
same observation applies to every description of cloth- 
ing. Be provided with a good thick stick for the 
double purpose of support and defence. Carry two 
clean shirts, two pairs of stockings, a pair of drawers, 
and three or four handkerchiefs, a piece of soap, a 
towel, comb and brushes, either in a knapsack or bun- 
dle. The bundle excites less notice among a peas- 
antry, but the knapsack is by far the most convenient 
and least burdensome to the traveller. It leaves his 
arms quite free ; there is no fear of its being left be- 
hind in an occasional stoppage, and it is more protec- 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 225 

tive of the little wardrobe. A sketching portfolio and 
a book or two to beguile the hour, may find places in 
a knapsack. Carry the passport and circular letter in 
a breast pocket of the coat, and in your other pockets 
take care that there are to be found a knife, a pair of 
scissors, a leathern purse, and a small housewife con- 
taining needles, thread, and buttons. iThere is a good 
deal of wear and tear in pedestrian travelling, and 
seamstresses are not always at hand. 

The last two hints (the third and fourth) are appli- 
cable to all countries into which the footsteps of the 
wayfarer may carry him. 

London will of course be the chief object of attrac- 
tion. This great Babylon is more easily reached from 
Southampton than Liverpool, and affords a better op- 
portunity for a walk. The country between Hamp- 
shire and London is more beautiful than that lying 
between Lancashire and the Metropolis. Even the 
walk, not always very cheerful, may be shortened by 
taking the trains to Portsmouth and thence to Brigh- 
ton, after a promenade through a part of the Isle of 
Wight. 

Arrived in London, seek a lodging in the most cen- 
tral part of the west end. For seven or eight shil- 
lings a week a bed-room and attendance may be ob- 
tained in any of the streets running out of Eegent 
street, the Strand, or Oxford street — three long streets 
which, in their connection, form the chief artery of 
London. Dine at any of the eating houses (which are 
numerous) in the vicinity. A beef steak, mutton or 
pork chop, a veal cutlet, liver and bacon, slices from 

10* 



226 Norton's hand-book to europe ; 

fine joints of roasted and boiled meats, with potatoes 
or cabbage, bread, a glass of good ale or porter and a 
piece of cheese, cost a fraction over a shilling English. 
Breakfast, limited to a couple of cups of tea or coffee, 
two eggs, chop or fried bacon, may be generally con- 
tracted for at the lodging. At all events it is equally 
procurable in the immediate vicinity for less than a 
shilling. Pamphilion's in Sherrard street, Golden 
Square, close to the bottom of Regent street, and Lind- 
say's in Air street, Regent street, have a vogue for 
cheap and good breakfasts. But an American will do 
well to inquire which of the coffee houses (if any) 
take in the papers of the United States, that he may 
know what goes on in the New World ; and if they are 
not to be found in either of those places of "good en- 
tertainment," he will do well to call at Morley's Hotel 
in Trafalgar Square, or walk to Peele's in Fleet street, 
or to the North and South American coffee house in 
the city. 

The object of our "poor young man" being to see 
everything as cheaply as possible, he will naturally 
select those sources of amusement which cost the least. 
Admission to the following costs nothing : the British 
Museum, the National Gallery, the East India Mu- 
seum, the South Kensington Museum, the Courts of 
Law at Westminster Hall, the Museum of the College 
of Surgeons, the Soane Museum, Westminster Abbey, 
the Royal Exchange, the Coal Exchange, the Parks, 
and a few others. 

The Crystal Palace at Sydenham is entered for one 
shilling ; but it is a long walk there, and a very long 



227 

walk within, over the aisle and transept, naves, galle- 
ries, and gardens. All this may be saved by taking a 
return railway ticket (third class), which only costs 
eighteen pence. The Coliseum, Regent's Park, Tus- 
saud's wax work, St. Paul's Cathedral,- the Gallery of 
Illustration, the Egyptian Hall, and all the Picture 
Galleries of the Royal Academy and various Societies, 
may be entered for one shilling each. Indeed the 
" shilling" has become the universal admission fee to 
panoramas, concerts, and entertainments of the parlor 
species, with the large addition of eighteen pence for 
those who choose to be very grand and aristocratic, 
and have seats in front of the oi polloi. But we have 
known countesses and 'marchionesses to be very well 
satisfied with shilling seats. Admission to the pit or 
parquet of some theatres is one shilling, but two shil- 
lings being the more common charge, our pedestrian 
must be content with the gallery, where, if he goes 
before the doors open, at half past six invariably, he may 
get a good front seat and see famously. Trips up and 
down the river Thames — in themselves offering curious 
and interesting sights in the houses, factories and 
wharves, the superb bridges, and the innumerable 
spires rising above the densely populated town — may 
be enjoyed for a few pence ; and a journey to Rich- 
mond, Greenwich, Hampton Court, or even Windsor, 
will only cost a shilling or two, and the walks around 
those favorite spots are in the highest degree beautiful 
and picturesque. 

After a feast of London (and a week well employed 
will suffice), other portions of England and Scotland 



228 NORTON S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 

and Ireland, may be visited without any extraordinary 
difficulty and certainly with pleasure and profit. The 
earlier sections of this volume will afford information 
as to the most desirable places of resort, but as all of 
these cannot be visited under the limitations of ex- 
pense we have supposed, the following sketch of a 
route actually followed by a young American travel- 
ler may be taken as a sate guide to attainable locali- 
ties of interest. 

Go by rail (third class) to Coventry. On with the 
knapsack and walk — the road is excellent — to Kenil- 
worth, Warwick, and Stratford-upon-Avon. Thence 
to Worcester. William Shakespeare walked over 
the same ground three hundred years ago. From 
Worcester bend your steps to Birmingham, and then 
York — by rail ; then, by the same kind of conveyance, 
across to Lancaster, and Fountain Abbey. It should 
be observed that the young man who went both to 
Worcester and York was a musical amateur — a raven- 
ous devourer of sweet sounds — a very cormorant. A 
musical festival was toward, and he did not wish to 
lose the great feast which a combination of fine choirs 
in superb old cathedrals offered him. But the trav- 
eller with whom music is not a belle passion, will prob- 
ably be satisfied with Worcester cathedral alone, and 
so save the time and money exacted on a visit to 
York. From Lancaster we glide into the lake dis- 
tricts or to Carlisle, and walk along Yarrow to Sel- 
kirk in Scotland. This brings the traveller to Mel- 
rose, Jedburgh, Roxburgh, and Abbotsford — the land 
of Scott — and moving still northeasterly he gets to 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 229 

Berwick-upon-Tweed. The train runs to Edinburgh. 
From " Edina" to Stirling Castle, Lochs Katrine and 
Lomond, making the half circle to Glasgow — the walk 
is very agreeable. The Scotch peasantry are civil 
people, and kind. A steamer runs from Glasgow to 
Dublin. Only two or three days can be spared for a 
glimpse at " Ould Ireland," and back we go, selecting 
a Liverpool steamer this time, so that Manchester may 
be seen en route to London. 

The gentleman who made the foregoing trip, went 
from New- York to London direct ; and consequently 
missed Southampton, &c, until he proceeded to 
France, when he embarked at Southampton for Havre, 
and thence proceeded to Paris. From Paris, his route 
was as follows: Orleans, Nevers, Bourges, Lyons, 
Marseilles, Nice. Then on foot along Cornihe road to 
Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn, Florence. From Florence he 
pushed on to Rome, returning to Florence by Viterbo 
and Sienna. He was unavoidably obliged to deny 
himself the pleasure of going to Naples, which would 
not probably have been necessary if he had been more 
temperate in his musical feasts at Worcester and York. 
Leaving Sienna he proceeded to Lucca, Pistoja, &c. , 
returning to Florence for the third time. This was a 
terrible piece of wilful extravagance ; but who can re- 
sist Firenze's wooings *? Leaving Florence, for the 
last time, in a state of grief that can be imagined, our 
" poor young man" went to Bologna, Ravenna, and 
along the shores of the Adriatic to San Marino, and 
Rimini, taking steamer to Trieste and Venice, whence 
he manfully walked to Padua, Vicenza, Verona, Bre- 



230 Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 

scia, Bergamo, Milan, Turin, Aosta, and crossing the 
Alps by the St. Bernard, got to Lausanne and Gene- 
va, whence he returned to Paris. 

Travelling in this way, within the limit prescribed 
as to time, requires that the pedestrian shall walk 
from fifteen to twenty miles a day. The cost of food 
and lodging in France should not exceed sixty-five 
cents a day — in Italy sixty cents. Italy is by far the 
most favorable country for a pedestrian journey. The 
roads are generally good, the villages frequent (for 
which, however, the maps are no guide), and the 
people courteous and conscientious. They rarely at- 
tempt to cheat. " I found," writes our young friend, 
" the bedding clean, and the food, by the aid of a few 
cents' worth of fruit from a stand in the street, after 
each meal, very good and abundant. I could make 
a sumptuous breakfast for ten to twenty-five cents, but 
no satisfying dinner for less than twenty cents." The 
breakfast here alluded to consisted of coffee and milk, 
biscuit, eggs, figs, chestnuts, and oranges ! Admission 
to the picture galleries and museums in Italy is gratis, 
and the operas and theatres can be entered for a few 
cents. 

When it is intended to stay a week at Rome, Flor- 
ence, Naples, or Paris, it is better to engage a room, 
which can be done (including attendance) for about 
five dollars a month. Luxurious dinners can be had 
at Rome for thirty cents, and a sufficiency of soup, 
with a cutlet and potatoes, can be had for that sum 
in Paris. 

There is one expense attendant upon continental 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IX THE OLD WORLD. 231 

travelling, which no one can escape, and which affords 
no scope for economy — and that is the fees on the vises 
of passports. Twenty dollars must be set aside for 
that item alone. 

There seems to be little else worthy of mention to 
guide a young man in his pedestrian tour through Eu- 
rope, excepting in regard to the countries he may be 
disposed to select. It is to be presumed that he will 
give a preference to the picturesque and frequented 
roads, and avoid all barren lands and inhospitable peo- 
ple. No portions of Russia, either south, middle, or 
north, can be walked with any pleasure or advantage. 
Northern Germany — such as Prussia, Hanover, the 
Hanseatic towns, should be avoided. Spain and Por- 
tugal present few temptations, and the Danubian Prin- 
cipalities have no compensating qualities. Italy and 
Switzerland, Austria, Bavaria, Bohemia, and France, 
in the valley of the Phone, are the localities for choice. 
The north of France is bare of interest, and Holland 
and Belgium had better be traversed by rail. A per- 
fectly level country, which only repeats itself at every 
step, is wearisome to the traveller on foot who seeks 
for natural beauty and agreeable variety. 



232 



NORTON S HAND-BOOK TO EUROPE ; 



THE PEDESTRIAN'S VOCABULARY. 



The following words and phrases comprise nearly all 
that would be required by a person walking through 
France and Italy. If he should not happen to be ac- 
quainted with either the Italian or French languages, 
the following rules for pronunciation may help him a 
little : 

The letter a is pronounced, in both languages, broad, as in ah ! 

The letter e is pronounced like the English a. 

The letter i is pronounced like our ee. 

The letter k, in French, has a singularly soft sound, and can hardly be 
represented in -writing. It comes nearer the u in music than in any 
other word. 

The letter c, in Italian, before the vowels e and t, is pronounced like 
ch in choice. Thus, pace is sounded pacha. 

The letters ch y in Italian, are pronounced like Je. 

The letter g, in Italian, coming before J, is never pronounced. Thus 
voglio becomes volio. 



ENGLISH. 


FRENCH. 


ITALIAN. 


I am, 


Je suis, 


Sono. 


You are, 


Vous etes, 


Siete. 


I was, 


J'etais 


Era. 


You are, 


Vous etes, 


Eravate. 


I shall be, 


Je serais, 


Sard. 


Sing, 


Chantez, 


Cantate. 


I thank you, 


Je vous remercie, 


Ringrazie. 


Sir, 


Monsieur, 


Signor. 


Madam, 


Madame, 


Signora. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 233 



ENGLISH. 

Good, 

Bad, 

I want, — 
A ted, 

Some dinner, 
Some supper, 
Some breakfast, 

Show me the way to 

"Where is ? — 
The post-office, 
The railway station. 

The landlord. 

The theatre, 
Will you, 
I shall go, 
After, 

If you please, 
I have been, 
Without, 
What ? How ? 
Why? 
All, 

This, that, 
Morning, 
Evening, 
Night, 
Both, 
Yes, 

Come here, 
Look, 
I will, 
I will not, 
How much ? 
How far ? 
Third class, 
What s o'clock ? 

S 
I will pay, 
I will give, 
Call me, 
To-morrow, 
Yesterday, 
To-day, 



FRENCH. 

Bon, 

Mauvais, 

J'ai besoin de — 

Un lit, 

Du diner, 

Du souper, 

Un dejeuner, 
Indijuez moi a, 
Ou est, — 

Le bureau de la poste, 

La station du chemin 
de fer, 

Le Maitre d'hotel, 

Le Theatre, 
Voulez vouSj 
J'irai, 
Apres, 

S'il vous plait, 
J'ai ete, 
Sans, 

Comment ? 
Pourquoi ? 
Tout (le tout) 
Ce, Ceci. Cela, 
Le Matin, 
Le Soir, 
La Nuit, 
Tons deux, 
Oui, 

Venez ici, 
Regardez, 
Je veux, 
Je ne veux pas, 
Combien ? 
Quelle distance ? 
Troisierae classe, 
Quel heure est il ? 
Arretez, 
Je paierai, 
Je donnerais, 
Eveil lez moi, 
Demain, 
Hier, 
Aujourd hui, 



ITALIAN. 

Buono. 

Cattiva. 

Mi besogna — 

Uno letto. 

Qualche Pranzo. 
" Ceno. 
" Colazione. 
Indicatemi a. 
Dove ?— 

L'Uffizio da Posta, 

La statione de strada 
ferrara. 

L'Albergatore. 

II Teatro. 
Yolete. 
Andro. 
Dopo. 
Se vi pace. 
Sono stato. 
Senza. 
Che? 
Perche. 
Tutti. 

Questo, Quella. 
La Mattina. 
La Sera. 
Le Notte. 
Tutti due. 
Si. 

Yieni. 
Ecco. 
Yoglio. 
Non Yoglio. 
Quanto ? 

Quanto distante ? 
Terzo classa, 
Che ora e ? 
Rimani. 
Me paghera. 
Daro. 

Mi sveglierete. 
Domano. 
Jeri. 
Oggi. 



234 



Norton's hand-book to Europe ; 



One hour, 

What name ? 

My hat, 

My coat, 

My shoes, 

My trowsers, 

My waistcoat, 

My stick, 

Wash my shirt, socks 

and handkerchief, 
A little, 
Must I go, 

To the right ? 

To the left ? 

Straight on ? 
Passport, 
Have you a letter for 

me ? 
Steamer, 
Give mb — 

Some bread, 

Some butter, 

Some soup, 

Some meat, 

Some salt, 

Some pepper, 

Some mustard, 

Some wine, 

A knife, 

A fork, 

A spoon, 

Some coffee, 

Some tea, 

Some milk, 

Some sugar, 

Some fruit, 

Some brandy, 

Some paper, 

Some ink, 

Some water, 

Some soap, 

Some cheese, 

A fowl, 

Some vegetables, 



FRENCH. 

Une heure, 

Quel nom ? 

Mon chapeau, 

Mon habit, 

Mes souliers, 

Mes pantalons, 

Ma veste, 

Mon baton, 

Lavez ma chemise, bas, 

et mouchoir, 
Unpeu, 
Faut il aller, 

A droite ? 

A gauche ? 

Tout droit ? 
Passeport, 
Avcz vous une lettre 

pour moi ? 
Bateaa a vapeur, 
Donnez moi — 

Du pain, 

Du beurre, 

Du potage, 

De la viande, 

Du sel, 

Du poivre, 

De la moutarde, 

Du vin, 

Un coutean, 

Une fourchette, 

Un cuillier, 

Du cafe, 

Du the, 

Du lait 

Du sucre, 

Du fruit, 

Du cognac, 

Du papier, 

Del' encre, 

Del' eau, 

Du savon, 

Du fromage, 

Un poulet, 

Des legumes, 



ITALIAN. 

Un oro. 

Come si chiama? 
II mio capello. 
II mio abito. 
II mio scarpe, 
11 mio calzoni. 
II mio vesta. 
II mio bastone. 
Lavete il mio Camicia, 

Calze e Fatzoletto. 
Un poco. 
Debbo voltarmi poi. 

A destra ? 

A sinistra ? 

Diritto ? 
Passapo rta. 
Aveta una lettera per 

me ? 
Batello a vapore. 
Date me — 

Dei pane. 

Del butiro. 

Del suppa. 

Del carne, 

Del sale. 

Del pepe. 

Del moustarda. 

Del vino. 

Uno catello. 

Una forchetta. 

Uno cucchiago. 

Del cafife. 

Del te. 

Del latte. 

Del zucchero. 

Del frutto. 

Del cognac. 

Del carta. 

Del inchiostro. 

Del' acqua. 

Del sapone. 

Del fromaggio. 

Uno pollame. 

Del legumi. 



OR, HOW TO TRAVEL IN THE OLD WORLD. 235 



ENGLISH. 

Give me— 

Some eggs, 

Some beef, 

Some mutton, 

Some fish, 

Some ham, 

A glass. 

A book, 

Some gloves, 

A towel, 

A salad, 
Cue, 
Two, 
Three, 
Four, 
Five, 
Six, 
Seven, 
Eight, 
Nine, 
Ten, 
Eleven, 
Twelve, 
Thirteen, 
Fourteen, 
Fifteen, 
Sixteen, 
Seventeen, 
Eighteen, 
Nineteen, 
Twenty, 

Twenty-one, &c, 
Thirty, 
Forty, 
Sunday, 
Monday, 
Tuesday, 
Wednesday, 
Thursday, 
Friday, 
Saturday, 



FRENCH. 
DONNEE MOI— 

Des oeufs, 

Du boeuf, 

Du mouton, 

Du poi^son, 

Du jambon, 

Une verre, 

Un livre, 

Des gants, 

Un essuie main. 

Un salade. 
Ur, 
Deux, 
Trois, 
Quatre, 
Cinq, 
Six, 
Sept, 
Huit, 
Neuf, 
Dix, 
Onze, 
Douze, 
Treize, 
Quatorze, 
Quinze, 
Seize, 
Dix sept, 
Dix huit, 
Dix neuf, 
Vingt, 
Yingt-un, 
Trente, 
Quarante. 
Dimanche, 
Lundi, 
Mardi, 
Mercredi, 
Jeudi, 
Yendredi, 
Samedi, 



ITALIAN. 

Date me — 

Del uovi. 

Del manzo. 

Del castrato. 

Del pesce. 

Del presciulto. 

Un birchier. 

Un libro. 

Del gwanti. 

Un scingatoio. 

Un salato. 
Uno. 
Due. 
Tre. 

Quattro. 
Cinque. 
Sei. 
Sette. 
Otto. 
None. 
Dieci. 
Undid. 
Dodici. 
Tredici. 
Quattordici. 
Quindici. 
Sedici. 
Dicia sette. 
Dici otto. 
Dicia nove. 
Venti. 
Yentuno. 
Trenta. 
Quaranta. 
Domenica. 
Lunedi. 
Martedi. 
Mercoledi. 
Jovedi. 
Yenerdi, 
Sabato 



INDEX. 



PAGB. 

Aberdeen 211 

Alexandria 169 

Alhambra 203 

Amsterdam 162 

Antwerp 112 

Ascot Races 68 

Athens 173 

Augsburg 153 

Austria 149 

Bangor 31 

Bath 208, 209 

Bavaria 152 

Bayonne 19* 

Belfast 204 

Belgium Ill 

Berlin 184 

Blarney Castle 202 

Birmingham 31 

Bois de Boulogne 101 

Bourbon Museum 137 

Bremen 190 

Brighton 44 

Bristol 208, 209 

Brussels 114 

Cadiz 192 

Cairo 170 



238 INDEX. 

PAGE. 

Cambridge 73 

Campagna 134 

Carlisle 79 

Cashel 20 

Circular Notes 83 

Chambers' Institute 76 

Champs Elysees 100 

Chatsworth 80 

Chester 26 

Clothes 19 

Coblentz 159 

Cologne 160 

Como 124 

Columbus 191 

Cordova 196 

Corneille 87 

Cornwall 210 

Cork , 201 

Constantinople 174 

Costume of a Pedestrian 224 

Cremorne 71 

Crystal Palace 59 

Currency (continental) 110, 133, 137, 192 

Denmark 212 

Derby (Race) 68 

Doge's Palace 146 

Dublin 199 

Dueseldorf 161 

Dresden 187 

Eaton Hall 28 

Edinburg 74 

Expenses of a Trip to Europe 15 

Ferrara 143 

Florence 126 

Fontainebleau 109 

France 82 



INDEX. 239 

PAGE. 

Geneva 121 

Genoa 217 

Gibraltar 197 

Glasgow 78 

Gloucester 208 

Granada 197 

Greenwich 63 

Guttenberg 157 

Hague, the 164 

Hampton Court 65 

Hanover 188 

Havre 85 

Heidelberg 156 

Holland 162 

Hotel Expenses 23 

Hotels of England 23, 26, 27, 32, 37, 41, 42, 45 

u Paris 87 

" Brussels 114 

" Geneva 121 

" Rome 130 

Naples 135 

" Austria 149 

Hotel des Invalides , 97 

Howth, Hill of 200 



Iceland 219 

Isle of ^VYight 43 

Ireland 198 

Irving, Washington 191 

Italv 124 



Joan of Arc 86 

Kenilworth 32 

Killarney 203 

Kremlin, the 179 



240 INDEX. 

PAGE. 

Lakes, the English 79 

Lausanne 122 

Leamington 32 

Letters of Introduction 17 

Limerick 204 

Lisbon 192 

Living, English, Style and Cost of. 23, 48, 49 

Liverpool 22 

Lodgings in London 48 

Lochs Katrine and Lomond 78 

London 47 

Louvre, the 95 

Luxembourg, the 102 

Lyons 120 

Madrid 195 

Malaga 197 

Mallow 203 

Malta 168 

Manchester 25 

Mayence 157 

Marseilles 167 

Melrose 76 

Meeting of the Waters 20 

Milan 125 

Mohilev 178 

Money 14 

Moscow 178 

Munich 153 

Naples 135 

Napoleon's Tomb 98 

Newcastle 74 

Nile, the 172 

Norway 213 

Notre Dame 99 

Odessa 177 



INDEX. 241 

PAGE, 

Opera in Italy ^.^ 128 

Oxford 36 

Paris 87 

Parma 216 

Passports 17, 103 

Peebles 77 

Pedestrians iu England 222 

" in Italy 229 

Pere la Chaise 106 

Place de la Concorde 90 

Place Vendome 92 

Pic-Nics. , 65 

Pompeii 139 

Poor Young Man, Travels of 220 

Posting in Russia 177, 178 

Portugal 191 

Potsdam 186 

Prague. . 218 

Promenades in Paris 89 

Plymouth 210 

Pyramids 171 

Queen 's Darwing-Room 69 

Queen and Court at Ascot 68 

Races, going to 66 

Railway Expenses in England 25 

" in France 120 

14 in Italy 125 

" in Austria 149 

Random Travel 205 

Ravenna 216 

Restaurants of Paris „ 93 

Richmond 66 

Rimini 216 

Rome 130 

Roslin Chapel 77 

11 



242 iNDfcX. 

VJJIU. 

Rouen ...... 86 

Routes 20, 82, 83 

Rubens, Works of 112 

Salisbury , . 211 

Sardinia 216 

Sardinia, Island of 219 

Scotland 73 

Seville 196 ' 

Sicily 218 

Sight-seeing in London 226 

Southampton 41 

Spain 19 

Spanish Dollars ' 192 

Steamers to Antwerp 110 

Stirling 77 

Stratford upon Avon 34 

St. Cloud 107 

St. Peter's at Rome 131 

St. Petersburg 181 

Sunday in London 82 

Sunday in Paris 105 

Sweden 214 

Switzerland 118 

Talavera 195 

Terracina 134 

Travelling in Spain 193 

" in Ireland 190 

Toledo 195 

Trosachs 78 

Theatres of Paris 94 

Thrasimene Lake 128 

Ulm 154 

United Service Museum 52 

Valladolid 195 



INDEX. 243 

PAGE. 

Venice 144 

Versailles . 105 

Vesuvius 133 

Vienna 149 

Vittoria 195 

Wales, North 30 

Warwick Castle 33 

Warsaw , 184 

Waterloo (Field of ) 116 

White-bait Dinners 64 

William Tell 123 

Windsor 38 

Worcester 207 

Zurich 155 









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